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Used Model S signature for 27k, 52k miles

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Forgive the elementary question: brand new to this website, thanks in advance for the advice.
My situation may be familiar to some of you. I am giving serious thought to purchasing a used Model S (details referenced above) currently have a SUV and gas prices are killing me, currently spending around 380 a month in gas but my car is paid off.
I am not eager to get into another car payment situation but I figure if the car payment is less than 380-380 a month then you get my point.

what are other average charges that would come into play? I already know that my car I insurance will go up about 18 dollars a month. But what about charging battery at home? What’s the average cost to my electrical bill? I am I. Sales and drive about 100 miles 4 days a week. The Tesla I’m interested in is a 2012 Model S
 
When I was driving a lot (about 400 to 500 weekly) before COVID-19, I would see about $100 extra on my electric bill, but a direct comparison from PA to FL can't be made. Electrical prices vary wildly from one location to another.

I just checked my bill and, including all fees, taxes and surcharges, 11.5 cents per kWh roughly. (I divided total bill by number of kWh consumed during the billing cycle.) I don't have a TOU plan or tiered charges, every consumed kWh is subject to the same charge.
 
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As a previous Signature S owner, I’d only consider buying that car if it had a pack replacement. Mine that I sold last year was still on an A pack and I didn’t want to own that out of warranty, which would be your situation. FYI I sold a near perfect shape Sig Red S with 100k kms for $30k Canadian. I could have got a little more but Tesla offered very little on trade in.
 
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You will not save money putting 400 miles a week on an out of warranty extremely early production Model S.

What’s plan B?
That’s a good question and thanks
I am perplexed
Continue to put more miles on my MDX ? Pay more for gas (gas prices going up) or do I trade in the MDX now and get what I can for it it already has 141k miles

that’s why I was thinking electric
 
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Electricity is pretty cheap in Florida, so your savings will probably be significant.

Hard thing with buying an out of warranty used car, is that you can never know for sure how much maintenance/repairs that will be needed. While Teslas routinely are pretty cheap to run compared to ICE equilivents there will be some risk on

The Tesla you are considering is pretty low mileage...so there is that...

There are also additional issues to be considered, other than money. The Tesla is an amazing car with great performance, good looks, and handling. You will love not needing to stop at dirty/smelly gas stations as your Tesla will charge quietly over night, giving you fresh range every morning. For long distance travel the amazing Supercharging network will be there for you as well.
 
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I was paying around $240 a month for my fuel use on my commute (about 90 miles, round trip). I bought am early car (2013 P85), which has a replaced pack, DU, and emmc upgrade, warranty has ended. I am seeing an increase in my electric bill increase by $100 for home charging. I do charge after 10p, Car is set at 85% charge, using a 14-50/ gen 2 charger.
Kaveman
 
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An 2012 Model S is almost 10 years old and early Model S's were known to have serious quality issues. Basically the advice I have seen on this board is don't buy it unless the battery pack and motor have been replaced. Even so, it may depend on how long ago they were replaced and also be prepared for other things to break that will require maintenance. You are NOT buying a new 27k car, but a really old, originally expensive car. If anything breaks, you will really regret your purchase - and something(s) major is almost certain to break over the next 5 years (car will also probably be almost worthless after another 5 years, so there's that cost to think about too).

Basically don't buy a really old, out of warranty luxury car if that's all you can afford (or actually trying to save money).
 
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On the other hand, with a bit of luck, buying an older Model S with relatively low miles, might end up being a great financial way to drive an amazing car.
Someone else mentioned this in another thread, and I agree with it - I think in the case of an old Model S I'd actually prefer a high mile copy vs. a low one. A 2012 with 100,000+ miles has certainly had most of the troubling early components replaced with newer rev parts at least once, maybe 7 times. A low mileage "pristine" example that hasn't had as much opportunity for that crap to break is a nightmare waiting to happen.

I don't disagree with your premise, you could get lucky - but you've got to be able to pay to play. People financing ~$20,000 used cars generally don't have the financial cushion to absorb a massive unanticipated repair bill.
 
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Forgive the elementary question: brand new to this website, thanks in advance for the advice.
My situation may be familiar to some of you. I am giving serious thought to purchasing a used Model S (details referenced above) currently have a SUV and gas prices are killing me, currently spending around 380 a month in gas but my car is paid off.
I am not eager to get into another car payment situation but I figure if the car payment is less than 380-380 a month then you get my point.

what are other average charges that would come into play? I already know that my car I insurance will go up about 18 dollars a month. But what about charging battery at home? What’s the average cost to my electrical bill? I am I. Sales and drive about 100 miles 4 days a week. The Tesla I’m interested in is a 2012 Model S

These sort of questions are painful, how are strangers to know what you would spend on any car for your commute?! You didn’t give much info, please re read your question and ponder how anyone would know what YOU would save or spend.

I can say for your budget, if you are a Costco member, go buy a Chevy Bolt EV new 2020 or 2021 for ~ $26k before April 30, 2021

as your MDX is “miles per gallon “ and you know how many gallons and the cost per gallon, you know what you sped. Now

EV’s are miles per kWh. Sounds fancy, but it’s super simple. I am in Florida and pay about 15 cents per kWh after all the bs fees and taxes are included. If I get 3 miles per kWh then I spend about 5 cents a mile. Very simple. If i drive 90mph like I stole the EV my miles per kWh drop. If I am in chill mode and commute through traffic I might get 4 mile per kWh.
My gasoline car gets 16 mpg in stop and go and 26mpg at 70mph, but worse at 90mph. If I pay $4 gal and avg 20mpg that’s 20 cents per mile and I need $100 oil change every 6000 miles. So if you don’t drive many miles an ICE with no payment is cheaper than buying an EV with a payment. The more miles the more the EV saves. I have saved ~$6800 in 18 months with 28k miles on a Model 3, compared to the same miles in my CTS-v, it would have saved $10k+ or more compared to the same 28k miles in my F350 turbo diesel
 
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That’s a good question and thanks
I am perplexed
Continue to put more miles on my MDX ? Pay more for gas (gas prices going up) or do I trade in the MDX now and get what I can for it it already has 141k miles

that’s why I was thinking electric

Depending on your needs you can go halfway and get a Gen 2 Chevy Volt for well under $20k. This will net you ~50-60 miles of all electric range and the rest would be using the gas engine which gets around 40mpg. Depending on the MPG you are currently getting (MDX looks to be rated for 20 city/27 hwy), going this route can save you a lot of money.

If you really want a Tesla, I'd look mid-2015 at a minimum and purchase an X-care warranty on it but that would probably be double what you are looking to spend. Other options would be the Chevy Bolt for all electic or maybe a Tesla Model 3 (these can be found in the $35k range).
 
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As a data point for older Model S here (Sig car #393)- I had a number of items replaced on my car under warranty, which I expected considering my car is one of the first 400 Model S. This included: TPMS x2, sunroof, main touchscreen, drive unit and all 4 door handles.

Outside of warranty, I've had to replace the sunroof a second time, but that's it. Still running the original battery pack. 132k miles. Car has been great!
 
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Outside of warranty, I've had to replace the sunroof a second time, but that's it. Still running the original battery pack. 132k miles. Car has been great!
What was the cost of "Sunroof 2.5"? They quoted me $2,500; however, I found a shop in San Jose that repaired it (one motor, one cable), but it was still quite expensive ($1,000).

Just a head's up more-so than a cause for concern, by the original pack in mine ("Sig70" if you will) had its pack replaced at 163k miles, out of warranty. There is another on here with a sub-100 (?) Sig with a similar story. Start saving : )
 
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What was the cost of "Sunroof 2.5"? They quoted me $2,500; however, I found a shop in San Jose that repaired it (one motor, one cable), but it was still quite expensive ($1,000).

Just a head's up more-so than a cause for concern, by the original pack in mine ("Sig70" if you will) had its pack replaced at 163k miles, out of warranty. There is another on here with a sub-100 (?) Sig with a similar story. Start saving : )
Sunroof replacement was about $1800 IIRC. I love the sunroof, but a glass roof Model S is preferable just for the sake of mechanical complexity. My type A original 2012 battery pack is holding up fine, but my supercharger speeds more closely resemble that of a Chevy Bolt. I don't really use the Model S for roadtrips anymore unless it's a one-stop supercharger trip. Anything longer and I'm using the Model 3 or gas car. At some point, I'm going to have a 90kwh pack swapped in, but it's not a priority. Mainly want to battery swap for supercharger speeds, not range
 
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