I have some friends with post Sept2015 cars that interested in a cable, so I've sent some RFQs out to three suppliers of these Sumitomo connectors. Once I get some, I'll make them for anyone that wants one. I'd stick it in the Classifieds section, but the Panjo fees are dumb for something that small. I'll post back here once they're made and you can request them by PM.
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I have some friends with post Sept2015 cars that interested in a cable, so I've sent some RFQs out to three suppliers of these Sumitomo connectors. Once I get some, I'll make them for anyone that wants one. I'd stick it in the Classifieds section, but the Panjo fees are dumb for something that small. I'll post back here once they're made and you can request them by PM.
Chris, perhaps a picture of what you have made so far?
Also, please share the Quote details, for the shells, and the pins.
Thanks for your kindness.
Also, please share the Quote details, for the shells, and the pins.
Thanks for your kindness.
In version 0.0.14 of TM-Spy, you can select from "standard" graphs that are supplied
with the app, AND you can add definitions for your own one-value or two-value plots/graphs.
When you are using the app, you would go to Settings to select the Plot Name of the
graph that you want to see, but that graph (presently) does not replace the "old" graph
until the first data point is discovered for the new graph. Then, "poof" the old data and
graph are replaced by the new graph. I hope this little wrinkle changes, but getting
this new graphing tested and debugged (if necessary) is more important.
If plotting two values, both must come from the 8 (or less) data bytes that are found
with the one msgID (CAN message Identification number) that you specify for your plot.
Some examples of extracting values from the data bytes D1 through D8:
A single byte value in D3 wiith the range 0 to 200 ... 3, 255, 0 ... which means byte
D3 masked with 0xFF (or 255) shifted up by 0 bits (not shifted). Max value to plot
set to 200, and the min to zero.
Two bytes (D7 as most significant, and D6 as least significant) as a two byte
signed integer, typically in the range of +/- 20,000 perhaps for motor RPM.
Use 7,255,8 and 6,255,0 with Max plot set to 20000, and the min plot set to
-20000 ... and the "signed integer" (2's compliment) checked (use value 1
instead of 0 in that field).
Of course, there are a few other fields of significance, but those in a later post,
because SWMBO wants to go out to lunch now.
with the app, AND you can add definitions for your own one-value or two-value plots/graphs.
When you are using the app, you would go to Settings to select the Plot Name of the
graph that you want to see, but that graph (presently) does not replace the "old" graph
until the first data point is discovered for the new graph. Then, "poof" the old data and
graph are replaced by the new graph. I hope this little wrinkle changes, but getting
this new graphing tested and debugged (if necessary) is more important.
If plotting two values, both must come from the 8 (or less) data bytes that are found
with the one msgID (CAN message Identification number) that you specify for your plot.
Some examples of extracting values from the data bytes D1 through D8:
A single byte value in D3 wiith the range 0 to 200 ... 3, 255, 0 ... which means byte
D3 masked with 0xFF (or 255) shifted up by 0 bits (not shifted). Max value to plot
set to 200, and the min to zero.
Two bytes (D7 as most significant, and D6 as least significant) as a two byte
signed integer, typically in the range of +/- 20,000 perhaps for motor RPM.
Use 7,255,8 and 6,255,0 with Max plot set to 20000, and the min plot set to
-20000 ... and the "signed integer" (2's compliment) checked (use value 1
instead of 0 in that field).
Of course, there are a few other fields of significance, but those in a later post,
because SWMBO wants to go out to lunch now.
Okay, so two of the vendors have come back with a minimum of 100 or 1000 of the Sept2015+ Sumitomo connector.
I'm going to try some social engineering on one source to see if I can get 10-20 of these as a "sample". So far, I have 8 people interested in the newer model cable. If I can only get 100 of them, it would be a big risk at almost $5 a pop for JUST the Tesla side of the cable :|
If I had assurances the Model ≡ used the same connector, I'd probably spring for an order of 100.
Does the $5 include the pins, or just the housing?
I would get at least 10 connectors plus 100 pins from you to help with the minimum quantity problem.
And, possibly two or more finished adapters depending upon how you decide to build them.
The OBD female housing from Mouser is about $1.62 as I recall, plus pins.
I just got some of those recently.
Are you also going to make the adapters for the "classic" Model S?
What wire will you be using, perhaps 22 awg stranded, with twisted
pairs, one colored and one black. I plan to use the black in a twisted
pair as the Ground or the CANn-L (CAN low, or minus). So a black with a red
wire for power and ground, and a black and a green wire for CAN3.
For adapters intended for Logging applications, I intend to add three
more pair, using 3 different colors, each paired and twisted with a black.
However, I need to find my connector-crimping kit.
I would get at least 10 connectors plus 100 pins from you to help with the minimum quantity problem.
And, possibly two or more finished adapters depending upon how you decide to build them.
The OBD female housing from Mouser is about $1.62 as I recall, plus pins.
I just got some of those recently.
Are you also going to make the adapters for the "classic" Model S?
What wire will you be using, perhaps 22 awg stranded, with twisted
pairs, one colored and one black. I plan to use the black in a twisted
pair as the Ground or the CANn-L (CAN low, or minus). So a black with a red
wire for power and ground, and a black and a green wire for CAN3.
For adapters intended for Logging applications, I intend to add three
more pair, using 3 different colors, each paired and twisted with a black.
However, I need to find my connector-crimping kit.
Turbo3
Member
Here are a couple of screenshots from the iOS version of TM-Spy I am working on. Should have it ready for testing in a day or two.
Turbo3,
Wow, you have really learned a lot about apps over the last three years.
Congratulations, good Sir.
Now, we see that a TM-Spy Apple app version, for iOS devices, is coming soon.
There are WiFi ELM-type OBD dongles, and ver 4.0 LE (for low energy)
Bluetooth dongles (see following post) that will work, so they say, with iOS devices.
This app is might support both, but the LE Bluetooth from Amazon is recommended.
This should add some excitement, since many Tesla owners use iOS devices.
Is there, or will there be, a "Testing" group for the TM-Spy iOS app?
Wow, you have really learned a lot about apps over the last three years.
Congratulations, good Sir.
Now, we see that a TM-Spy Apple app version, for iOS devices, is coming soon.
There are WiFi ELM-type OBD dongles, and ver 4.0 LE (for low energy)
Bluetooth dongles (see following post) that will work, so they say, with iOS devices.
This app is might support both, but the LE Bluetooth from Amazon is recommended.
This should add some excitement, since many Tesla owners use iOS devices.
Is there, or will there be, a "Testing" group for the TM-Spy iOS app?
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Turbo3
Member
The recommended OBDII adapter for iOS is the LELink Bluetooth 4.0 LE (Amazon has it). I no longer recommend using WiFi OBDII adapters with iOS. The LELink auto connects (no pairing) and is low power.
For iOS I just need to add your email address to the tester's group. Apple uses TestFlight to manage app testing.
For iOS I just need to add your email address to the tester's group. Apple uses TestFlight to manage app testing.
faughtz
Model S P85DL
I'm using this:
Amazon.com: BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices: Automotive
with your app on my android tablet. Do you know of any reason it will not work on iOS? Of course the
BAFX app will not work on iOS, but why would the device not communicate over BT with your testflight app?
I'd like to be a part of your testflight, and will PM you my email.
Apparently the BAFX device referenced above works using standard Bluetooth, and it is
described as NOT for iOS use. Apple devices will only pair via Bluetooth with other
Apple, or Apple-blessed devices, and not with "normal" Bluetooth. So, I would guess
that this device will not pair with Apple iOS devices.
With the advent of Bluetooth 4.0 (called Low Energy, or LE), the more recent versions
of iOS devices will connect directly with other Bluetooth LE devices, with no pairing,
even with non-Apple devices. So, I see this LELink device on Amazon for $35:
Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad: Automotive
However, be sure that your iOS, or other non-Apple, device actually has the Bluetooth LE hardware
and system software to support connections to other Bluetooth LE devices, like this one. Some
later model Android devices might support Bluetoogh LE, but my older ones do not. It looks like
my "modern" LG G3 smartphone has the BT LE hardware, so I will try it out...
So, I just ordered one of the LELink devices from Amazon, and now they say ... Only 1 left.
However, here is another source that says that they have many in stock:
Lelink Bluetooth Low Energy Ble OBD II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone iPod | eBay
But I have not tried this source.
Cheers, Gary
described as NOT for iOS use. Apple devices will only pair via Bluetooth with other
Apple, or Apple-blessed devices, and not with "normal" Bluetooth. So, I would guess
that this device will not pair with Apple iOS devices.
With the advent of Bluetooth 4.0 (called Low Energy, or LE), the more recent versions
of iOS devices will connect directly with other Bluetooth LE devices, with no pairing,
even with non-Apple devices. So, I see this LELink device on Amazon for $35:
Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad: Automotive
However, be sure that your iOS, or other non-Apple, device actually has the Bluetooth LE hardware
and system software to support connections to other Bluetooth LE devices, like this one. Some
later model Android devices might support Bluetoogh LE, but my older ones do not. It looks like
my "modern" LG G3 smartphone has the BT LE hardware, so I will try it out...
So, I just ordered one of the LELink devices from Amazon, and now they say ... Only 1 left.
However, here is another source that says that they have many in stock:
Lelink Bluetooth Low Energy Ble OBD II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone iPod | eBay
But I have not tried this source.
Cheers, Gary
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faughtz
Model S P85DL
When Turbo3 releases the iOS version, I'll try it. I think the reason the BAFX device is stated as not working with apple is that their app is for android. I have several BT devices, that I suspect were not certified by apple, including artsi and danal's tesla applique' controller. They work fine on iOS. But that's why I asked if anyone knew for certain.
My answer is just what I have been told, since I do not have an iOS device, but I assume
that there is a lot of experience with Bluetooth compatibility from the iOS version of the Leaf Spy app.
Will your Bluetooth device successfully pair with iOS?
In Android, one uses the Settings (for Bluetooth) to pair the external BT device,
and one does not need an app to try that.
that there is a lot of experience with Bluetooth compatibility from the iOS version of the Leaf Spy app.
Will your Bluetooth device successfully pair with iOS?
In Android, one uses the Settings (for Bluetooth) to pair the external BT device,
and one does not need an app to try that.
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Charge and Drive Pack V, kW Graph
The end of a charging session, and a drive afterwards, about 20 minutes total,
from re-displayed saved graph data collected by v0.0.14 of TM-Spy:
Quite nice, right?
The real time scale was more like 0 to 1200 seconds (20 minutes).
The end of a charging session, and a drive afterwards, about 20 minutes total,
from re-displayed saved graph data collected by v0.0.14 of TM-Spy:
Quite nice, right?
The real time scale was more like 0 to 1200 seconds (20 minutes).
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Turbo3
Member
TM-Spy for iOS will only support the Bluetooth 4.0 LE version of Bluetooth which has no pairing (it still supports the older WiFi OBDII adapters too). The app will search for BT LE devices, verify if it is on the list of OBDII supported devices and then connect. Only then will you see it on the Bluetooth Settings page as being connected. Without an app first connecting to it, it will not show up on the Bluetooth page. Bluetooth 4.0 LE is totally different from any other Bluetooth so don't get worried when you don't see it on the iOS Bluetooth Settings page prior to running TM-Spy.
There are also two types of Bluetooth 4.0 LE adapters. Full support ones which connect to both iOS and Android as Bluetooth 4.0 LE devices (i.e. no pairing) and dual mode ones. In dual mode they support Bluetooth 4.0 LE for iOS and for Android they support the older Bluetooth which requires pairing.
The LELink and PLX Kiwi 3 are BT 4.0 LE in both iOS and Android. The Vgate, H580 and Viecar are only half BT 4.0 LE so for Android devices they look just like the old Bluetooth with pairing needed. There is also the Autophix BT 4.0 LE but this is a stripped down limited function (not ELM327 compatible) that only works with their app so limited to ICE vehicles. Also re branded by DNT. Stay away from those two.
Turbo3
Member
TM-Spy for iOS is starting to come to life graphing data from the CAN bus. Zoom has been added to make it easier to examine the graphs. Dropbox is also supported so the graph data files get automatically uploaded to your Dropbox.
Gary is providing a lot of good feedback on the Android version. Improvements to address those issues will be included in the next release.
Gary is providing a lot of good feedback on the Android version. Improvements to address those issues will be included in the next release.
Great project! I'd love to try it out.
May I suggest a wiki that explains all the necessary items and steps to get this going? It's not that easy to find the information in the twelve pages of this thread. I think the mods, if it's requested of them, can add a wiki to beginning of this thread.
May I suggest a wiki that explains all the necessary items and steps to get this going? It's not that easy to find the information in the twelve pages of this thread. I think the mods, if it's requested of them, can add a wiki to beginning of this thread.
Creating "real" test CAN data by using the LEAF's Car-CAN bus, and pumping the "gas" pedal.
Nicely done, Turbo3 ... looks like great progress on the iOS version.
I like the zoom of the time scale. Is that coming to the Android version also?
----------
The Help included in the Application is pretty good, and it can grow to match
the features actually incorporated in the app.
However, an editable (by whom) Wiki at the beginning of the thread would be great.
That is what I was trying to do with the first post of this thread, until I discovered
that I could no longer edit my post.
----------
In the Southern California area, preferably in Orange County or "near" Laguna Hills, do we have
a "late" (after Sept 2015) production Model S or Model X owner who is interested in trying TM-Spy?
These cars apparently have the "new" 20-pin style (Model X style) TDC (Tesla Diagnostics Connector),
instead of the "older" (or pre-Sept 2015) classic 12-pin TDC.
I would like to verify the location of the TDC in the later Model S, and in the Model X.
Does anybody know for sure how to safely access these connectors?
---------
I have (or can make) adapters for the classic 12-pin TDC, and have standard BT
ELM-type dongles to test, and I have Android devices.
---------
We still need a source for the housing and the 2 different pins that match the
"X-TDC", so if you can help there, please let us know.
Cheers, Gary
Nicely done, Turbo3 ... looks like great progress on the iOS version.
I like the zoom of the time scale. Is that coming to the Android version also?
----------
The Help included in the Application is pretty good, and it can grow to match
the features actually incorporated in the app.
However, an editable (by whom) Wiki at the beginning of the thread would be great.
That is what I was trying to do with the first post of this thread, until I discovered
that I could no longer edit my post.
----------
In the Southern California area, preferably in Orange County or "near" Laguna Hills, do we have
a "late" (after Sept 2015) production Model S or Model X owner who is interested in trying TM-Spy?
These cars apparently have the "new" 20-pin style (Model X style) TDC (Tesla Diagnostics Connector),
instead of the "older" (or pre-Sept 2015) classic 12-pin TDC.
I would like to verify the location of the TDC in the later Model S, and in the Model X.
Does anybody know for sure how to safely access these connectors?
---------
I have (or can make) adapters for the classic 12-pin TDC, and have standard BT
ELM-type dongles to test, and I have Android devices.
---------
We still need a source for the housing and the 2 different pins that match the
"X-TDC", so if you can help there, please let us know.
Cheers, Gary
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Turbo3
Member
The next release of TM-Spy will fill the data array with a value that does not plot instead of with zero that can mess up the auto scaling. It also fixes a bug with charging where the power does not automatically switch to the kW scale from the W scale (forget to use the ABS() function as power can be positive or negative).
Chris TX,.
Some might want a much shorter cable, and possibly a much more flexible cable,
to be able to fit the adapter cable and the mid-sized ELM-type Bluetooth dongle
up into the recess above the cubby, and still close the cubby. I have yet to try
this with the cubby fully closed. I will try tomorrow.
How are you intending to route or se this longer adapter cable?
Would a very small amount of paraffin wax on the cubby's two front clips
make it easier to pull down the open end of the cubby, and then push
it back up later, to get the open end of the cubby back in place?
CAUTION, do NOT pull the front down too much. You do NOT want
to pull out the two clips at the closed end of the cubby, because
getting that end back in place can be quite difficult.
NOTE: On some vehicles, at least those with an "installed" center console,
the TDC might have been moved to a position behind the "hockey stick"
shaped trim piece on the right side of the console area. The first step is
to locate the TDC in your car, see if it is the smaller "older" 12-pin connector
or the "newer" 20-pin connector, and plan where the adapter cable is
going to go, and where the dongle will be placed.
If you do not know, please consider asking for help.
Some might want a much shorter cable, and possibly a much more flexible cable,
to be able to fit the adapter cable and the mid-sized ELM-type Bluetooth dongle
up into the recess above the cubby, and still close the cubby. I have yet to try
this with the cubby fully closed. I will try tomorrow.
How are you intending to route or se this longer adapter cable?
Would a very small amount of paraffin wax on the cubby's two front clips
make it easier to pull down the open end of the cubby, and then push
it back up later, to get the open end of the cubby back in place?
CAUTION, do NOT pull the front down too much. You do NOT want
to pull out the two clips at the closed end of the cubby, because
getting that end back in place can be quite difficult.
NOTE: On some vehicles, at least those with an "installed" center console,
the TDC might have been moved to a position behind the "hockey stick"
shaped trim piece on the right side of the console area. The first step is
to locate the TDC in your car, see if it is the smaller "older" 12-pin connector
or the "newer" 20-pin connector, and plan where the adapter cable is
going to go, and where the dongle will be placed.
If you do not know, please consider asking for help.
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