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USB Media for Tesla - great deal

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I wonder how these would fair in high temperature environment inside the car during summer? I've had a few older USB memory sticks fail in my previous car already, which I suspect is due to heat.

Any decent USB flash memory should be able to withstand significant temperature tolerances as there are no moving parts:

http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/d...erance-(waterproof,-temperature,-magnetic-and
"SanDisk SD, SDHC, microSD and microSDHC memory cards are capable of withstanding operating temperatures from -13ºF to 185ºF (-25ºC to 85 ºC)." -- This is back in 2009 so the tolerances might be even better now.
 
I wonder how these would fair in high temperature environment inside the car during summer? I've had a few older USB memory sticks fail in my previous car already, which I suspect is due to heat.

Any decent USB flash memory should be able to withstand significant temperature tolerances as there are no moving parts:

http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/d...erance-(waterproof,-temperature,-magnetic-and
"SanDisk SD, SDHC, microSD and microSDHC memory cards are capable of withstanding operating temperatures from -13ºF to 185ºF (-25ºC to 85 ºC)." -- This is back in 2009 so the tolerances might be even better now.
Info at Amazon indicates the stick operates at up to 113 degrees F, but can be stored at up to 158.
 
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Stop using USB sticks, get an SSD instead. Faster scanning and way more reliable since you'll mainly be reading from it.

+1. I agree. Especially if your media is all high resolution lossless media. Our lossless media library is about 300GB.

It's too bad they didn't install a USB port in the glove compartment so the SSD drive can be hidden from view. I can't stand to see dangling cables and wires in a car interior.
 
Guys, for those who ordered the drive, can you tell me what the File System by default is on it?
I formatted mine for some other stuff I needed and now I'm stuck with either NTFS and exFAT. I've found a workaround solution with FAT32Format application, but want to format it to it's default, so it can be read easily.
 
Guys, for those who ordered the drive, can you tell me what the File System by default is on it?
I formatted mine for some other stuff I needed and now I'm stuck with either NTFS and exFAT. I've found a workaround solution with FAT32Format application, but want to format it to it's default, so it can be read easily.

I'm pretty sure no drives every come formatted with NTFS since it requires encryption.
 
around $30 is the current price for a 128G USB. Nothing special, Frys, newegg has them, I saw COSTCO has them . I wouldn't worry if you miss this deal that isn't really a deal
Costco has 128 gig on sale to the end of the month for $25. I picked one up and tested it out, works fine no need to re format.

- - - Updated - - -

Lexar JumpDrive S25 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive
 

Right now it's $38. As we all know, Amazon changes prices constantly. If you look at it twice, Amazon will often raise the price because it knows you might want it.

Anyway, I'm listening to my music right now, so can't pull it out to see which version I got, but from what I recall, I got the largest version, probably the one listed at 128GB on Amazon for $38 right now.

I can't find the thread here where someone said it works well with Model S USB. After reading that thread is when I bought it. I just want to report back my experience of it, for two reasons.

My experience with it has been flawless. I have never had trouble with it, ever, at all, ever since I got it. In fact, during service I usually remember to put it into my loaners, and no loaner has ever had a problem, either. It just works.

The other thing I wanted to report is that I formatted it with Linux's ext4 file system. I have never tried any other file system. Linux's ext4 file system is native to Linux. This makes it easy to format and manage from a Linux computer. But better than that, it also makes it work flawlessly in Teslas, because all Teslas use Linux, and mount the USB disk seamlessly and natively.

It works fast, and without problems.

I should add that after reading many reports here about very long directory listing lengths (many entries in a directory) being difficult to handle due to implementation issues in the Tesla software and no alphabetic index, I made sure to give all my music on this USB drive very rich depth in the directory structures, with as limited size directories as I could sensibly do in an organized fashion. This has also worked very well. I continue to leave it working like this even though Tesla may have made their software better to handle bigger directories.

And finally, I should add that I always use lossless highest sample rate compatible FLAC. I never use lossy compression. I think I've just always used ffmpeg to convert lossless Apple iTunes CD files. It's still crappy CD quality, but at least it's not any further compromised than that. If you're doing this, remember to tell iTunes to use lossless in its CD saving settings (before reading a CD into iTunes), because, by default, Apple iTunes uses lossy.

Of course, none of this has anything to do with the crappy Tesla audio sound system quality, nor the evolving Tesla user interface. I just wanted to remark that this USB hardware choice and the ext4 file system choice are both solid choices. Your mileage will vary, but this is a decent start for the USB music crowd.
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong: USB sticks are SSD.

It's quite a fuzzy line, especially when you're looking at large USB sticks. Both contain flash chips with some sort of controller handling the flash translation layer, and present a disk target using a common protocol.

Something sold as an SSD normally contains more individual flash chips, has more slack space, and a more complex FTL (better wear leveling, better garbage collection). A high end USB stick will be very similar, but a low end USB stick will be very different.
 
Two thoughts:
1. I used the low profile 128GB SanDIsk for months after I first purchased my MS. it worked great, except that the silver portion that connects into the USB socket gets so hot to the touch, I eventually became concerned about what they may or may not do to my MS... I replaced it and have tried a number of other sticks since then -- see the "Comprehensive USB" thread for a bunch of comments on various sticks I have tried, attempting to lessen some of the spurious USB failures many of us incur.

2. IMHO, from a consumer-perspective for use in a MS, the big difference between a normal USB stick and an SSD Is speed. Real USB SSD, such as the PNY I have in my MS now is a much better price performer if you're looking for large storage size and want something that can be written to by your PC or Mac much faster than nearly and "normal" USB sticks out there. Speed of curse varies widely from device-to-device, and in my testing, one can't believe most of the stats you see from the mfgrs in practical use -- again, if you like detail, see other posts of mine for observations on different mfgrs, and the ones I've replaced many times because of failures with varying success. In any case, speed just doesn't matter as much for playback -- it does when you want to erase, change, or add to the device at your desk.