Thinking of just wiring the rear shelf speakers, no sub. Planing to tap into rear door speakers at ICE -> wiring to a basic amp like this one: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-74925-Boss-CE102.html -> tap into shelf speakers. Should be very cheap, with minimal trim removal. Good plan?
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Upgraded SR Partial Audio to Full Premium
- Thread starter Wampa
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AdamMacDon
Member
Personally I recommend the sub, taking the trunk trim apart is easy as pie. That being said, if you aren't into hip hop like me it make not be as important. Rear speakers are for sure a good upgrade.
I found tapping the ICE nearly impossible, even with posi taps so I gave up and tapped into the B pillar area where the wires go out to the rear doors. However if you could get at the ICE it would be pretty minimal trim removal for your setup.
Passenger side sill trims, rear seat, and passenger side of the rear seat side bolster. Also the passenger side kick panel trims. All those are easy except the seat bolster one, which is a pain.
Also the rear seat has enough room under it you could probably find a home for that tiny amp easily. I wouldn't be too worried about heat with such a small load on it. Mounting in the trunk like I did is probably better but at that point might as well throw the factory sub in.
Thanks. Don't really need the subwoofer for this particular car.
In regards to the B pillar: I know where the wires for the right side rear door speaker are, but for the left side I was thinking that it will be easier to tap at ICE, just for that left speaker, so I don't have to bring these from the left B pillar location. Does that make sense?
AdamMacDon
Member
Honestly the ICE was way harder for me than just opening up the 2 extra pieces of trim you'd have to open to get at the driver side B-pillar. Your mileage will vary, but with my fat hands I just couldn't get the connector out of the computer in such tight quarters, and trying to tap it with the connector still attached was a non-starter. Good luck with your build!
I plan to use this harness as it makes the install neat and tidy but piggy back off of it
Chetanh
Member
Did you do all 6 speakers and the sub? How did u get a $295 quote for the sub? I eas quoted $700 by SC in mississauga?
AdamMacDon
Member
I ended up skipping the tweeters since I don't really like highs and it is a pain to get at the passenger side one. So 4 speakers and a sub. Be sure they aren't quoting you with the amplifier, the part number for just the sub can be found in my write up here: Model 3 SR+ Premium Sound System Upgrade Video
Nope. Waiting for Tesla Offer's revision harness.
Hansshow has their own harness and subwoofer package for $699.
Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow
Supershanefx
Member
I did and it works great. Just installed an amp to it as well.
Supershanefx
Member
What do you mean by “revision” harness? I’ve spoken with TeslaOffer and this is their only harness.
Supershanefx
Member
Based on the TeslaOffer harness and using the Alpine amp... this is the wiring diagram I setup... hopefully I did this right.
I first looked at the wires that were coming out of the Teslaoffer plug harness from the ICE and matched that with the diagram I found of the audio out wires from the stock SR+ harness. Weird thing is that the Teslaoffer harness had all the black striped wires as positive except the Left Rear door.
I then exposed those wires from the black covering on the TeslaOffer harness before they went into the black box that splits off into the other speaker connections.
I then cut those wires and spliced in the Alpine amp. Note that the Alpine amp wires...the black striped wires are negative.
I mounted the Amp under the center console in the large gap between the cover panels. this allowed me to only have to extend the speaker wires of the harness and connect to the Amp input wires. The output wires were long enough to run under the carpet and connect back into the harness.
I ran the power under the floor carpet in the front passenger and down the passenger side door sill panels and connected to the Penthouse.
Couple questions I have for the experts on here:
1. how do I know my amp is working? there's not a light that turns on so I dont know. It sounds good but, and better than without the amp but wasn't sure.
2. how do I know if my ground is good? I found a bolt that was bolted into the body of the car on the console and used that.
3. is my power line running next to my speaker wires bad? I couldn't think of another way to avoid it.
4. my amp is mounted under the console in the gap between the panels: Will this be a heat problem? I saw other put it under the seat bolster...so I figured this would be the same.
I first looked at the wires that were coming out of the Teslaoffer plug harness from the ICE and matched that with the diagram I found of the audio out wires from the stock SR+ harness. Weird thing is that the Teslaoffer harness had all the black striped wires as positive except the Left Rear door.
I then exposed those wires from the black covering on the TeslaOffer harness before they went into the black box that splits off into the other speaker connections.
I then cut those wires and spliced in the Alpine amp. Note that the Alpine amp wires...the black striped wires are negative.
I mounted the Amp under the center console in the large gap between the cover panels. this allowed me to only have to extend the speaker wires of the harness and connect to the Amp input wires. The output wires were long enough to run under the carpet and connect back into the harness.
I ran the power under the floor carpet in the front passenger and down the passenger side door sill panels and connected to the Penthouse.
Couple questions I have for the experts on here:
1. how do I know my amp is working? there's not a light that turns on so I dont know. It sounds good but, and better than without the amp but wasn't sure.
2. how do I know if my ground is good? I found a bolt that was bolted into the body of the car on the console and used that.
3. is my power line running next to my speaker wires bad? I couldn't think of another way to avoid it.
4. my amp is mounted under the console in the gap between the panels: Will this be a heat problem? I saw other put it under the seat bolster...so I figured this would be the same.
Supershanefx
Member
Supershanefx
Member
$80 harness connects to stock amp. $699 for harness, DSP, and subwoofer in stock cavity location
You could use the harness and piggy back it to your own amp and subwoofer as per Supershanefx above.
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