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By the way,
I wonder if anyone noticed:
Now, on the account page, you can see that it says:
2022 Tesla Model 3
this would also hint the 2022 spec
I sense a man who is about to hit those man maths spreadsheets hard!Any estimates for residuals on the rwd vs lr? If the LR holds a reasonable amount of its price delta then while it’ll cost more, I’ll get some of that back when I sell, so may help justify
Plus mitigation from degradation, selling used into a market with generally longer range cars, oh plus it can drive further
No it wasn't. This is the screenshot I took when placing my order on 27th November...View attachment 756720
Good spot! I can't remember if it was always "2022" but guessing it's just derived from the VIN
Difficult to predict. The LR is the best seller, which means there will be more coming up for sale driving down the price. The RWD is also the cheapest way to get a Tesla so they seem to hold their value quite well.Any estimates for residuals on the rwd vs lr? If the LR holds a reasonable amount of its price delta then while it’ll cost more, I’ll get some of that back when I sell, so may help justify
In the back of Whatcar magazine it says retained value at 3yrs/36k miles is 57% for RWD, 60% for LR and 61% for Performance.Any estimates for residuals on the rwd vs lr?
This is one of the reasons why I like buying cars cash (or with an unsecured loan if I didn't have the cash available), you're not tied in for a set period of time. I will keep an eye on the resale value of my Tesla and the battery degradation regularly, and if either start heading too quickly in the wrong direction I'll sell up before I've lost too much. Harder to do with PCP.In the back of Whatcar magazine it says retained value at 3yrs/36k miles is 57% for RWD, 60% for LR and 61% for Performance.
The Performance makes no financial sense, unless you compare it with something like a M3, Giulia QF or C63. Depreciation is offset by lower running costs. The RWD is probably the safest place to put your money, particularly with the longevity of the LFP battery.
It's unusual, but I am the same. I did buy my first ever car on PCP last year (an Aygo) but the 28% discount and 0% finance made this the cheapest total cost of ownership. If only Tesla did similar deals!This is one of the reasons why I like buying cars cash.
Same again. I might need 100% a handful of times a year but the daily charge level is more than enough for me to last a couple of weeks. With the ambient temperatures we have in the UK battery degradation due to ageing is pretty flat, around 5%, from 60% to 90% storage SoC. If one was to obsess about degradation then the battery should not be charged above 55%!On the other hand, I doubt I'll ever charge my Tesla to 100%, and it'll be rare that I'll charge it above 80%.
Does any car really make financial sense (other than investment exotics perhaps), but I assume you mean the P makes no financial sense in relation to the LR?In the back of Whatcar magazine it says retained value at 3yrs/36k miles is 57% for RWD, 60% for LR and 61% for Performance.
The Performance makes no financial sense, unless you compare it with something like a M3, Giulia QF or C63. Depreciation is offset by lower running costs.
I deliberately haven't thought about it too much and just ordered one! The P is well into diminishing returns over the LR for the 20% extra cost but I was going to buy something even sillier and more expensive, so I'm convinced (at least).None of this helps me convince myself I need a M3P however.
For the car itself - Just factory reset.what steps will be needed for those selling a Tesla? I’m selling to a dealer tomorrow through motorway
- do I need to remove my phone as a key or let the dealer do that?
- I’ll charge up to 90% to help them get back
- signed out of netflix
- have all the paperwork
- Considering leaving the car on my app/account until maybe the day after - that would allow them to use a supercharger if they need it to get home. Or should I just remove it and they can use a third party if needed?
anything else to consider?