Upper Rear Link Build (Reduces rear camber to improve tire wear)

[demundus]

Jan '13 P85 delivery here.

Certainly not an elegant solution, but I deployed a socket and vice for this simple soft aluminum press operation.
If I was to embark on this tire scrubbing, range robbing, tire eating effort at this time, I would start with a fresh new set ULs since the bushing diameter has been changed with upgraded materials as stated by #1 champ and I wouldn’t waste any time CAD/CAM the lighting “holes”.

So many thanks to #1 champ for helping guide me to achieve 51K miles from original set of 21 Contis and I will easily achieve the same service life on my second (now staggard) 21 Conti set currently at ~84,533 miles.

Good Luck!

When I designed mine for water cutting I skipped the holes as well.

 

[Donverse]

I would start with a fresh new set ULs since the bushing diameter has been changed with upgraded materials as stated by #1 champ and I wouldn’t waste any time CAD/CAM the lighting “holes”.

Linkster, thank you for your response. Can you elaborate on this? I'm not following what you're saying. Are you saying you would buy new upper links from Tesla instead of machining your own?

 

[linkster]

Since one can’t purchase the inboard or outboard UL bushings separately (without a complete UL) from Tesla, i would prefer to start with a fresh new set of the new and improved bushings since they are a wearable suspension component and the only way to sourcd said bushings is buy a new complete pair of ULs in order to harvest a new set of bushings or possibly a set from a low mileage S at a junkyard.

Lol, on an unrelated note, I will most likely “stretch” my M3 rear ULs just a tad by .100”.

 

[Donverse]

Got it, thanks for clarifying.

 

[demundus]

Got it, thanks for clarifying.

@AutobahnEV has several, I remember seeing last time I was there.

 

[M3GATR0N]

does this work for cars with static suspension. (coils)

 

[3mp_kwh]

does this work for cars with static suspension. (coils)

Yes. Whether eccentric busing (EV Tuning), or longer arms, pretty sure SAS or coil both see benefit.

If you have a coil car, your height is permanently set to about the middle of SAS. Tires may not wear so bad, at -1 degree, uless you're staggering 265's or greater. If you lower with shorter coils, or by "re-ringing" the lower spring perch down ~1", you'll start wearing your insides a lot more quickly (>-2 degrees).

It's early to judge tire wear, but using EV Tuning's bushings in fact did drop my negative camber a full degree. So, "low" setting is like the normal setting, @~1 degree negative. The other thing to bear in mind is, no matter whether you use bushings or arms, you won't drop negative camber much more without running into the limit of rear toe alignment (-that other eccentric will adjust rear toe only so much).

I was going to do a bigger review on these, but my time is being taken up at the intersection of MCUs and avoiding Tesla's updates. I can vouch for EV Tuning's bushings maintaining static camber (digital smart level). Others (earlier in the thread) questioned if the bushing lacked enough torsional play, as they mount to the sub-frame. By virtue of longer (more expensive) arms, retaining the inboard rubber bushing allows closer to the play Tesla allowed. This is a standing concern about using a more firm bushing. What I can say is, I haven't noticed any noises or other problems coming from what remains a rubber on metal interface, back there. Albeit more limited, there is still ~1mm of twist play along the outer diameter of AC Tuning's bushing.

In the end, I gotta say nice job EV Tuning / Electrified Garage!

 

[linkster]

I agree with @3mp_kwh post. I am very old and old school in that I grew up driving only solid live axle cars, no fancy expensive European cars with IRS and built in camber gain for handling. If one moves beyond a ~.250” increase in UL, like 3mp stated, you will run out of toe. I made some .250” long toes as I am fussy about wasting energy, reducing efficiency, and more importantly, replacing extremely expensive (to me) tires when there is a remaining 3/4 of the meat (impossible or beyond, but of course!) on the outer portion of the bone/tire.

 

[TurboFroggy]

Reviving this old thread. Finally a company has come out with these adjustable upper control arms that are going to be mass produced and not one-offs: N2itive Launches Rear Control Arms for Tesla Models S/X!

 

[sorka]

Cross your fingers but months away from shipping and no actual product yet is just like all the other failed launches.

You can already but a similar product for a similar price now from BBC speed machine.

 

[nwdrive]

Cross your fingers but months away from shipping and no actual product yet is just like all the other failed launches.

You can already but a similar product for a similar price now from BBC speed machine.

Are you sure they still make these? I asked them about getting a set and they never responded to me.

 

[sorka]

Are you sure they still make these? I asked them about getting a set and they never responded to me.

Did you call Joe directly at BBC? They don't do email so well.

 

[Tonypetrecca]

How do you get the inboard bolt out of the toe arm without cutting it?

 

[davidc18]

bump.

 

[N2itive]

Hi Tony, to remove the toe arm bolt without cutting it, you can drop the rear subframe but we find that cutting out the old one with an oscillating saw is the easiest method and can be done in under 60-seconds with a fresh blade. Hope this helps.

 

[Welbach1]

if you loosen both sides of the orig. camber link, and retorque it at the most out position, it will be good for around 0,5 deg. less camber.