MosquitoFloss
Member
The RPMTesla guy posted a great video for his Qi charger setup showing exactly how to run a cable from the 12v around the panel piece and into the front center console area. It looked pretty straightforward.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
The RPMTesla guy posted a great video for his Qi charger setup showing exactly how to run a cable from the 12v around the panel piece and into the front center console area. It looked pretty straightforward.
That video is here. I used it to help me route power to this powered USB hub. (I really like Anker products - they've been really solid and the few times I've had issues, their customer service has been outstanding.)
Regarding how well the hub works with USB sticks: I have two sticks full of FLAC files, one 16GB and one 256GB. I can plug them both into the hub simultaneously and the Model 3 recognizes both and loads them. I can play music from either one. Even have some 24bit / 96kHz FLAC files that play back fine.
I originally intended to disassemble the center console and tap into the 12V line going to the lighter socket. But that looked to be a real PITA, so for now I'm using a 12V lighter to 5V USB adapter and a USB-A to micro-USB cable.
Was only able to pull about 0.4A from each port, though. Haven't finished troubleshooting to see if that's the fault of the hub, the wire, or the 12V to 5V adapter.
TL;DR: RPM Tesla video is great, and FLACS play fine through USB hubs.
ummgood
Member
Hey @Andrew when you connect your hub to the front port and then the phone to that port what type of charge rate do you get now that the car can do 2A to the front ports? We have 2 iPhone X and I want to have a Sandisk 128GB media thumb drive connected at the same time to the front ports. We are going on a road trip starting late next week so I wanted to see how it worked for you.
It worked just fine.. wasn't crazy-fast charging, but it does increase the charge even when running Waze. You'll be just fine -- and if you do find you need a faster recharge at some point, you can simply plug in to one of the rear charge ports for a little while.
I've since switched to the Jeda wireless charging pad...that definitely charges a lot slower, though I haven't used it enough to get a sense of how it'll be on a road trip.
This is the one I ended up buying, by the way. Still using it with the Jeda pad (both sides plugged in) and the USB memory stick for music, and it's working fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=eatirule-20&tag=tmc064-20
Fusion
Member
Just to add to this discussion. From what I have read, an iPhone (model 5-10) can draw up to 1.7 amps when charging from low power levels. Just like a Tesla, as the amount of charge gets higher, the amount of amperage draw goes down. I have a usb plug which shows how much amperage the device is drawing. As I recall, at around 50% charged my phone draws 1.0 amps. I have never tested the USB ports in my S with a discharged device. The iPads used to ship with 2.0 or 2.1 amp chargers. Despite the ability to draw more than 1.0 amps, the iphones still ship with 1.0 amp chargers. I have heard some say they can't charge their phone while talking on it with a 1.0 amp charger. That makes sense to me. There are lots of 2.0 amp multi plugs (where each plug has 2.0 amps available). And many manufacturers either try to trick the buyer by not saying or saying that it's TWO AMPS TOTAL for two plugs (i.e. 1 amp max each) or using watts. Keep in mind that all USB's are 5 volts and watts are volts times amps. Thus a single USB with 2 amps is 10 watts.
I can't comment on running wires to the dash, but trying to charge any most high end devices with 1 amp will be slow if it's got less than 50% power. Another way of saying this is that 2.0 amps will be faster in some instances for some devices depending on the state of charge and how that device controls the power.
Just don't get fooled with the purchases. If they don't say on the box, get a pair of reading glasses and read the print on the device. Look for watts and divide by 5 or look for amps and divide by the number of USB plugs to get the maximum per plug.
And for charging, forget the built in USB ports at 1 amp. Someone asked why put 1.0 amp plugs in. Why provide 802.11g in their wifi?
I can't comment on running wires to the dash, but trying to charge any most high end devices with 1 amp will be slow if it's got less than 50% power. Another way of saying this is that 2.0 amps will be faster in some instances for some devices depending on the state of charge and how that device controls the power.
Just don't get fooled with the purchases. If they don't say on the box, get a pair of reading glasses and read the print on the device. Look for watts and divide by 5 or look for amps and divide by the number of USB plugs to get the maximum per plug.
And for charging, forget the built in USB ports at 1 amp. Someone asked why put 1.0 amp plugs in. Why provide 802.11g in their wifi?
I actually just posted a how-to on doing this. I added two more USB ports to the front using the 12v accessory port wiring. This method keeps the 12v port itself free for other uses and results in an even cleaner look. The new ports are only 1 amp because going higher adds some complexity (assuming the device adheres to charging standards). Still gets the job done unless you for some reason need really fast charging.
How-to add USB ports for more power
ummgood
Member
Thanks! I'll get that one then. What port do you plug the cable into or does it matter?
I probably would have went that route but I am asking 9 days before we leave. I am super busy this weekend so I don't have time to rip my car apart and I am scared I would not get it back together before the trip. So I might try that later if the cheap hub approach above doesn't work as needed.
Doesn't seem to matter... though I plug the hub in to one of the two front ports, and then plug one charging cable into that and the USB memory stick. Then I connect one of the other charging cables directly to the other port.
ummgood
Member
Doesn't seem to matter... though I plug the hub in to one of the two front ports, and then plug one charging cable into that and the USB memory stick. Then I connect one of the other charging cables directly to the other port.
Thanks that is what I was planning on doing.
I saw a post where someone used the RPM installation method but instead of just two USB cables they installed one of these instead...
Anker 50W 5-Port USB Car Charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OHE8AOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bZlEBb3M9XTKW
That’s probably the solution I’m going to use.
Reeler
Decade of Pure EV Driving
I have two USB drives that work just fine in my Model S. When I plug them into the Model 3 ports they are seen, but show zero files. Any thoughts?
Reeler
Decade of Pure EV Driving
Microfrost
Member
ggulik
Member
How did you get it to work?
I have a USB drive that worked in my Model S, works when plugged directly into the front ports on the Model 3 but is not recognized when plugged into that USB adapter you mention. The USB drive has a tiny LED showing when it's accessed and it doesn't even flash when plugged into this device.
Similar threads
