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Upgraded To OEM Performance Brakes

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If someone does install the MPP BBK up front, is it a given that the rear rotors have to be upgraded at the same time? I get that the front wheels would be pushed out slightly and the rears wouldn't (by those few mm), but I'm talking more about the heating of the rear rotors and at what point that happens relative to the fronts. With the smaller rear calipers how susceptible to overheating are the rear PUP rotors using the stock PUP calipers?

The stock PUP rear calipers are totally fine even with stock rear rotors. I have yet to overheat them other than on stock pads. RB XT970's lasted 12 days for me and I expect the Carbotech RP2's to last even longer (currently have 4 days on those). I'm trying Raybestos ST-43's next. If anything, I would consider MPP rotors to shave a few pounds.
 
Aren't RB rotors notoriously known for bolt / shearing issues. I believe Mash said he torqued down everything and after his run at the ring his came loose. Even though the Model S upgrade is very attractive I'd probably wait. Word on the street is that MPP is making a BBK for performance owners in the rear. If that's the case I might convert and source parts for the caliper and harness.
 
Aren't RB rotors notoriously known for bolt / shearing issues. I believe Mash said he torqued down everything and after his run at the ring his came loose. Even though the Model S upgrade is very attractive I'd probably wait. Word on the street is that MPP is making a BBK for performance owners in the rear. If that's the case I might convert and source parts for the caliper and harness.

I would personally stay away from RB. Mash has had several issues, and my experience with customer service has been poor. If you're only looking for pads they are OK but most people have reported smearing. There are better pad options coming soon (I should have some exciting news to share shortly).
 
I would personally stay away from RB. Mash has had several issues, and my experience with customer service has been poor. If you're only looking for pads they are OK but most people have reported smearing. There are better pad options coming soon (I should have some exciting news to share shortly).
What a tease. This Covid time have all of us itching and everyone is running dry.
 
@MasterC17 Did I read that the rear rotors for the regular model 3 and PUP essentially share the same rotor? I understand about the hub step but in my case if I switched to an MPP rear rotor can’t I change out my rear caliper/harness to a performance and stick with the rear rotor and it would work the same?
 
@MasterC17 Did I read that the rear rotors for the regular model 3 and PUP essentially share the same rotor? I understand about the hub step but in my case if I switched to an MPP rear rotor can’t I change out my rear caliper/harness to a performance and stick with the rear rotor and it would work the same?

The thickness and width of the PUP and Base rotors are the same. The difference is in the pad sweep area. It is larger for the Performance.

Therefore, you can use PUP Rotors with Base Calipers, but you cannot use Base Rotors with Performance Calipers.
 
The thickness and width of the PUP and Base rotors are the same. The difference is in the pad sweep area. It is larger for the Performance.

Therefore, you can use PUP Rotors with Base Calipers, but you cannot use Base Rotors with Performance Calipers.
Sorry maybe I wasn’t clear. I have the base rear rotors and caliper setup. I just upgraded to MPP rotors only. Now I’m considering changing the caliper out to a Performance caliper. Seeing that the MPP rotor upgrade for the performance gets rid of the step lip and is the same diameter of the MPP base rotor....can I swap out the caliper only? I understand the comment about the pad swept area but hoping the hat is the same for both since I see a lot of area left below the swept area in the rear. Maybe @MountainPass can chime in.
 
Sorry maybe I wasn’t clear. I have the base rear rotors and caliper setup. I just upgraded to MPP rotors only. Now I’m considering changing the caliper out to a Performance caliper. Seeing that the MPP rotor upgrade for the performance gets rid of the step lip and is the same diameter of the MPP base rotor....can I swap out the caliper only? I understand the comment about the pad swept area but hoping the hat is the same for both since I see a lot of area left below the swept area in the rear. Maybe @MountainPass can chime in.

Do you have a photo of the pad sweep area on the MPP rotor? That may answer the question. It's about ~5mm more for the Performance Calipers.

It would make some sense for MPP to use the same rotors for PUP and Base rears as the difference is so small.
 
Do you have a photo of the pad sweep area on the MPP rotor? That may answer the question. It's about ~5mm more for the Performance Calipers.

It would make some sense for MPP to use the same rotors for PUP and Base rears as the difference is so small.

You are correct...there’s about a 5mm or less of a difference between the two rotors but it “looks” like it might work since there is a non glazed area in both. If I can mount the performance caliper on the base rotor and the pad surface not touch the hat I should be golden.
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With the higher brake temps of running laps in a heavy car, i'm thinking more carefully of which lube to use when servicing the calipers and pads. With prior cars, I'd previously just used the same silicone lube on pins and pads not worrying too much about it. Reading up on it, this seems like the right type of approach:
  • Lubricate metal-to-rubber friction points (guide pins to boots) with silicone lube
  • Lubricate metal-to-metal friction points (brackets to guides/guides to pads) with a Molybdenum Disulfide lube, commonly called Moly Lube
Are there better additives to Moly these days? This stuff seems well regarded:Silaramic® Brake System Grease, 5 Wt Oz

What do people who push their brakes recommend?
 
2020 Tesla Model 3 Performance rear brake pad change.
Tracking a M3P will use up the stockpads quickly. The front pads seem to last longer than the rears. Fronts are easy to change but the rears with the parking brake will need special attention. Below is the writeup for replacing the rear pads. Carbotech XP10 used.


Tesla rear brake job

1 Will need channel locks, screwdriver flat, brake pad spreader 12 V battery with alligator clips, torx socket, torque wrench set to 77 foot pounds, bungy cord, brakecleen, compressed air blower nozzle, portable grinder ( for tabs??) syringe to suck out fluid

2 need to remove brake fluid from Reservoir or will overflow

3 when car is jacked up put car in tow mode. Immediately remove both rear parking brake electrical connections. Tow mode will remain on entire duration at this point

4 remove torx caliper bolts. Spread brake pads apart enough to remove from rotor area. Use bungee cord to hang caliper to upper control arm. Attach negative alligator clip from battery to square end of plug, attach positive alligator clip to round area of plug. Apply current at five second intervals. Approximately 10 to 15 seconds required to retract parking brake piston. At that point use either channel locks, screwdriver with wooden block, or brake pad spreader’s with old pad to push piston all the way back to flush with caliper body.

PARKING BRAKE RETRACT.jpg



5 once piston is retracted and old pads are out, use brakecleen and compressed air, to clean brake pad wing support areas where pads insert in the caliper. Check new pads to see if wings fit into tabs in outer area of caliper. May need to grind less than 1 mm on the upper end of pads tabs. Pads require tight fit and should not jiggle in outer portion of caliper. If ground too much use that pad on the inside portion of the caliper (in spring clips) adjacent to the piston.

6 once new pads are installed reapply caliper to car, torque bolts to 77 foot pounds, gently depress brake pedal few times to pump up piston/ pads to rotor and then reconnect electrical connections and paint mark bolts

7 if doing only rears, you’re finished. If doing fronts proceed with fronts. Once everything is together paint marked and checked, gently depress brake pedal again to confirm firm pedal and remove the vehicle from tow mode. Vehicle then is finished

8 Bed pads on highway if needed.
 
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Reactions: dfwatt
Guys I said a few things on original post that was wrong about !...I said that this upgrade was for aesthetics only and you wouldn't stop faster/better...I was wrong...I am selling my car now and took the performance brakes off and put originals back on...there is a big difference in pedal feel, bite and imho stopping power...despite many people saying stopping power is all about tire size/contact and gripping power, this doesn't feel like its the case...these performances brakes definitely feel better and grip better.

So I'd say its 75% aesthetics and 25% feel and performance.
 
Guys I said a few things on original post that was wrong about !...I said that this upgrade was for aesthetics only and you wouldn't stop faster/better...I was wrong...I am selling my car now and took the performance brakes off and put originals back on...there is a big difference in pedal feel, bite and imho stopping power...despite many people saying stopping power is all about tire size/contact and gripping power, this doesn't feel like its the case...these performances brakes definitely feel better and grip better.

So I'd say its 75% aesthetics and 25% feel and performance.


Feel? Sure. Various braking system changes can tweak the feel of the system to a drivers preference for sure.

Actually stop you any shorter? Physics says that's not possible.

I'd again suggest reading this:

GRM Pulp Friction


tl;dr if you can engage ABS, which even the stock brakes EASILY can, then MOAR BRAKING POWER doesn't stop you any shorter. It physically can't.
 
MMP BBK installed. Very smooth install! With 18” Titan7 TS5’s they fit will good clearance. What do others do to prevent hitting larger calipers with the wheel barrels? Even lightweight Titan7’s are hard to take off perfectly straight. I might start hanging a thin towel over the calipers each time.
 

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Does anyone know the part numbers for the slider bolts on the rear performance brakes? I overtorqued them at first and although they loosened up again I want to get some spares. My local service center claims to have them but they also said both bolts appear to be the same size but I know that’s not true! One is a 6mm hex and the other (lower) is an 8mm hex.
 
Does anyone know the part numbers for the slider bolts on the rear performance brakes? I overtorqued them at first and although they loosened up again I want to get some spares. My local service center claims to have them but they also said both bolts appear to be the same size but I know that’s not true! One is a 6mm hex and the other (lower) is an 8mm hex.
https://epc.tesla.com - looks like you're not aware about it.
 
I did look there but I didn’t see the bolts listed. Perhaps you can’t buy them on their own? I’m thinking the service centre is confusing the Caliper mounting lots for the sliding bolts/pins I’m referring to. Would prefer not to drive 1 hour each way just to find that out!
If you overtorque those bolts you damage calipers and not bolts.