Uneven Re-gen Braking Feel on P3D+

[tjkenny15]

I only drive in "L". "D" is, well, "WTF where's my regen?"

"L" is decidedly more harsh engaging than the Model 3. Absolutely no subjectiveness wiggle room there.

Yeah, like I said, that has never been my experience, but to each their own.

 

[SammichLover]

Yeah, like I said, that has never been my experience, but to each their own.

It isn't a subjective thing. Put a g-meter on it and it is there, the curve is different. I suppose you could somehow not pay attention but it is still there.

 

[SammichLover]

Incidentally this is very likely behind why lots of Bolt owners swore up and down that the regen on the Bolt (without using the paddle) is stronger that the Model 3's. But when measured objectively the Model 3 slowed 50-5 (measured before Hold feature) in the same distance as the Bolt did, to the point it couldn't be differentiated. The relative harshness of the Bolt "L" onset tricked people into thinking the Model 3 wasn't braking as much as the Bolt.

 

[tjkenny15]

It isn't a subjective thing. Put a g-meter on it and it is there, the curve is different. I suppose you could somehow not pay attention but it is still there.

Lol I let you develop the scientific experiment. Do you still have the Bolt?

I just drove the Bolt 50 miles yesterday and my Tesla M3P about 90 miles today and would STILL say the opposite of what you're saying. Maybe my experience is different than yours because I have a Performance model, IDK

 

[SammichLover]

Do you still have the Bolt?

Yes....and it doesn't change. None of them ever will.

Maybe my experience is different than yours because I have a Performance model, IDK

Extremely unlikely, unless you drive around in Track Mode.

I let you develop the scientific experiment.

You can yourself, with a bit of work and an assistant. You need to get a platform with a slight indentation (top of a bottle should work) that you secure firmly and level (using a level), and a ball to set in the indention. Get up to speed as assistant holds the ball in place, assistant takes hand off the ball and you release the accelerator. Do that in both vehicles, probably a few times. You might have to play with ball/indentation size to get the correct sensitivity so it is easy to see the difference.

Best way to "release", to take foot-lift bias out, is likely to use CC with the Bolt and turn it off. With the Tesla use CC and disengage it.

Presto, a McGyver brand g-meter.

 

[zhu-]

Are the friction brakes actually used for that, before it hits 0 and engages the parking brakes (AKA rear calipers)? I assumed it was purely motor retarding the speed, that's what it feels like.

That's actually a good question. I assumed the car had to use friction brakes to slow to 0 and wasn't only using the brakes to hold at 0 since the Roll mode only slows the car down to 4-5mph. I'm not really sure.

 

[cypho]

At least 90% of the time when I let off the accelerator, the car comes to a stop exactly where I would stop if I was using the brakes.

I know it can't be true, but I've actually been wondering if the car is using it's autopilot skills to identify a logical place to stop and then is adjusting the regen to make it stop there.

 

[hellocar]

Yeah I have also found it to be super predictable on my LR AWD. It took me a few minutes to get used to it and it's been perfect ever since, for 3 months now.

If it's a struggle in your case to get the car to come to a stop where you want in HOLD mode, seems possible that something is not quite right with the car? Unless there is some quirk particular to the performance cars, but seems like other people aren't talking bout it so probably not.

 

[SleeperService]

Yes....and it doesn't change. None of them ever will.

Extremely unlikely, unless you drive around in Track Mode.

You can yourself, with a bit of work and an assistant. You need to get a platform with a slight indentation (top of a bottle should work) that you secure firmly and level (using a level), and a ball to set in the indention. Get up to speed as assistant holds the ball in place, assistant takes hand off the ball and you release the accelerator. Do that in both vehicles, probably a few times. You might have to play with ball/indentation size to get the correct sensitivity so it is easy to see the difference.

Best way to "release", to take foot-lift bias out, is likely to use CC with the Bolt and turn it off. With the Tesla use CC and disengage it.

Presto, a McGyver brand g-meter.

Or, you know, you could use the supercomputer in your pocket? Pretty much all smart phones have an accelerometer or two in them, just need the software to do the data acquisition and graph it. I use Physics Toolbox Pro on my Pixel 4 XL. I just set it in the smartphone cradle in the car and hit record. Works really well for positive acceleration, it'll work well for comparing negative acceleration. Someone that has both cars should do this and post the graphs...