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Ugh. Tesla Service takes another notch downhill.

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gregd

Active Member
Dec 31, 2014
2,715
1,916
CM98
Hi folks,

My car's due for its "annual" service, last done in 2019. 2020 was mostly a non-driving year, thanks to the pandemic and a failed PEM Fan connector; 2021 wasn't much more. But, over the past few months, the 1115 and 1116 alerts (motor temperature-related warnings) have become frequent in the logs as the weather warms, a clear sign that the motor fins are getting plugged. Time to bite the bullet and get the car serviced.

I stopped by the Service Center (since you can't contact them without the proverbial app) and made an appointment, noting that I really need the service to be done in a day, and that I needed to talk to the Tech about the fan connector fix that I did (so they wouldn't reverse the fix!). That service was set for tomorrow as I write this. It no longer is.

I got a call back from someone at the SC asking if I wanted to also do a wheel alignment, brake flush, replace the transmission fluid, and I think something else. What? After a short discussion, she also revealed that they are down to only one Roadster-qualified tech (someone I had not worked with before), and that he was working on other cars at the same time. Due to all this, the service visit was going to take between a week to a week and a half to complete. I later got the emailed estimate of over $1,800 for the service. (This is normally under $700.)

After some more discussion, I canceled the appointment. This should be a 4 hour job, perhaps a bit longer if they really need to do some of the other stuff. I'm making an appointment for service, not for them to park the car and get around to it when they have an otherwise spare moment. The last service, also done during the summer, was delayed and they left the car outside in the 100+ sun over a weekend, letting the battery temp rise to around 40C according to the OVMS before I called them (via the Sales dept) and told them to get the car indoors and on a charger to cool the battery! Prior recent service events resulted in other issues. They simply aren't treating these cars the way they need to be treated.

SO... Two questions:

1. The car has about 57K miles on the odometer. What, if any, of those add-ons are actually needed? The A/C system was last refilled back in 2018, I think. Other than the motor temp alerts, and a general rise in motor / PEM temps, everything seems to be working fine.

2. Considering doing the PEM and motor clean-out myself. I've read through the thread on doing this, and watched the videos. I think I get the overall procedure, but wonder what trouble I might be in for. Not documented, for example, is whether I need to pull the main disconnect, or simply disable the APS from the VDS. I'm hoping the disable is sufficient. I have wrenches and such, and a shop vac, but don't have any compressed air. Do I need to get a compressor? I do have car ramps, a legacy of the PEM connector fix which I was able to do without removing the PEM itself. Do I need to get under the car, or is this strictly a top-access process? What else do I need to know?

There is another (brand new) service center that's farther away, but no idea about their Roadster expertise, and I can't simply stop by for a chat. What other options do I have? Do I do this myself or is it worth the week+ of stress that it will inflict on both me and the car by taking it to the SC?
 
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We have a little over 59k on our Roadie and we had her in last year for it's 10 year service. This is what they did and it took about a week:
- Transmission (Gearbox) Fluid R/R
- Vented Transmission Plug replace
- Wiper Blade (as usual annually)
- PEM & Motor Fans Clean
- ESS Bleed Test Procedure
- Suspension Adjustment F/R

Totals
Parts - $235
Labor - $551

Total + Tax - $805
****************************
About a month later I had them do the following because they suggested the Brake service and the HVAC wasn't working correctly. This took about ten days, mostly for diagnosis of the HVAC system:
- R/R Rear TXV Valves O-rings and then Vacuum/Test/Refill HVAC
- Bleed/Flush Brake system

Totals all Labor - $693

We take our car to the Reno SC. We have known all (or most of them) of the techs for at least six or seven years. Because of that history & trust, I usually follow their suggestions/recommendations.

You can pick up some of those brake fluid test strips at any auto-parts store.

I would pull the disconnect if I was doing the cleaning because I'm a wimp when around that much power. Removal of the PEM is a two person top access process. I believe the SC uses an air compressor to blow it out. It's also useful in blowing out the motor fins.
 
I don’t get my annual done at Tesla anymore but here in the Northeast we have a good alternative. A former Roadster tech along with a former parts guy from Tesla Watertown opened their own shop. Do you have anything like that nearby?

I do almost everything myself except for the fluids, AC, and wheel alignment. It’s probably possible to find a good local shop that can do those remaining things.

Not documented, for example, is whether I need to pull the main disconnect, or simply disable the APS from the VDS. I'm hoping the disable is sufficient. …
I only disable the APS on the diag screen which will happen automatically when you open the cover on the PEM. Having said that, if you really want to have an extra level of safety, pull the main disconnect but you technically don’t need to. Roll your windows down before doing either.

You need compressed air to clean out the cooling channels on the bottom of the PEM. You need a shop vac to clean out the motor fins. Be sure to blow or suck the air in the opposite direction than it goes when cooling.
 
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….
I only disable the APS on the diag screen which will happen automatically when you open the cover on the PEM. Having said that, if you really want to have an extra level of safety, pull the main disconnect but you technically don’t need to. ….
Do you know If there’s a difference on daily “vampire drain” on the ESS with ONLY inhibiting APS vs BOTH inhibiting APS AND pulling the main disconnect?

I’m thinking this info would helpful and critical for anyone shipping a car during this time of shipping logistic nightmare.
 
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So, except for the more than 2x price difference between what the local SC quoted me and what Bob paid just over the hill, it sounds like the SC's recommended additional service is generally expected at this point in the car's life. Both the items listed and timeline. Hmmpf.

Given that the cleaning of the PEM and motor needs to be done often, and soon, I'm thinking I should do that part myself now as a longer-term personal capability. Getting more independent of Tesla's (lack of) service is probably a good idea. I mostly don't want to pull the ESS disconnect if I don't have to because they're reportedly pretty fragile, hard to get to, and difficult to replace if broken.

Then perhaps in the Fall when the weather is cooler take it in for some of the remaining Tesla-only items (mainly the fluids and A/C). I could certainly do the brake fluid myself; I don't think it was done when I upgraded the brakes with the new rotors and pads at a local shop that I trust. Maybe have Tesla do the wheel alignment, though the tire wear is even and the car doesn't pull to one side or the other. It does wander a bit more than I'd like, so perhaps the alignment (toe-in, right?) is needed for that?

My reason for delaying the rest of the items is that the SC's lack of respect for keeping the car indoors is too stressful in the Summer's heat, both on the car and me watching it cook on the OVMS.

I have no idea why the price is so different between here and NV... Is pricing that location sensitive? I thought there were standard hours for all car maintenance, no? Is the hourly rate 2x different?
 
Luckily the Tyco SC has three Roadster technicians. They rotate them (Rockville, Tyco and forget the other location) around the DC metro area to fix our cars. I'm so grateful. Carl has the car now doing the works to it :- P
 
Quick follow-up. For a first-time effort, the removal of the PEM and clearing of the debris took pretty much the entire day. That included a lot of one-at-a-time gathering of tools, an unscheduled run to the auto parts store for a skinnier 7mm socket to remove the cable clamp on the back side of the PEM, and more than a little swearing at Molex for their poorly designed connector latches. I expect I can do the cleaning quicker next time. It's definitely a two-person job, preferably including someone with skinny arms.

I haven't gone for a drive yet, but there were a lot of leaves and small twigs packed into the motor fins. That should explain the 1115 and 1116 alerts (motor sensor temp warning) that have been frequently seen on hot days. Oddly, the PEM itself was pretty clean, with just a bit of dust and essentially no debris. Perhaps related, the duct that cools it was barely connected to the plastic adapter on the underside. I don't know if it was leaking, but that's a possibility, though the PEM hasn't been running unusually hot. The duct has been reconnected, with a double row of zip ties; I probably should have used some duct tape on it as well.

I also found that three of the six screws that hold the PEM to the car (all three on the passenger side) were only inserted finger-tight, as was the screw holding the coolant tank. Interesting that they've been this way since the prior Annual Service back in 2019. {sigh}

I've added some additional screening to the under-car blower assembly to block more of the larger leaves and twigs that were found in the motor. This is in addition to the window screening that I added 2 years ago which covered most of the fan intakes, but which had some large gaps. They can be seen by looking in through the wheel wells, so can be monitored for accumulation. Hopefully I won't have to do this again for a few years.

I'll check again with the SC in the fall to see if they quote me something reasonable for some of the remaining "10 year" items.
 
Well, I spoke too soon. Took a drive in the 102F ambient, and the 1115 / 1116 alerts remain. in fact, the overall temps haven't changed much at all.

Any thoughts on the cause? They were frequent some years ago and an annual service (back when they were well done) resolved it. I don't know what they did, if anything, to address that specific issue.

Possibly related, a worry... My cleaning of the motor fins was done by opening the shroud around the upstream side, and holding a shop vac hose there while blowing in from the other side with a compressor air gun. The worry is that perhaps I've pushed some of the gunk from the lower fins back down into the duct from the blower, which has now been push back up to the motor's fins. Without taking off the blower unit (which I understand is not normally done during a service), how does one get all the gunk out?