Upper Control Arm Creak Options

[Tronguy]

Ha. Just found this thread. My 2018 M3 RWD got the Infamous Squeakies a couple-three days ago. After being told that it would be until late next week or July before the car could be seen and thinking that Destroyed Car was in the offing, took it to a local tire place that I trust.

They were good. Heard the noises driving it across the parking lot, got it up on a lift, and found that upper ball joint on the driver's side control arm. While they were calling Tesla about parts, I did a quick Google search on "Tesla upper control arm squeaks" and got hit over the head by the landslide of results.

Managed to call the local service center and, after some close questioning by the SA, they said (in no particular order):

• They've seen this lots, before.
• It's not dangerous, but truly annoying.
• A mobile tech can fix it (!). (Which I think is pretty good for a piece of the suspension.)

Earliest they can come and fix it is 6/27, this being 6/12 at the moment. But I'm planning on putting 500 miles on the car next week. Just to ask the cognoscenti: Besides the noise, any problem with this?

 

[DeepBlue3]

I believe it’s J, but not 100% sure.
Nope, looks like it’s G

"J" should be correct based on the parts catalog ( did more research since posting). The example posted looks like the Chinese made version. Note the black weight still bolted to the arm.

The Meyle's are almost 2 pounds lighter (700 grams), and don't have the black weight bolted on. Seems like a win win. They also upgraded the two bushings and made the ball joint diameter larger by 3 mm.

HD-Control Arm Tesla Evanexx has a deal on them but they're not available until September. They're available on Ebay today however.


I'm curious if anyone has a photo of the OEM "J" revision and what the price is.

 

[android04]

Ha. Just found this thread. My 2018 M3 RWD got the Infamous Squeakies a couple-three days ago. After being told that it would be until late next week or July before the car could be seen and thinking that Destroyed Car was in the offing, took it to a local tire place that I trust.

They were good. Heard the noises driving it across the parking lot, got it up on a lift, and found that upper ball joint on the driver's side control arm. While they were calling Tesla about parts, I did a quick Google search on "Tesla upper control arm squeaks" and got hit over the head by the landslide of results.

Managed to call the local service center and, after some close questioning by the SA, they said (in no particular order):

• They've seen this lots, before.
• It's not dangerous, but truly annoying.
• A mobile tech can fix it (!). (Which I think is pretty good for a piece of the suspension.)

Earliest they can come and fix it is 6/27, this being 6/12 at the moment. But I'm planning on putting 500 miles on the car next week. Just to ask the cognoscenti: Besides the noise, any problem with this?

I drove over 1000 miles with the creak on my left FUCA before I had Tesla replace it under warranty. There is no danger with driving it this amount of miles.

 

[rayrevolver]

I'm curious if anyone has a photo of the OEM "J" revision and what the price is.

Had the J revision installed today at a service center. First time at a Tesla service center, pretty easy other than having to drive 1.5 hours to get there.

I can take pics but I am sure with them installed I won't get the angles you are looking for.

 

[Perscitus]

J are old parts guys, been this way since September last year... you want these or newer: Time to replace upper-control arm ball joints

 

[DeepBlue3]

What's the retail on those? Debating whether to get the Meyle's..

 

[pdx_m3s]

My driver side started creaking last week. Disconnected the ball joint and wiggled it around a bit to buy some more time. We’ll see how long it lasts. Will inject some grease next.

Car doesn’t even have 18k miles on it yet.

 

[DeepBlue3]

J are old parts guys, been this way since September last year... you want these or newer: Time to replace upper-control arm ball joints

@perscitus Whats the retail on the Tesla OEM part?

 

[Tronguy]

Well, the mobile tech came down this afternoon and, after a couple of hours, replaced both upper control arms.

Should have been afraid of this: Both boxes had a part number ending with a "-J". Guess I have the old ones. Well, that should take me another 50,000 miles, I guess.

Initial estimate was $370; revised, and what I paid, was $214. Which isn't bad, I guess, for a couple hours work. The arms were listed as $90 a piece.

Initial run around shows No More Squeaks. Boy, was that front left one noisy.

 

[pdx_m3s]

Well, the mobile tech came down this afternoon and, after a couple of hours, replaced both upper control arms.

Should have been afraid of this: Both boxes had a part number ending with a "-J". Guess I have the old ones. Well, that should take me another 50,000 miles, I guess.

Initial estimate was $370; revised, and what I paid, was $214. Which isn't bad, I guess, for a couple hours work. The arms were listed as $90 a piece.

Initial run around shows No More Squeaks. Boy, was that front left one noisy.

Smear a bunch of silicone sealant on the top of the ball joint.

 

[Tronguy]

Smear a bunch of silicone sealant on the top of the ball joint.

All over the top, on the top of the control arm? Where the "sealed" stud comes through, correct?

And, being stupid: Are we talking the same kind of silicone sealant that one uses on, say, a bathtub?

 

[pdx_m3s]

All over the top, on the top of the control arm? Where the "sealed" stud comes through, correct?

And, being stupid: Are we talking the same kind of silicone sealant that one uses on, say, a bathtub?

You want to seal the top. Silicone is silicone for the most part.

 

[Tronguy]

You want to seal the top. Silicone is silicone for the most part.

Got it. Thanks. That'll be a job for tomorrow, or whenever it stops raining around here.

 

[derotam]

I'm with you @Tronguy my 2018 LR RWD just got the squeakies too! Have a service center appt for 7/7.

 

[pdx_m3s]

Just injected some Valvoline moly grease into the joint. Should do the trick. I disconnected the upright so I could really work it in there.

 

[WhiteM3P-]

Just injected some Valvoline moly grease into the joint. Should do the trick. I disconnected the upright so I could really work it in there.

View attachment 962594

Kinda sad we even have to do this. But that definitely works.

 

[pdx_m3s]

Kinda sad we even have to do this. But that definitely works.

As a former BMW guy, something like this doesn’t bother me in the least.

 

[enemji]

Just injected some Valvoline moly grease into the joint. Should do the trick. I disconnected the upright so I could really work it in there.

View attachment 962594

I injected the valvoline synthetic moly fortified inside the squeaky pulley bearings of my Mercedes 3 years ago. Still running great.