Upgrade options from 120V (14-50 uncorded vs 14-50 corded vs wall connector)?

[NotForResale]

After charging on my 120V for the past 7 months I've finally decided to upgrade and am looking for advice or feedback regarding anything I may not have considered. These are the 3 options I've been considering:

Method	Maximum Output (A)	Cost (not including outlet/connector install)
14-50 with Mobile Connector (14-50 Adapter)	32A	$45
14-50 with Mobile Connector (Corded)	40A	$200
Wall Connector	48A	$400

Currently leaning towards just buying the 14-50 Adapter and going with the lowest output. These are my considerations:

• The 120V has been fast enough to do all my charging at home without any issues.
  • Increased charging speeds do not matter to me in this sense so the 32A option is more than enough for this purpose.
• I want to decrease energy waste from slow-charging on a 120V (maintaining battery temperature while charging and any other inefficiencies).
  • Not sure if there is a significant difference in efficiency between 32A, 40A, and 48A. Anyone have data?
• I want to charge quickly enough to finish charging during off-peak hours on a Time-of-Use plan so I don't need to use a third party app to avoid on-peak charging.
  • Even the 32A option should be fast enough unless I switch to the most aggressive EV-only TOU plan (which I probably won't as it requires installing a dedicated meter).
• I would prefer not to get a proprietary charging option (Wall Connector) if possible as I'm not sure how long I will be using this charger.
  • May move in as soon as a year from now and the people staying may have use for a 14-50 outlet whereas the Wall Connector will be a paperweight for the foreseeable future.

Anything else I should be considering? Thank you in advance!

 

[jjrandorin]

It looks like you covered everything thats important, both to you, and in general. Your description shows a definite preference in your mind for the 14-50 outlet, so you should go with what you prefer.

 

[stopcrazypp]

I would have also suggested the 6-50 adapter also, which saves you a conductor (which helps if you have a long run). However, considering your circumstances, the 14-50 is more flexible for future users.

I was like you too, I used 110V for a while, but upgraded to a 14-50 and don't regret it (really helps when there are unplanned things that pop up and it allows for very quick top ups).

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

All 3 options will end up around the same price once parts and labor are factored in and you can expect the total to be in the $1K-$2K range. Battery heating is not a thing unless you live in Siberia and are charging outdoors in a violent snowstorm, but 120V charging is slightly less efficient since the car is "awake" during the much longer charge. Plan on approximately 100,000 years to break even if cost savings thru increased charge efficiency is your goal.

 

[Kimmi]

I vote for the Wall Connector.

 

[ucmndd]

Plan on approximately 100,000 years to break even if cost savings thru increased charge efficiency is your goal.

Fun math problem:

Car consumes about 300w, give or take, when awake. So a 120v 5-15 will put about 1.1kw into the battery. 240v at 32 amps will put about 7.3kw into the battery, so ~7x the power.

OP said the 120v was fine for their needs, so assume 8 hours of charging a day at 300w overhead, = 2.4kwh.

14-50 at 32 amps can supply that same amount of power in 1.2 hours at 300w overhead, = ~0.4kwh.

2kwh difference per day, let’s say 5 days per week = 520kwh in a year.

OP is in California - here in PGE territory my cheapest off-peak rate is $0.25/kwh. So that’s $130/year.

So if it’s $1,000 soup to nuts to install a 14-50, that’s ONLY 7.7 years to break even - approximately 99,992 years less than your estimate.

 

[3sr+buyer]

If you go for a 14-50 or 6-50 outlet (instead of a hardwired wall connector), use an outlet that has full brass contacts to the plug blades (look in the plug holes to see the contacts). Outlets with smaller steel contacts* will have higher resistance and heat and the interface between the contacts and plug blades, which can increase the risk of melting or burning, or the mobile connector reducing charge power due to high heat detected.

*For example, Leviton 279-S00 (14-50) and Leviton 5374-S00 (6-50).

 

[stopcrazypp]

One thing to consider that I forgot to mention is that if you install a 14-50 outlet, you will need a GFCI breaker to meet code, and one costs over $100, while the Wall Connector can use a regular breaker that costs less. This may be offset somewhat by the higher conductor costs for the Wall connector (which would need thicker 6 AWG wires to support that 48A continuous), although this is offset somewhat because you use one less conductor (no neutral wire) than a 14-50 install.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

I said "approximately". And I was using the Windows calculator.

 

[davewill]

You should consider the outlet install and parts in your calculations. The 14-50 outlet will require a GFCI circuit breaker which costs more than a regular one, approx $200. Even though you can find 14-50 outlets in the $10 range, you will also find endless threads here where they have failed and caused problems. A quality one is going to be in the $75-100 range. Once you add those two costs to the mobile connector scenarios, the Wall Connector looks a lot more attractive.

 

[jrweiss98020]

With a 14-50, you can also opt for a ChargePoint or other brand connector. I bought a ChargePoint, and my utility company rebate plus tax rebate reduced the end cost to $40.

 

[3sr+buyer]

Even though you can find 14-50 outlets in the $10 range, you will also find endless threads here where they have failed and caused problems. A quality one is going to be in the $75-100 range.

The problems seem to be associated mainly with Leviton 279-S00 (14-50) and Leviton 5374-S00 (6-50) outlets. Other lower cost outlets (e.g. Utilitech) do not seem to have similar issues with poor plug blade contacts.

Of course, the forum favorites are the relatively expensive Hubbell and Bryant outlets. Their 14-50 outlets (but not the 6-50 outlets, at least not the Bryant one), use a plate clamping method to attach the wires instead of the usual screw-down method, which can make installation more mistake resistant. But a carefully installed outlet with screw-down wire clamping will be ok.

 

[NotForResale]

Thank you all for the advice. I ended up requesting quotes for the 14-50r install. Just got back my first estimate.

The panel is located on the outside of the garage wall directly opposite the interior garage location where I want the 14-50 outlet installed. So the outlet would probably be 1-2 feet from the panel.

First estimate is $1147:

• $815 for the NEMA 14-50
• $185 for the permit application, supporting docs, spec sheets, and load calcs
• $100 for city permit
• $47 cable organizer (would skip this)

I’ll wait on the rest of the quotes, but not sure if I’ll bother going through with it if they all come out to a similar price. Might just wait until I move.

 

[JssonB]

Thank you all for the advice. I ended up requesting quotes for the 14-50r install. Just got back my first estimate.

The panel is located on the outside of the garage wall directly opposite the interior garage location where I want the 14-50 outlet installed. So the outlet would probably be 1-2 feet from the panel.

First estimate is $1147:

• $815 for the NEMA 14-50
• $185 for the permit application, supporting docs, spec sheets, and load calcs
• $100 for city permit
• $47 cable organizer (would skip this)

I’ll wait on the rest of the quotes, but not sure if I’ll bother going through with it if they all come out to a similar price. Might just wait until I move.

WOW, that's pricey for a 2 foot run. I realize the trip charge, labor and the permits, but holy smokes. It's such an easy job it blows my mind. I've been an electrician for 30 years with the last 16 at a City municipal department to know all those charges are ridiculous!

But don't install it for a return, get one installed for the convenience of the level 2 charge.

 

[davewill]

WOW, that's pricey for a 2 foot run. I realize the trip charge, labor and the permits, but holy smokes. It's such an easy job it blows my mind. I've been an electrician for 30 years with the last 16 at a City municipal department to know all those charges are ridiculous!

But don't install it for a return, get one installed for the convenience of the level 2 charge.

Maybe a little cheaper, but there's $2-300 just in parts to consider.

 

[JssonB]

Maybe a little cheaper, but there's $2-300 just in parts to consider.

Yeah, true. $500 should be close to the amount with only a 3 foot run and using quality material though. With the breaker panel just on the other side, it could be even less of a run.

 

[NotForResale]

Perhaps not useful since prices will vary depending on your situation, but here are the best estimates I received for each option.

Method	Maximum Output	Cost (including all parts/installation before tax)
14-50 with Mobile Connector (14-50 Adapter)	32A	$1145
14-50 with Mobile Connector (Corded)	40A	$1300
Wall Connector	48A	$1480

As some of you guessed, the quoted installation cost ended up being more or less the same between the 14-50 and Wall Connector. The price difference mostly comes down to the cost of the Wall Connector vs Mobile Connector.

 

[DuncanM]

You could upgrade your outlet to a NEMA 5-20 gfci, assuming the wire and breaker are adequate: You could then charge at 120v/16amp or less. Alternately you could upgrade to a NEMA 6-20 gfci and then charge at 240v/16amp (or less).

 

[LoL-Gas]

If you do spend so much for the wall mounted charger, you can always convert that to a 14-50 or 6-50 when you move. Bring that box with you to the next home to reduce future costs.

 

[jrweiss98020]

Another option is a 14-50 and a ChargePoint (or similar) charger. You may get a rebate from your utility company. My rebates covered all but $40!