I am long removed from the component market, but if it were me, I would be looking at an active crossover. This splits the signal before it hits the amp. That way, you're not amplifying signals that you later cut out (which is what the blocker is doing). Your system runs more efficiently that way. It also allows you to have better control over the balance of your system.
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Upgraded SR Partial Audio to Full Premium
- Thread starter Wampa
- Start date
AdamMacDon
Member
I debated active crossovers but the problem is I want a clean, factory looking setup over anything, so trying to fit it in my build is probably out of the question.
Still waiting for someone to put together an aftermarket upgrade package with install for a good price
I want a few more active speakers producing sound and a subwoofer with some kick coming from the rear so whoever brings this first to market is going to make bank
The amount of SR+ owners that would want to upgrade is a lot
I want a few more active speakers producing sound and a subwoofer with some kick coming from the rear so whoever brings this first to market is going to make bank
The amount of SR+ owners that would want to upgrade is a lot
AdamMacDon
Member
Not sure where you're located, but Reus audio in Cali has options for SR+ sound system upgrades. Kind of expensive but no doubt high quality.
Reus Audio is the place to go. HUGE fan of their work - I have a 2.5 system and couldn't be happier.
@AdamMacDon after having problems with a somewhat defective PN5.640D, I found out Soundstream service sucks and I probably can't return it. I got no response from tech support email or warranty email. They apparently don't warranty except from "authorized resellers". I found it cheap on Newegg.com, but likely would have gotten my problems taken care of if I spent more and bought it from Crutchfield.com. If I had to do it over (and I might), I'm leaning toward a Pioneer GM-D9705 which is a little more but should be way better.
AdamMacDon
Member
Thanks for the heads up, I have heard a few tales similar to yours. I'm probably gonna roll the dice on the Soundstream amp because I need the small form factor to fit in the sub cubby, out of sight. If space wasn't an issue I'd for sure choose a much better product. Originally I was considering a 5 channel Kenwood Echelon, but it wouldn't fit according to my measurements.
Supershanefx
Member
ok I’m trying to clear up some connections and questions. I’m a super visual person so I’m putting my plan in a drawing...but I have some open questions:
Alpine KTP-445u:
1. I see that it only has a front and rear input? So there’s not a left/right? But there’s a left & right output.
2. How should I hook this amp up to the A pillar and window speakers?
Sub amp: Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1
-I’m using the OEM SUB. How do I hook this up to the sub amp I’m getting? Confused on the inputs and outs on the amp and what the wire colors are on the oem sub.
Power and grounds to the amps: do I run separate grounds/power for each amp?
Window speakers/Apillars:
I was planning to use the ICE front dash speakers to tap into for theses. But was confused how hook the amp to them.
Rear deck speakers:
1. Am I tapping into the right spot on the ICE? Right rear door wires
Materials:
8 gauge amp kit
100ft 16-gauge wire
Posi-Tap
Anything else I’m missing?
Alpine KTP-445u:
1. I see that it only has a front and rear input? So there’s not a left/right? But there’s a left & right output.
2. How should I hook this amp up to the A pillar and window speakers?
Sub amp: Rockford Fosgate R2-250X1
-I’m using the OEM SUB. How do I hook this up to the sub amp I’m getting? Confused on the inputs and outs on the amp and what the wire colors are on the oem sub.
Power and grounds to the amps: do I run separate grounds/power for each amp?
Window speakers/Apillars:
I was planning to use the ICE front dash speakers to tap into for theses. But was confused how hook the amp to them.
Rear deck speakers:
1. Am I tapping into the right spot on the ICE? Right rear door wires
Materials:
8 gauge amp kit
100ft 16-gauge wire
Posi-Tap
Anything else I’m missing?
Attachments
jmatero
Member
Just a heads up that if your car was built after early March 2020, there are no rear deck speakers and those wires are not in the harness to tap.
AdamMacDon
Member
I am just finishing this job today but I went quite a different route. I put it an OEM sub and ran it and 4 speakers off a 5 channel Picasso nano amp. Also I ended up not tapping the ICE because it is a nightmare to get at the harness for it. I tapped the rear door speakers at each B pillar and ran all my speakers off that. Yes the A pillar speakers don't work right with the fader, but since I leave it centered I couldn't care less. I tapped the front door woofers for signal for the amp and voila!
I'm making a very tough video detailing the steps I did, I should be able to post it sometime soon, although might not be that relevant to you. Also what year and month is your car?
Supershanefx
Member
timmy818
Member
Does yours have USB-C ports?
Mine came with 2 USB-C for the passangers and1-USB for the wireless charger that now comes stock and one USB3 port free.
I still haven't gotten the .24 update either which got me thinking they roll it by specific models.
Supershanefx
Member
Supershanefx
Member
Hope this helps...
The Alpine amp first:
1. Are you using a line out converter or are you cutting off the RCA plugs on the amp harness? I think the red=right channel and white=left channel still applies if you choose to cut off the plugs or T-Tap these.
2. I see your diagram that you have the amp to the A pillar. I wired my the door tweeters to the amp and then I T-tapped (because these are so much cheaper than post-taps and I figured it's not the car's original wiring) the speaker wire to power the A pillar speaker in parallel.
Sub:
The sub is a dual coil speaker so just wire the 2 positive and 2 negatives together to connect to the amp positive and negative output. I haven't done this yet because the amp I plan to use is sold out everywhere. I plan to use the Pioneer GM-A3702 in bridged mode because this appears to be the cheapest amp that can power it.
You should run separate grounds for each amp. But you may be able to power both amps with one fuse. The alpine is only 15A. I plan to eventually run both off one (Alpine is 15A and Pioneer is 25A).
Rear deck - looks correct. Video shows the locations of the wires, but not for the front ICE.
I did not tap into the front ICE for input so can't help you there.
@AdamMacDon Interested to see your video.
AdamMacDon
Member
The video isn't great, I couldn't manage filming and doing the work at the same time, so it's really more like an overview of my experience doing the install. Hopefully it helps a few people though as it goes through how I did it. I am just stuck on one last thing which is reducing the A-pillar speaker volume, it's way too overpowered in my current setup so I need to find some way to attenuate it, then button things back together and edit the video.
AdamMacDon
Member
The A pillar speaker, it's a 2 inch speaker and I've heard claims that it's only 2w, although mine is really loud (I'd guess it around more like 20W). It's wired directly to my amp, which outputs way too much power for it (60W I believe). I opted against wiring up the mirror tweeters because I'm not big into tweeters and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of the passenger side tweeter, haha. My amp won't let the gain go any lower using high level inputs, so I might have to go a different route and use a resistor or L-pad between the amp and the speaker, or use a PAC line converter to bring the high level input to a low level I can dial way down. I'll have to look into the feasibility of both options, but I'm leaning towards the resistors for simplicity sake.
todd2fst4u
Member
AdamMacDon
Member
25 watts sounds right, it puts out pretty decent sound. It's certainly not 2W.
