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Ultra High Fidelity Sound System, Reus, or something else?

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Wow! How much power does your new audio system draw?

Thanks,
Alan

Max draw for my amplifier (a class D amplifier) is 50A at the fuse. I listen at mid to high volumes most of the time so I estimate that the average current draw is ~25A with peaks ~35A. Modern switching Class D amplifiers are the way to go in a Tesla, they sound great and are far easier on a power system than older more linear amplifiers. In theory a Class D amplifier can be 100% power efficient (meaning 100% of the incoming power is delivered to the load and zero is lost to heat). However, I think they end up being 80-90% efficient in practice but still far better than older car audio amplifiers. In contrast, more common Class A/B car amplifiers are ~50% efficient but this varies a lot depending on design.
 
Max draw for my amplifier (a class D amplifier) is 50A at the fuse. I listen at mid to high volumes most of the time so I estimate that the average current draw is ~25A with peaks ~35A. Modern switching Class D amplifiers are the way to go in a Tesla, they sound great and are far easier on a power system than older more linear amplifiers. In theory a Class D amplifier can be 100% power efficient (meaning 100% of the incoming power is delivered to the load and zero is lost to heat). However, I think they end up being 80-90% efficient in practice but still far better than older car audio amplifiers. In contrast, more common Class A/B car amplifiers are ~50% efficient but this varies a lot depending on design.

Thanks for the details.

Apologies for a very basic, newbie question: this is all at 12V, right?

Thanks,
Alan
 
Hi Alan,

Just to follow-up on my original post, the UHFS is meeting my needs quite nicely. Some people say that it doesn't have enough bass, but I think that is highly dependent on what kind of tone you like from your system. At home I tend to listen to a pair of Sennheiser HD280s which are known to be extremely balanced in tone. They definitely have "less" bass than Beats headphones at the same EQ settings, but I find the clarity of vocals and midrange to be much better. I think the same can be said for the UHFS. It may not have super strong bass (first subwoofer I've had in a car, so still way more than I'm used to), but I have been pleasantly surprised with the midrange and treble clarity. I've been hearing elements of songs I'd only heard in my Sennheisers prior. I haven't heard the base Model S system in a side by side comparison so I still don't know if it's a "$2500 difference," but I certainly haven't regretted taking the option for a second. I also can't see myself putting any more money into it. This does make the Light Harmonic 4D system an intriguing medium choice for those wanting improved sound without spending more than $2500. Still curious to see how that will turn out
 
Hi Alan,

Just to follow-up on my original post, the UHFS is meeting my needs quite nicely. Some people say that it doesn't have enough bass, but I think that is highly dependent on what kind of tone you like from your system. At home I tend to listen to a pair of Sennheiser HD280s which are known to be extremely balanced in tone. They definitely have "less" bass than Beats headphones at the same EQ settings, but I find the clarity of vocals and midrange to be much better. I think the same can be said for the UHFS. It may not have super strong bass (first subwoofer I've had in a car, so still way more than I'm used to), but I have been pleasantly surprised with the midrange and treble clarity. I've been hearing elements of songs I'd only heard in my Sennheisers prior. I haven't heard the base Model S system in a side by side comparison so I still don't know if it's a "$2500 difference," but I certainly haven't regretted taking the option for a second. I also can't see myself putting any more money into it. This does make the Light Harmonic 4D system an intriguing medium choice for those wanting improved sound without spending more than $2500. Still curious to see how that will turn out

Basically from our open up and tear down analysis of UHFS, we believe the most of BOM cost is related to a bunch of good cable wires and sub-woofer molded chassis on the right side of the trunk. The speaker units and amplifier there are kind of disappointment. Plastic baskets and paper cone with very small coil. Definitely not even in the range of Bose or other stuff.
 
I'm always pleasantly surprised how much time Cliff from REUS spends on the east coast even tho he is west coast based. and he is great about returning emails. now if only Tesla would update the Model S so I can see about getting a new one. :D