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Unplugged Lowering Brackets Installation?
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It's very simple, its one electrical connector on the sensor and just a few bolts (actually 1 for the brackets I think) to remove the bracket and the sensor from the bracket. TIP take a picture before you remove the stock sensors so you can see the orientation of the sensor bracket and arm on the sensor. I'ts pretty hard to mess up the bracket orientation but have seen a few do it, mostly people invert the sensor arms by accident. You'll need to remove the rear wheels to get the rear done, you can actually do the fronts by raising the suspension to max and reaching in....TIP be careful if you do this that you don't lose the bracket bolt behind the wheel well liner.
First time being cautious, not mechanically inclined, and taking your time I would say 2 hours tops. I think I changed mine in 45 minutes. They are way over priced, but they are simple to install with no tweaking (set them and forget them), and the quality is top notch.
First time being cautious, not mechanically inclined, and taking your time I would say 2 hours tops. I think I changed mine in 45 minutes. They are way over priced, but they are simple to install with no tweaking (set them and forget them), and the quality is top notch.
If you want something even easier and cheaper get some 3d printed lowering links. If you have a 3d printer it can be done for a few cents of material or some members can print them for you. They are extremely easy to snap off the old ones and put on the 3d printed links. If you ever need service it is easy to swap back to the original links.
This thread has more information:
3D printed lowering links
This thread has more information:
3D printed lowering links
Hello,
I would be more than happy to walk you through this installation if you need assistance. It is fairly simple and can be done with basic tools.
Model S - Sports Air Suspension Lowering Kit - Installation Guide - Unplugged Performance
You can email me directly at [email protected] should you need further assistance.
I have linked the install guide above and if you are not totally satisfied we do offer a 100% money back guarantee!
Thank you for your support.
yeah, i was contemplating back and forth between links (though not 3d printed) and the bracket.. haven't fully decided yet
Rockwell
Member
I have the lowering links. works great and about a hour to install them. I got them on ebay for 100 shipped.
Easy... just remember which way the links are facing, not the brackets as the links used are the same as using lowering links you just cannot adjust them. Either they are facing down or up mainly on the rears is where people make a mistake. Take a picture before you remove them to make it easier
PS: this was on a Sept 2019 model S, not sure if the sensor side studs are flimsy plastic on older models
I did exactly this and it worked out perfectly. Only thing I suggest is to remove the link from the A-Arm/Link side first with some needle nose pliers or other tool to 'pry' the arm off the ball stud, then unplug and remove the sensor. Once the sensor is removed use needle nose pliers to grasp the stud of the ballstud under the connector link then by hand wedge the sensor link off. By doing it this way you will avoid doing what I did on my first sensor which was rip the plastic ball stud completely off the ride height sensor. Because the sensor arm and stud are all plastic it will break right off. Luckily I was able to super glue and use a screw from the back side and secure the ball back on to the stud and repair it very soundly, and used the method I detail for the removal of the other 3 I had to do.
Install the new link back on to the sensor the exact same way, secure the base of the ball stud on the sensor with pliers and press the new 3d printed arm on, then reinstall the sensor back to the car. I did use a razor blade to notch the inner liner because the throw of the arm would bind up, test run the articulation of the arm to the liner to mark where to cut away first before connecting the other side of the link to the suspension.
Also my buddy who printed them out did a few runs and different resolutions and measured the C2C on each link to ensure they were all uniform. I installed the +3 all the way around and run the car on low all the time, When I have time I'll swap out for the +6 so I can run on standard at the height I want, and use low for when I want to Lay Battery.
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You are right putting them back on is tough. Too make it easy for the front ones just take a back of a hammer and place the link on the ball. Then put the hammer on the link with it over the ball joint evenly and push it on. Same with rear one that isn’t hanging freely. I learned this after installing and removing them over 30 times. Some are hard to grab the link and the ball without it sliding off. This works on the ones that are secured like the top ones on the front and rear. Those are hard the grasp with any type of wrench or pliers.
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