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Unintended consequence of buying a Tesla

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just encountered another (and perhaps ironic) unintended consequence of trading in my ICE for a Tesla...

arrived home today in my Model S and had to move my wife's ICE SUV which was parked on the driveway and blocking my entry to the garage. Turned the key but found the SUV's battery had died... needs a jump start! (Might be due to it hardly being driven since I got my MS?)

Well, I DO still have my old jumper cables in the garage, but......

luckily a friend happens to be coming by later tonight, he has a car.

The MS also uses a 12V battery… They are two contact points accessible behind the nosecone. :)
I've never poped the nosecone myself, but I believe it is a little more complicated than with an ICE.
 
The MS also uses a 12V battery… They are two contact points accessible behind the nosecone. :)
I've never poped the nosecone myself, but I believe it is a little more complicated than with an ICE.
Be very careful boosting someone with it though, I wouldn't recommend trying to start their car while connected, you're likely to blow the fuse in the MS connected to those posts (50A I believe?) Better to connect, wait a few minutes to charge the ICE battery, disconnect, then try to start.
 
Yes I knew the Model S has a regular 12V battery hidden somewhere. But I thought I heard it was strongly advised against giving a jump start from the MS ? But perhaps as green1 suggests only using it to charge the ICE battery for a few moments before disconnecting and cranking the ICE would be ok. Anyhow I didn't want to chance it so I jumped the wife's SUV from a friend's car
 
Yes I knew the Model S has a regular 12V battery hidden somewhere. But I thought I heard it was strongly advised against giving a jump start from the MS ? But perhaps as green1 suggests only using it to charge the ICE battery for a few moments before disconnecting and cranking the ICE would be ok. Anyhow I didn't want to chance it so I jumped the wife's SUV from a friend's car
You'll find basically every new car manufacturer tells you never to use your car to boost someone, in reality the risk is pretty low from most cars, the only difference with the Tesla is the 50A fuse, it's plenty to charge through, not great for cranking through though.
 
Be very careful boosting someone with it though, I wouldn't recommend trying to start their car while connected, you're likely to blow the fuse in the MS connected to those posts (50A I believe?) Better to connect, wait a few minutes to charge the ICE battery, disconnect, then try to start.
you can charge a dead battery in an ICE after just a "few minutes" connected to the Model S 12V battery? That quickly?
I'm interested in seeing a more specific value for your "a few minutes" statement. To me that means "3 or 4".
 
you can charge a dead battery in an ICE after just a "few minutes" connected to the Model S 12V battery? That quickly?
I'm interested in seeing a more specific value for your "a few minutes" statement. To me that means "3 or 4".
Depends how dead the battery is, and how much it needs. Very often ICE batteries are "almost" enough to start a car, but need just a tiny bit extra, so a minute or two is fine (I've boosted an ICE through a 30A fuse and 12ga wire with no waiting when I knew it was close). Assuming no other issues in the ICE, worst case to get the car going in normal weather would probably be about 10-15 minutes connected this way, keep in mind this isn't a trickle charger, you're providing a lot more than the 1-2A those do (and honestly, I've had good luck getting dead ICEs going with less than an hour on one of those too)
If there's actual issues with the ICE, or you're in extreme cold temperatures, all bets are off, but you'd be surprised how little is needed to boost an otherwise healthy ICE (they need lots of current, but for very little time)
 
just encountered another (and perhaps ironic) unintended consequence of trading in my ICE for a Tesla...

arrived home today in my Model S and had to move my wife's ICE SUV which was parked on the driveway and blocking my entry to the garage. Turned the key but found the SUV's battery had died... needs a jump start! (Might be due to it hardly being driven since I got my MS?)

Well, I DO still have my old jumper cables in the garage, but......

luckily a friend happens to be coming by later tonight, he has a car.

That's why I went out and bought this portable jump starter in case I need to jump start my Camry.

I left my wife's Highlander running for a few hours the other day. I had to move it and when I was done I just jumped out and walked away... oops!

...and one of these days I'm either going to get that Camry stolen, or it's going to set off my carbon monoxide detectors in the garage because I tend to do this nearly every time I drive that car now.
 
When connecting to another vehicle, the first step is to take the keys so that there is no possibility that the other driver will try to start their car. The best case if they do is that the fuse will blow. More likely additional damage will be done before the fuse blows (there is plenty of Prius experience, and I doubt that the Tesla would be better with regard to fuses. Best way to play good samaritan is to use a jumpstart kit.
 
No, it's a real (if smallish) car battery. It would never fit in a motorcycle.

A friend told me recently that he boosted several cars in a row a week or so ago. I would never have attempted it, for fear that it would damage something.
 
You'll find basically every new car manufacturer tells you never to use your car to boost someone, in reality the risk is pretty low from most cars, the only difference with the Tesla is the 50A fuse, it's plenty to charge through, not great for cranking through though.

Volt manual has instructions on how to jump or be jumped, but that has a regular 12V battery.
 
I don't see any harm in charging another battery off the Tesla's 12V system, but you may want to turn the car "on" so the DC-DC converter will be active. It is possible the converter may not turn on in time to charge the 12V battery if it is not constantly monitored for state-of-charge.