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U-Joint Problems

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Just want to update, at about 8 months since I made that video and used PTFE Lube. No sticking steering or any issues at all yet. Made it through a Wisconsin Winter, numerous carwashes and still going good with no re-application of PTFE Lube When I rotate tires the next time end of July, I'll take a closer look, and will likely give it a quick booster spray. From what I can see though, No grime is stuck on the parts. Using regular grease will attract and keep road grime trapped, where as the PTFE not much for it to stick to.
 
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I have a late model 2015 S and have the same issue. I pulled it apart yesterday and noticed mine had a dustcap on it protecting some already existing bearing grease. Was yours covered? Or was it like the X. Regreasing mine seemed to have no affect but will give it another try tomorrow.
My pre-refresh 2015 had no protection (apart from the undertray). I did the 2016 refresh and it's a tougher job, but no cover. I'd say if you aren't sure what's the U-joint, steer the wheel to be sure you see the assembly rotate. No extra tools, and can still see it from the brake fluid reservoir. Just more odd bits in the way, which make getting hands down there harder/impossible. So, I used a long thin rod with a Q-tip at the end. That got the bearing grease on it and then taping a garden variety plastic zip-tie to the end of the rod made it easier to blade the grease throughout.

The complaint was the same, and with front end suspended you could easily feel the steering wheel getting hung up 2-3 times through each lock-to-lock (about 2.25 full turns). Not as bad as mine was, but went away after carefully going 90 degrees at a time, to grease it, then about 20-30 times full lock to lock.

I get the grease will pick up dirt, but won't mind going back if needed. 2nd time was 1-1.5hr. It's really working the grease in, that takes time. Bearing grease doesn't penetrate easily, but doesn't wash off. Maybe dry lube next time.
 
As I was pulling out of my driveway, I experienced a similar problem as someone in this thread. The steering feels "loose" then "tight" depending on the angle of how I'm turning the steering wheel. It's almost as if the steering is sticking in certain places. I thought maybe I'm imagining it, but it's day 2, and the steering is definitely not normal.

My car is a 2015 70D with 64k mlies on it. I had the steering recall performed by Tesla (where they put in the 5 steel bolts) in July @ 60k miles.

Before they performed the recall, everything was perfect. Due to it being 4k miles and 3 months after the recall, I'm hesitant to assume the recall had anything to do with my current issues, but I guess anything is possible. Anyone else have steering problems AFTER doing the recall?


I'm going to take out the frunk liner and take a look, how can I tell that the bolts are different than the original ones and is this something I can fix on my own? I assume if I bring to Tesla, they'll just want to put in a new steering rack for $2,500+?
My 2016 75D w/Facelift with 62k miles, had the exact same symptoms. Tesla replaced the "Steering I-Shaft Link Lower (1060802-00-B) under my ESA.
 
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Just bought a 2013 tesla model s with 150k miles. Steering felt odd and I read up on what others were having issues with, so I pulled out the frunk and ordered a new/used ujoint (after seeing all of the rust of course). Since I hate doing things twice I put a boot on mine, filled it with synthetic grease and sealed the ends - one with CA glue and a zip tie, the other with black rtv. I measured the steering damper diameter and found the following fit well: 68mm Black Rear Rubber Fork Cover Gaiter Gator Boot For Harley Tri Glide
After removing the steering damper I attempted to move the ujoint and it wouldn't budge. The newer joint was easy to move and smooth in two directions.


So I'll be the first to say... 'Hey Elon' , $10 fix to prevent the Tesla steering issue. They really should have put something like this on the damper/joint to begin with. Probably wouldn't even need much grease in there if it was protected.
 

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Hey folks - 2017 MX and just started experiencing symptoms described here of steering feeling very heavy at certain points. How can I quickly visually inspect the ujoint? Do I have to take driver side tire off or can I drive it up on rhino ramps and look from underneath? Trying to avoid taking anything apart to inspect - Thx!
 
This should be reported here: Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA

My model X 2017 has it at just over four years and it’s a scary problem to discover out on the road.
I don't understand the use of scary or discover in this context. My understanding is the issue is a progressively worsening stiff spot in the steering wheel rotation.
The power steering motor bolt or broken control arm issues occur suddenly, but more often begin at low speed manuvering like a parking lot.
 
I don't understand the use of scary or discover in this context. My understanding is the issue is a progressively worsening stiff spot in the steering wheel rotation.
The power steering motor bolt or broken control arm issues occur suddenly, but more often begin at low speed manuvering like a parking lot.
For us, it went from fine to wildly inconsistent with no notice. The only thing speed does, generally, is limit what an anticipated turn would expect. A zero to thirty left turn across traffic is super common where I live and not having a consistent turn force needed to exit that turn is terrifying like a clown car carnival ride.
 
I don't understand the use of scary or discover in this context. My understanding is the issue is a progressively worsening stiff spot in the steering wheel rotation.
The power steering motor bolt or broken control arm issues occur suddenly, but more often begin at low speed manuvering like a parking lot.
Mine went from totally smooth to truly awful in five minutes of driving. It was not a progressive change. It's possible I have a different related issue though, even though the description of this one sounds spot-on symptom wise. We'll see what Tesla says. It's under the ESA anyway so it's costing me the same amount regardless, the deductible.
 
Mine went from totally smooth to truly awful in five minutes of driving. It was not a progressive change. It's possible I have a different related issue though, even though the description of this one sounds spot-on symptom wise. We'll see what Tesla says. It's under the ESA anyway so it's costing me the same amount regardless, the deductible.
Interesting, please do update us with the diagnosis.
 
Diagnosis was that the intermediate shaft was 'seized' per technician notes. Pretty surprising that it went from totally fine to seized and almost impossible to steer much off center within just a few minutes of driving, possibly even suddenly. I'm going to put in a complaint with the NHTSA. This seems like a safety issue. If it's common enough it should be a recall, or at least a free repair.
 
Diagnosis was that the intermediate shaft was 'seized' per technician notes. Pretty surprising that it went from totally fine to seized and almost impossible to steer much off center within just a few minutes of driving, possibly even suddenly. I'm going to put in a complaint with the NHTSA. This seems like a safety issue. If it's common enough it should be a recall, or at least a free repair.
I agree 100%. Before making the video I did, and showing how to clean and lubricate it, it was to the point where my Autopilot wouldn't work, as it thought I was holding the wheel preventing Autopilot from operating (Human Takeover). Actually, this could be a MAJOR safety issue, as if Autopilot was working, it might have thought in an emergency situation, I was ready to take over when in fact I may not have been.
 
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My X (with 78k miles) started experiencing the issues in this thread (it was very hard to turn through areas of the steering wheel's travel, like 90 degrees apart, it went from a little extra pressure being required to being almost impossible in a couple days). I scheduled an appointment to have Tesla look at it, but since that's a month out, I pulled off the tire and sprayed the U-Joint with WD40 followed by a lithium grease, and now turning is back to being smooth.

I know that might not be good as a long-term lubricant for this applicaiton, but I'm going to go ahead and have them replace it in a month, the quote is about $500, and since it already looks rusty I don't want to risk it failing spectacularly down the line. But, this thread did help me with keeping it on the road for the next month until that happens.
 
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Coming back, now as 1-2 degrees free play at steering wheel. Good to see $400-500 for what looks like somewhat of a job:
discovered on YouTube. Not many views, or aware of whether the manual was referenced. Not sure the video covered pulling the emergency loop, either, but you don't want to energize the airbag the wrong way. I found it helpful in evaluating whether to DIY, though.

Ours firmed in the mornings, after a previous day's moisture, never worsening once on road. One way to accelerate the temporary fix (WD40 and/or lithium spray) or medium term fix (packing with bearing grease), is to jack the front end making it easier to work it in, going lock to lock.
 
Coming back, now as 1-2 degrees free play at steering wheel. Good to see $400-500 for what looks like somewhat of a job:
discovered on YouTube. Not many views, or aware of whether the manual was referenced. Not sure the video covered pulling the emergency loop, either, but you don't want to energize the airbag the wrong way. I found it helpful in evaluating whether to DIY, though.

Ours firmed in the mornings, after a previous day's moisture, never worsening once on road. One way to accelerate the temporary fix (WD40 and/or lithium spray) or medium term fix (packing with bearing grease), is to jack the front end making it easier to work it in, going lock to lock.
I couldn’t get a lubricant fix to last more than about a week. Also did the jack + fill wheel motion to try and get it in there as thoroughly as possible. In the end, I managed to persuade my local Tesla Service to comp the work. I also filed a NHTSB report as it’s a huge safety risk