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USB Device Malfunction

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Interesting. Can't say their responses have been great but they did tell me that they'd been in contact with Tesla about this.

Was yours the V2 hub and/or is the one the sent you, which still had problems, a V2? When they responded on January 1st, they said they couldn't duplicate the problem because it had only been happening on the V1 and they didn't have any of those to test. if it's now a V2 issue, they better be talking to Tesla.
 
Interesting. Can't say their responses have been great but they did tell me that they'd been in contact with Tesla about this.

Was yours the V2 hub and/or is the one the sent you, which still had problems, a V2? When they responded on January 1st, they said they couldn't duplicate the problem because it had only been happening on the V1 and they didn't have any of those to test. if it's now a V2 issue, they better be talking to Tesla.

They told me that they were sending me the "V2" hub, but frankly I cannot tell whether there's any difference between the one that arrived last week and the one I originally bought in November 2020. There are no model number markings on these devices.

I'd asked whether this was a Version 2 of the hub for pre-June 2020 Teslas (that is, with two USB A ports). They didn't answer that question, so it may well be that V2 in their world actually means the hubs for later models, with one USB A and one USB C port. The replacement they sent me has two USB A ports, so it will fit (but not work properly in) my car.

While they've told you they've been in contact with Tesla, they've never answered that question when I put it to them ... and I've done so at least three times. In fact, I've corresponded at least a dozen times with them; between that and the many times connecting and disconnecting this hub, trying different devices in it, trying system resets and so on they've consumed enough of my time to be worth the price of about 20 hubs.

Of course, their warranty lists "updates" as a non-supported failure, so they have an out when it comes to refunds.

They also told me that they didn't have any of the V1 hubs to test. (I guess they prefer to have customers do their QC and R&D for them. I've never before heard of a technology company failing to keep even one sample of a product they've sold.) If V1 actually means hubs for pre-June 2020 cars, then they indeed do have those hubs to test ... they're still selling them to people.

Not very effective communicators, this company. They recently started sending out emails promoting their next product, a magnetic SSD. It'll be a cold day in hell ...
 
They told me that they were sending me the "V2" hub, but frankly I cannot tell whether there's any difference between the one that arrived last week and the one I originally bought in November 2020. There are no model number markings on these devices.

I'd asked whether this was a Version 2 of the hub for pre-June 2020 Teslas (that is, with two USB A ports). They didn't answer that question, so it may well be that V2 in their world actually means the hubs for later models, with one USB A and one USB C port. The replacement they sent me has two USB A ports, so it will fit (but not work properly in) my car.

While they've told you they've been in contact with Tesla, they've never answered that question when I put it to them ... and I've done so at least three times. In fact, I've corresponded at least a dozen times with them; between that and the many times connecting and disconnecting this hub, trying different devices in it, trying system resets and so on they've consumed enough of my time to be worth the price of about 20 hubs.

Of course, their warranty lists "updates" as a non-supported failure, so they have an out when it comes to refunds.

They also told me that they didn't have any of the V1 hubs to test. (I guess they prefer to have customers do their QC and R&D for them. I've never before heard of a technology company failing to keep even one sample of a product they've sold.) If V1 actually means hubs for pre-June 2020 cars, then they indeed do have those hubs to test ... they're still selling them to people.

Not very effective communicators, this company. They recently started sending out emails promoting their next product, a magnetic SSD. It'll be a cold day in hell ...

Not to waste any more of your time but I'm curious if the box may have had some markings. My V1 hub box has the sku # JUH001 so I wonder if the V2 hub might be JUH002. I agree that it makes no sense to not have at least one of every model you've sold, especially when still in use, and, if yours is actually the V2, they've obviously known that it's not limited to the V1s. They did say it was only happening in the pre-June 2020s but that doesn't seem to be the case either.

Despite their initial response to me, things have been quiet but I haven't had much more to share with them. I know others have complained about their communication but, at least initially, they've responded to my questions even though follow up tends to lag after that point.
 
While the hub is likely not the primary problem, we’re dealing with two companies who have demonstrated poor customer communication skills so, if one has amassed feedback/data, it sure would be nice if we could convince them to share with the other which has even fewer avenues for customer feedback.
 
For some people upthread however, removing the hub and directly using the ports resolved the issue for them though.

It didn't. It masked it. Temporarily at best. The problem is not the Jeda hub or any other hub, it's a problem that Tesla has introduced. By working with these hub manufacturers, you're taking pressure off of Tesla, which is where the issue needs to be focused. Only Tesla controls the power to these ports.

At this point, this issue has gotten out of hand for me. With or without a thumbdrive plugged in, my car now issues multiple alerts in a row, and the best Tesla has offered me is "We know it's a problem". A "problem" would be if my dashcam repeatedly disconnected or I couldn't charge a phone. Listening to the damn alert noise over and over is much more than a problem.

So please, stop wasting Jeda's time, and start hounding Tesla.
 
I don’t have a hub at all and I only connect the usb device. I have tried flash disk, a SD adapter with USB and now on Sandisk SSD and I keep getting this usb problem and it disables the camera. It is maddening!


I have noticed that it just goes off randomly and comes back randomly (console reset doesn’t fix it)

On a couple of occasions it seems like a bump in the road causes the usb device error to come up but maybe it was just a coincidence.

does this mean I should not waste my time going to the service center since the problem appears to be wide spread without a fix?
 
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does this mean I should not waste my time going to the service center since the problem appears to be wide spread without a fix?

I say take their time. If they "know" about this issue, they need to do better collecting cases and not scheduling visits. So if they aren't even taking this seriously enough to groom their service tickets, I say burn some of their tech time.
 
Anyone noticed an improvement regarding this issue with the latest maintenance release?

Nope. It's as bad as ever. I'm going to re-open a case with Tesla and tell them I expect mobile service to come replace the USB hub. It's beyond annoying listening to the stupid alert noise over and over, or not being able to charge devices in the device charging ports.
 
I took mine in for service (they changed from mobile to service center for some reason) and their response was that the owners manual says not to use hubs. They even said they downloaded logs and would use them as evidence against warranty claims if there’s ever damage to the computer.

First, the OM simply says that hubs “can prevent connected devices from charging or from being recognized by Media Player, Sentry Mode, Dashcam, etc.” There’s no mention of potential damage to the computer and, thus, no justification for their warranty rant. Second, they didn’t appear to do any actual testing (since they used the OM cop out) nor did they explain why it had suddenly started throwing the error with a particular firmware update despite normal functionality. Finally, they failed to fulfill the main goal of the visit which was to pass this feedback up to the software guys who caused it.

Luckily, I was able to reach Tesla via chat and raised the concern which may or may not get up the chain. I was told some things in the media system got broken with updates and are on the list to be fixed (maybe with v11 but no guarantees). What I didn’t do (and I’m still trying to decide how to do) is dispute the warranty remark on the invoice (one of two on that invoice - other about b-pillar obscuration issue). Too bad there’s no way to really call a manager at stand-alone service centers.

All in all, very disappointed in my local Tesla service center. Should’ve been a mobile but, once they switched it, I left the car with them for 4 days only to have them poo-poo all concerns in less than 4 hours.

Good luck.
 
I started having this problem with one of the early 2021 updates. I have an SSD for Sentry and a USB flash for music.

If I remove the music drive, I seem to not get the persistent USB malfunction message that stays on the screen the entire trip.

The temporary one usually happens within a minute of me getting into the car and every 10 minutes or so. It causes my Sentry drive to stop recording, eject, and start recording again after a few seconds. A couple times this caused the drive to stop being recognized until I did a repair from my PC.
 
I'm opening another support case today and requesting replacement of the USB hub (the Tesla one behind the console). I'm unable to charge mobile phones, or use the TeslaCam feature, so at this point a part of the car that's supposed to be working is broken, and I'm done screwing around.
 
I don't know if someone said it here but check the power requirements of the usb devices you plug in. At least on my 2020, the maximum power each front port can provide is 1A, which is really not lot. Plugging a hub means you plug multiple things on that same 1A port, it's easy to surpass the limit. Many people use SSDs and you'd be surprised how much power these need compared to a usb key. I suggest you start my verifying that you are under 1A on each port, limiting the devices you plug, to see fi that helps.
I have a hub that squeezes in and plugs in both ports simultaneously, i just don't know if its a jeda or other. I believe this has a controller that takes both 1A sources and can distribute the power (2A total) among the plugged devices. That could help, or maybe in some cases this power management is the culprit...
 
I don't know if someone said it here but check the power requirements of the usb devices you plug in. At least on my 2020, the maximum power each front port can provide is 1A, which is really not lot. Plugging a hub means you plug multiple things on that same 1A port, it's easy to surpass the limit. Many people use SSDs and you'd be surprised how much power these need compared to a usb key. I suggest you start my verifying that you are under 1A on each port, limiting the devices you plug, to see fi that helps.
I have a hub that squeezes in and plugs in both ports simultaneously, i just don't know if its a jeda or other. I believe this has a controller that takes both 1A sources and can distribute the power (2A total) among the plugged devices. That could help, or maybe in some cases this power management is the culprit...


The front USB-A ports (before they changed them over to offer USB-C) were capable of outputting ~2.5 amps each -though you might need whatever you're plugging in to be capable of negotiating that (which is why folks with dumb hubs usually got really slow charging)

Navaks original splitter for example split that 2.5 amps from one USB-A port to provide 2.1 amps on its charger only port, and 400ma on its data port.

 
@Knightshade , it is great if that is true. I've read the 1A thing a few times, and see so many people with USB issues that it seems highly plausible. With that said, maybe that was for older models and they boosted the power... Do you know of a reference we can lookup that would officially state that, or someone that tested it somehow?
 
I suspect you saw someone testing with a device that couldn't talk to the car to tell it it was compatible with a standard that took more than 1 amp.

Hence why when I had a "dumb" USB hub from Anker I got 0.9 amps on a port, but when I switched to the Navak I had no trouble getting the full 2.1 on the charge port while still having the 0.4 available on the data port.
 
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