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Unplugged Performance Adjustable Front Upper Arms Installed and Thoughts

By far the best adjustable front upper control arms in my personal opinion. Remove unwanted deflection from the factory rubber bushings and replace them with OE style sealed bearings that are noise-free and will likely last the life of the car. Camber(lots of camber) and caster(track guys will appreciate the additional caster and camber gain that comes with added caster) adjustments all in one, no shims to mess with and no shims to lose. Precise camber and caster adjustments with a simple turn of the turnbuckle or use the Camber Pill(+-2 on camber depending which way you are going) to go from street to track in a matter of minutes.

BTW, you can also use these to take out camber on cars lowered 1" or more for longer tire life.

For those counting the ounces, the Unplugged arms are lighter!
🙂


And for those looking to support American companies these are made in the USA!
 

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I asked about these in another thread but did not get much info. Any clue how much actual negative camber can you get with these with maxed out adjustments? How much caster can one gain? More dynamic camber would be nice.
You have 2 at the Pill, 1 from lowering the car about 1" and 2-3 at the turnbuckle. That is more than what most of us need. Will have to hop on a alignment machine to see the amount of caster adjustment available. Hoping to see 1-2 more at my current caster setting.
 
You have 2 at the Pill, 1 from lowering the car about 1" and 2-3 at the turnbuckle. That is more than what most of us need. Will have to hop on a alignment machine to see the amount of caster adjustment available. Hoping to see 1-2 more at my current caster setting.
I honestly don't know what you mean by 'at the Pill' or by 'at the turnbuckle.' Camber is camber.

UP claims these are good for -4 degrees. Looking at your installed pic, it does not seem like you have the adjustment bolts maxed out.
I'm on MPP arms, lowered 1.5", and am looking to get more than 2.5 degrees I already have.

If you plan on hopping onto the alignment rack anyway, it would be very useful to potential buyers to know the adjustment range.
 
I honestly don't know what you mean by 'at the Pill' or by 'at the turnbuckle.' Camber is camber.

UP claims these are good for -4 degrees. Looking at your installed pic, it does not seem like you have the adjustment bolts maxed out.
I'm on MPP arms, lowered 1.5", and am looking to get more than 2.5 degrees I already have.

If you plan on hopping onto the alignment rack anyway, it would be very useful to potential buyers to know the adjustment range.
WIth MPP you use shims and only one point of camber adjustment. Unplugged arms have two camber adjustment points, one at the turnbuckle and one at the ball joint or the Pill they call it. You can basically flip the ball joint inside out to gain or lose 2 degrees depending on where you have it set. Are you saying with no shims on the MPP arms you are only at -2.5?

They are not even close to me maxed out. Not shooting for max or factory camber. Just a sport setting of -1.5 degrees. You can get -1 and up to -4 easily, but of course ride height can add or subtract from that.
 
-1.5 is what I ended up trying out as a starting point for these front upper arms (and 5.8* caster), zero toe. I drove to the alignment shop with more than -3.5* and it was sketch. Aside from a bit wiggly under heavy braking, the car drove nice and balanced on the track with street tires.
 
It would be great to know the difference between your front and rear adjustment points.
Hey there Motion!

Blake from UP, Our Front Upper Control Arms (FUCA) have laser etched indicators to denote the Front Left, and Right front arms. Their design is asymmetrical to improve the adjustability of the camber, caster, and toe. We can tell the front and rear turnbuckle using this indicator and correct orientation. Let us know if you have any questions!
 
Hey there Motion!

Blake from UP, Our Front Upper Control Arms (FUCA) have laser etched indicators to denote the Front Left, and Right front arms. Their design is asymmetrical to improve the adjustability of the camber, caster, and toe. We can tell the front and rear turnbuckle using this indicator and correct orientation. Let us know if you have any questions!
The differential in measurements between the front and rear adjustments determine the caster, but what is the differential in term of degrees of caster. Do you have any data on that(e.g., 1/4" differential equals 1 degree of caster)
 
The differential in measurements between the front and rear adjustments determine the caster, but what is the differential in term of degrees of caster. Do you have any data on that(e.g., 1/4" differential equals 1 degree of caster)
Hey Motion122, apologies for the delay, our race and development division is slammed preparing for our next event at Buttonwillow Raceway, so it took some time to get this answer for you. Per our Race Director,

"-there are too many variables (that affect the caster). There's 4 bolts that hold the front corner in place (the ones that you've circled near the toe adjustments), 2x 13s and 2x 15s, the position of these impacts alignment. This is just one example of something that impacts what the starting alignment specs will be. You really need to just have it on an alignment rack and mess with it."

Hope this helps, was able to get this by catching him in the halls!
 
Hey there Motion!

Blake from UP, Our Front Upper Control Arms (FUCA) have laser etched indicators to denote the Front Left, and Right front arms. Their design is asymmetrical to improve the adjustability of the camber, caster, and toe. We can tell the front and rear turnbuckle using this indicator and correct orientation. Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for the reply.

I just thought since you guys design and made this component and have installed countless numbers of these you have collected enough data to know the difference in the length of adjustments net a certain degrees of caster from a given starting point.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I just thought since you guys design and made this component and have installed countless numbers of these you have collected enough data to know the difference in the length of adjustments net a certain degrees of caster from a given starting point.
Hmm, somehow I am not surprised.

I would still love to see someone set these arms set to more than -3 degrees and confirm that they don't rub/hit anything. 🤷‍♂️
 
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I installed bags by myself and it was a nightmare due to the stabilizer being too flexed to allow for things to be removed.
Like do you REALLY need to remove the entire assembly? or could I work with a ratcheting wrench? lol
There isn't enough space to get the bolts out. You could leave it partially in the car and bring it out just enough to remove the control arm bolts.
 
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Hmm, somehow I am not surprised.

I would still love to see someone set these arms set to more than -3 degrees and confirm that they don't rub/hit anything. 🤷‍♂️
I have run -4* with them and not had any rubbing issues, but I am not sure where you would be expecting the rub. I think I could easily get to -5* maxed out. I run around 7* of caster with them. I have enjoyed the arms so far in my use over the last year and half. I do like the quick flip of the ball joint for the quick change in camber. I will say though that after doing probably 12 alignments on the car you need to make sure to use antiseize on all components as they will start to have problems.
 
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