Has anyone seen or anyone started a DIY repair thread or posts for Tesla owners for these type of repairs? With my typical ICE cars there were always videos of people doing their own repairs in detail or at least pictures to go with instructions on how to do the task.
Tesla repair videos are few and far between, unfortunately. I considered making some, but the folks in the local Tesla Club that I polled didn't seem to care. They're all "Take it to the SC" folks.
But to be honest, Tesla's are pretty simple to work on. There's far less grime and heat and mess than dealing with ICE cars, the components themselves are generally simpler to service or swap, and as long as you know what you're doing, it's hard to screw stuff up.
I've done a decent amount of suspension work on mine myself - suspension wise, they're quite similar to Mercedes (especially the air suspension....same exact air struts IIRC). Brakes are super straight forward too.
I have a 2017 Model X that I love. Never had any serious issues. Hit 65,000 miles and finally got a new set of tires/wheels/alignment/service done at Tesla Burbank. I got the car back and it didn't drive the same and then a squeaking noise began in the left right suspension when going over any little bump. I brought it to Tesla Centinela because Burbank didn't have appointments and they are now saying I need $7100 in repairs done. Replacing the control arms and brake pads. I told them i can't afford it and they said it was only necessary to fix the right side Control arm for $3300, fixing the left side would be preventative. If i wanted brake pad replace i was additional $900.... Are these prices outrageous? If i wanted to pick up the car to go get an opinion elsewhere i needed to pay a $400 "diagnosis fee". I've never had issues with anything Tesla before but this doesnt seem right?
I'm 99% confident that SB-17-31-001 (that another poster mentioned as well) is the resolution to your issues. My 5/2016 P90D is going in for service next week for that exact bulletin. Found out about it because the car failed two alignments and the caster kept creeping out.
The big front bushing on the control arm has an eccentric bolt that lets you adjust caster - if it gets micro-tears in it, your front wheels will be able to move forward and backward as the car moves. That means your steering will wander quite a bit, and you'll start to notice your wheels rub the fender liner randomly.
If you're out of warranty, replacing the front lower control arms is super easy - but you need to get an alignment when it's done.