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Turn Signal Fault

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My reply got buried in your post, sorry.

And thanks for your help. I will definitely continue to push back especially if I can capture the error on video with the dascham unplugged. Shouldn't be too hard to capture as the error crops up within the first few minutes of a drive.

Also if I didn't live within a couple miles of a SC I would also be much more aggressive on this but it is fairly easy for me to be able to drop off my car.
 
And thanks for your help. I will definitely continue to push back especially if I can capture the error on video with the dascham unplugged. Shouldn't be too hard to capture as the error crops up within the first few minutes of a drive.

Also if I didn't live within a couple miles of a SC I would also be much more aggressive on this but it is fairly easy for me to be able to drop off my car.
I have exactly the same problem with my S75D / built 08/2019... I am currently on version 2020.32.3 but had the same problem on previous versions as well. It happens randomly but all lights and indicator are fine.
BTW I had both headlights changed (under warranty) but not because of the indicator fault... it was because of the LED running light turning yellow'ish'... but even after the headlights were changed I had the indicator error again yesterday... So it is not the headlights....
I haven't reported that yet to the Tesla SC yet but I might do this soon... I would be still interested if you have more information on your 'case'?
 
I have exactly the same problem with my S75D / built 08/2019... I am currently on version 2020.32.3 but had the same problem on previous versions as well. It happens randomly but all lights and indicator are fine.
BTW I had both headlights changed (under warranty) but not because of the indicator fault... it was because of the LED running light turning yellow'ish'... but even after the headlights were changed I had the indicator error again yesterday... So it is not the headlights....
I haven't reported that yet to the Tesla SC yet but I might do this soon... I would be still interested if you have more information on your 'case'?

I left my dashcam unplugged to see if the problem ever came back and it didn't. I went ahead and resecured the connection for my dashcam to make sure there wasnt a loose connection or a ground in my home wiring causing the problem and while I did see the problem once more randomly, I have not had a repeated issue like I was previously having. My dashcam has been running now for months without the fault coming back.

So if you have a dashcam installed through the spare connector in the microphone grille, I would verify that everything is clean as it turns out this may be on the same circuit and causing the fault.
 
The SC just called me and told me it was because I was using a dashcam that tapped off the windshield break sensor in the microphone grille and that I would have to pay for a fix (even though under warranty).

I told them that doesn't make any sense because I have had the dashcam for years and the issue only cropped up a month ago. AND that I was like many others who install a dashcam that way and I haven't seen anyone else with the issue. They said that the sensor uses the same electrical circuit as the turn signals and that was their conclusion for the problem based on recent firmware updates that may cause it to do this. I said I would have expected others to have seen the same problem if that was the case.

Anyway, I am taking the car back home today and plan to do my own testing with video. I am hoping I can prove that the problem does appear with the dashcam unplugged (which they said it doesn't) and then may have to bring it a back a 5th time to compel them to fix under warranty.
Look in the user manual, the power in microphone grill is for optional alarm motion system (initially available only in Europe, but a retrofit kit sold at one point in the USA). There is a dedicated fuse for it. Easy way to prove if it affects turns signals, pull the fuse, show the dashcam is dead, and see if turn signals are still working - if they are, they are not on the same circuit.

PS> I have 2015 and 2018 MS (and had a 2017 too) with dashcams running 24/7 from the microphone grill, never encountered this problem.
 
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Just a warning for people that tries to install and pull power from existing wiring in the car... just don't. I had the digital license plate installed by their certified installer, and he tapped into existing wiring, and it caused my rear driver side window to stop functioning altogether. I didn't even know that it was caused by that until I took it into service center, and they uncovered the problem. Once they took off the wiring, window became fully operational again. I ended up having to pay for the diagnostic fee for two hours, which totally sucks.

The installer claims that he has done it this way for other S' no problem, which to be honest, I don't know what to believe. Having said that, just doing it right, and run the wiring to the battery. Safest to do so apparently.
 
Just a warning for people that tries to install and pull power from existing wiring in the car... just don't. I had the digital license plate installed by their certified installer, and he tapped into existing wiring, and it caused my rear driver side window to stop functioning altogether. I didn't even know that it was caused by that until I took it into service center, and they uncovered the problem. Once they took off the wiring, window became fully operational again. I ended up having to pay for the diagnostic fee for two hours, which totally sucks.

The installer claims that he has done it this way for other S' no problem, which to be honest, I don't know what to believe. Having said that, just doing it right, and run the wiring to the battery. Safest to do so apparently.
Unless you know your car electronics well, going straight to the battery (through a new fuse of course) is always the safe bet. That's why some of the higher end 3rd party car equipment which requires switched 12V, provide 2 inputs, one for power straight from the battery (with its own fuse), and one for switched 12V which draws microscopic current, which drives a transistor which turns power on/off from the battery supply input.

Unfortunately a lot of older cars did not have many electronics/computers, so some installers got used to the fact that if they found 12V anywhere, they can just connect to it. An installer "certified" by the digital license plate distributor doesn't mean certified by Tesla, HOWEVER, if it's a reputable distributor, they might warranty their installations by their certified installers, therefore you might be able to get them to cover part or all of the Tesla bill to fix what the installer did.
 
Unless you know your car electronics well, going straight to the battery (through a new fuse of course) is always the safe bet. That's why some of the higher end 3rd party car equipment which requires switched 12V, provide 2 inputs, one for power straight from the battery (with its own fuse), and one for switched 12V which draws microscopic current, which drives a transistor which turns power on/off from the battery supply input.

Unfortunately a lot of older cars did not have many electronics/computers, so some installers got used to the fact that if they found 12V anywhere, they can just connect to it. An installer "certified" by the digital license plate distributor doesn't mean certified by Tesla, HOWEVER, if it's a reputable distributor, they might warranty their installations by their certified installers, therefore you might be able to get them to cover part or all of the Tesla bill to fix what the installer did.

Yah, the installer has agreed to reimburse me, he's suppose to pay me back next week, so let's see if he does. Otherwise I'll have to take it up with the company and have them resolve it.
 
Good morning all, I just ran across this thread and I have the exact same issue. Turn signal fault, once for each signal the first time it is used turn my drive. It appear to happen more often in cooler weather, 50 or below and while driving. I tried to duplicate the issue immediately after getting in the car and it would not repeat. However if I have driven for about a min or two and then use the signals it will occur.

It has been to the sc twice. First time they replaced the steering console stalk and the issue returned a couple days later.

Now they are trying to get it to occur for them. Not sure what it will tell them. I already have the fault on video.

Anyway, has anyone who has reported the problem, had it resolved?

BTW 2018 MS 75D 2020.48.10
 
For me, the problem mostly went away completely when I left my dashcam unplugged for a bit and reseated all the connections to ensure I didn't have a ground or anything. I have since reconnected my dashcam and I still once in a rare while get it, but so far it hasn't actually affected any functionality of the turn signals.

My SC was never able to duplicate the fault and they think it was because it is standard practice for them to disconnect the dashcam when they take a vehicle in. Is your SC able to duplicate the problem? It was happening every single drive for me so we originally couldn't figure out why I was getting it but they weren't. Even though they could verify it was happening in the vehicle logs.
 
The saga continues...

Brought the car in for the 3rd time and this time they replaced the left front headlamp. Said that since the left and right signal were on the same circuit and they think the headlamp was the problem, this should fix the fault I was getting on both. Any takers on what happened next?

Few days later, the fault is back. Replaced FBC and left headlamp did nothing to resolve. Now scheduled for my 4th visit to the SC for this issue. Really starting to get frustrated.
lemon law time....hahahaha
 
No, the SC has not been able to duplicate the issue. It does not happen every time so i am not surprised. It does happen pretty often though. Especially when it is cold.

I will check the connections in the mic grill area just to make sure something is not loose. I also have a thumb drive inserted in the USB port in the console for the Tesla dashcam. I wonder if that could be the issue.

Thanks for the reply.
 
No, the SC has not been able to duplicate the issue. It does not happen every time so i am not surprised. It does happen pretty often though. Especially when it is cold.

I will check the connections in the mic grill area just to make sure something is not loose. I also have a thumb drive inserted in the USB port in the console for the Tesla dashcam. I wonder if that could be the issue.

Thanks for the reply.


If it was something enough people were doing, I would think the problem would be more pervasive and you would see more on the forum about it. That's what always confused me about the story the SC was giving me. That my dashcam being plugged into the window break sensor was the problem and that a software update likely caught up with me. But my retort was that if that were the case, I would still expect to see many more who did the same thing on this forum come forward with the same issue.

It was more likely that while the circuit was the same and the fault originated in a ground or some other connection problem I had, that it was my own wiring error that was causing the problem.

Sounds like while your issue may not be related to a faulty dashcam wiring (since you don't have one), there is probably still some ground in that same circuit causing the fault to come up periodically the same way it did for me.
 
My 2020 M3 dual motor (6K miles) displayed turn signal light fault three days ago. I noticed that the right turn light stays up at all time, .e. even when the car is locked and parked. I got an mobile service appointment for next week (12/29) but in the meantime, as the windshield washer fluid is empty/low, I drove to the nearby Tesla Service Center to ask them what kind of fluid I need to use. There, got a free refill of the windshield washer fluid and, miraculously, the turn signal sign fault went away by itself! I now wonder if there is any correlation between these 2 events!
 
Hello All,

So, I also have a 2017 December MS. Last July I upgraded my MCU and got the HW3, about two weeks later I also received Turn Signal Light Fault. Now for the last year I have taken the car in just finished the 5th appointment last week. Picked the car you on Thursday and they replaced all the headlights and signals. By Saturday the error was happening again.

I don’t know what to do I am so over this issue. Is it now time for Lemon Law? I’m tired of not having a car for a week taking time off work to get or pickup.

Did you ever get it resolved?
 

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Hello All,

So, I also have a 2017 December MS. Last July I upgraded my MCU and got the HW3, about two weeks later I also received Turn Signal Light Fault. Now for the last year I have taken the car in just finished the 5th appointment last week. Picked the car you on Thursday and they replaced all the headlights and signals. By Saturday the error was happening again.

I don’t know what to do I am so over this issue. Is it now time for Lemon Law? I’m tired of not having a car for a week taking time off work to get or pickup.

Did you ever get it resolved?
Nope, not resolved for me. SC said it was a known issue and they Tesla, would fix it at some point with a software upgrade. It seems to be happening even more frequently with me now. Moisture still seems to be the common thread for my issue.

I am not wild about the response for sure…… I will probably start to engage the SC in the near future to see if they have any resolutions.
 
Hello All,

So, I also have a 2017 December MS. Last July I upgraded my MCU and got the HW3, about two weeks later I also received Turn Signal Light Fault. Now for the last year I have taken the car in just finished the 5th appointment last week. Picked the car you on Thursday and they replaced all the headlights and signals. By Saturday the error was happening again.

I don’t know what to do I am so over this issue. Is it now time for Lemon Law? I’m tired of not having a car for a week taking time off work to get or pickup.

Did you ever get it resolved?

Do you have any actual turn signal issues or just the warning? When I was getting the warning, I didn't have much, if any, actual turn signal issues. So they were a bit blind as to what the problem was.

Do you have any third party dashcams or anything else tapping the glass break sensor in the microphone grill?