Trunk release issues

[Curt]

By the time I came out this evening, the temperature had come up to -2C, and all remote opening works again (both inside button and remote on key). Definitely cold-related, but I'm going to take it to the Service Center and see what they say.

 

[augkuo]

Sometimes the remote doesn't work too well if the 12V aux battery is dying.

 

[wiztecy]

Sometimes the remote doesn't work too well if the 12V aux battery is dying.

True. Same with the remote battery, if temps dip, it won't work as well as on a hot sunny day. And the trunk only unlocks after you release the button, not as you press it. I typically have to press my trunk button a couple of times on occasion for the trunk to open.

 

[Curt]

Sometimes the remote doesn't work too well if the 12V aux battery is dying.

At least that is something I don't have to worry about - I have a 1.5.

 

[Curt]

In the end, my actuator failed completely. After that, I could only open with the key in the lock, and then that failed to work in sub-freezing temperatures. I had to wait three weeks for an appointment at the local Service Center, and now we probably won't see any really cold weather for another 9 months.

On the bright side, they surprised me by installing the Carbon Fiber Door Sills I had ordered.

 

[Curt]

Some more data on this Trunk Release issue - maybe someone else has the same problem.

I never had trunk problems with VIN# 76, but since VIN# 55 has come to live with me on the East Coast, it has been experiencing more extreme weather conditions.

Sure enough, after my Trunk Actuator was replaced in March, we haven't had any more sub-zero temperatures, but last week, when we got to above 35C, I found myself locked out of the trunk again less than 90 days after the last repair.

After some digging around, the Rockville SC guys think that the real problem is that the linkage rod for the Trunk Interior Release Handle is binding up at extreme temperatures and causing excessive wear of the Actuator.

For the moment, the rod is removed (I guess I need to be extra careful that nobody gets locked in the trunk ) so we can see if the problems go away.

If this is the cause of my issue, it might be for some of you, as well.

 

[ML Auto]

The stock actuator is way underpowered. They come with as little as 4 lbs of force all the way up to 12 lbs. Not sure what Tesla used. I used a little bigger one with 17 lbs of force and all my problems are gone.

 

[slcasner]

After some digging around, the Rockville SC guys think that the real problem is that the linkage rod for the Trunk Interior Release Handle is binding up at extreme temperatures and causing excessive wear of the Actuator.

For the moment, the rod is removed (I guess I need to be extra careful that nobody gets locked in the trunk ) so we can see if the problems go away.

Martin thought it was ridiculous that they had to put in that interior trunk release. He showed me that you can flip the handle around to save a little bit of space. But just removing the rod and handle seems like a fine idea.

 

[wiztecy]

Yes, that interior "child stuck in trunk" release mechanism I've found earlier to bind things up with that overly complicated lever system they've got going in there. Multiple friction points, turns, and pivot points that also cause minor binding. Just be aware when you remove that pull latch that it was mandated by the Federal Vehicle Safety Standards:
Federal Register | Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards; Interior Trunk Release

But like all gov't entities sometimes it makes the problem worse, such as now if the kid gets locked in the Roadster's trunk, the trunk will never open and now you'll need to drive to the service center with the kid in the trunk ...or start pulling wheels and fender cowls.

After my actuator dust boot deteriorated on my trunk actuator I removed the boot, cleaned the seized actuator since it got water and grime in there, to get it functioning again, and properly adjusted both trunk release cables. No issues whatsoever and I agree with MAUTO that the actuator is quite underspec'd.

 

[wiztecy]

I finally installed one of those inexpensive actuators I scored from Amazon, works as good as new from the factory. The factory actuator finally seized after a year running it without a boot. I haven't driven the Roadster in a couple of months so it just got bound up without the rubber boot on the rod.

Also my driver's side cable disconnected from the latch system. I ended up removing the latch, but the latch doesn't clear the latch mount on the CF box. Jiggling it finally released the latch. But if you have a mirror you just need to pull outward on where the cable was hooked. Hard to tell if you didn't see it work before. End of story, you at least can get into your trunk if the latch system works. If the mechanism for the latch fails you'll have to start cutting stuff.

Quick note, if that actuator is seized your key won''t turn and the trunk will not open.

TIP: When taking or pulling the washers off the rear tail-light assembly, three mounting points, use a small screwdriver to be the pilot so that the washer slides over the screwdriver when taking off from the threaded bolt and opposite when installing. You can and will loose hardware if you don't do that, they don't stick to the magnet and will drop.

 

[dhrivnak]

Well Houston I too now have a problem. I can't open it and the tools to remove the rear tires are in the trunk. I do not know of a Roadster owner, or service center within 200 miles. Does anyone have any ideas?

I was having an occasional issue in that about 1/3 the time I had to try and open twice, but it always opened on the second attempt. But I was out of town for a month and when I tried to open the trunk nothing. No familiar clunk. I tried the key and I thought we rotated counter clockwise to open and the key will not move at all. I can turn about 1/6 of a turn clockwise but it does nothing and does not feel right.

I am thinking my best bet is to buy a second set of wheel tools and try to work it myself as the service center is a very long day of 200 miles there, 4 hours charging, assuming they can fix it then and then 200 miles back home. But at this point I am open to any or all suggestions.

PS I have tried a dozen times throughout the day and even after a 60 mile drive that I hoped would free up a possible jam, with no luck.

 

[ML Auto]

Sometimes you can get the actuator to activate if you pound on the tail light by the key lock while pressing the dash release button.

Otherwise find an auto parts store that has "tuner" style lug nuts with the same 10 spline size. (O'Reillys carries a set with the tool).

 

[dhrivnak]

Sometimes you can get the actuator to activate if you pound on the tail light by the key lock while pressing the dash release button.

Otherwise find an auto parts store that has "tuner" style lug nuts with the same 10 spline size. (O'Reillys carries a set with the tool).

Thanks and my bigger concern is the lock nuts. I am not sure of a local source for those. I did try to pounding with the key but will try the dash. I do hear a very faint click so I think it is trying to work.

 

[Msjulie]

After just a couple of weeks I went to Tesla to get 4 non-locking bolts; the locking ones were fragged just enough to make me nervous and the tool itself wasn't quite round anymore on the other rim which means it was crapping the wheel. I feel less worried now that it's just the unusual lug bolts holding it on, not them and an iffy locking bolt.. but that's me

 

[wiztecy]

Thanks and my bigger concern is the lock nuts. I am not sure of a local source for those. I did try to pounding with the key but will try the dash. I do hear a very faint click so I think it is trying to work.

If you jack the car up, you might be able to get access to what you need behind the rear wheel. Just be careful and in particular with the driver's side latch/cable mating area as I described earlier in my post. And remember you'll need to repeat these steps on the other side. The key here is to find the cable by the locking latch and pull it straight out with with the run of the cable inside. Don't pull side to side. Yes, the demise of the stupid lock lugs hence another reason why its good to replace all of those out with the standard hex bolt.

When my truck seized up I found toggling the trunk release from the inside cabin trunk release button worked many times to break it loose. I too could hear the actuator trying to work. Just keep tapping the button fast, try different speeds / patterns and you might get lucky. For some reason the inside button must have cause the actuator to work harder. Don't ask me why, you'd think they'd be connected to the same trigger points.

 

[ML Auto]

If you hear it trying to release, then push down on each side of the trunk to relieve some of the tension on the latches while rapidly pushing the inside release. Each push sends just one single pulse to the actuator, so the dash button works better. Pounding by both latches might help, but if your problem is rust and dirt by the linkage and cables, it's hard to get any vibrations there to loosen them up, as they are attached to the inside of the trunk.

 

[dhrivnak]

Success!! I found out one can remove the fender liners with the wheels still on. Tight but not particularly difficult. I then used a small screw driver to encourage the black cable and guide out of the white latch release so one could then pull the cable to release the latch. Then with the trunk open I was able to remove the tail light. There are three 8MM bolts (and fender washers so have a magnet handy, behind the rubber knock outs. Then the latch mechanism is attached with the 3 silver allen screws seen at the bottom. There is also a screw behind the trunk release. Don't remove the black Torx screws.

My problem was the electric actuator was frozen up. As you can see the boot deteriorated and water had gotten inside.

I was able to remove the actuator and with some silicone spray was able to get it working. Either get a new one from Tesla <$50 or use Wiztecy's link for Amazon. I tried Advanced, O'Riley's and NAPA with no luck. But I did find Advanced did have a 2008 Roadster in their system and they sell the wheel TPMS sensors for $99 or less than half what I gave to Telsa. With the 1.5 just drive 20 miles with the new sensors to program the system, but I digressed.

Since I did not have the new part yet I fashioned a boot out of duct tape and put it back in. New actuators are on their way for what I hope to be a permanent fix. Thanks Wiztecy as I doubt I could have completed the task without your initial pictures.

 

[dhrivnak]

I met a new owner Rob with a very Orange Roadster with a stuck trunk. Thanks to the information in this thread he now has a working trunk. Only 80 miles away I am not alone

 

[PV-EV]

I used the info in this thread and from dhrivnak to release my stuck trunk and replace the actuator with the ones wiztecy recommended. All is working perfectly now. Total cost about $10 and 3 hrs.

 

[Gabner]

I'm having a similar issue here.

Trunk problem, one side won't open, the other won't close.