The Valentine 1 has been my trusted friend for many years. It has saved my backside more times than I can count. I had to have it in my Roadster. But with the manual top, it is sometimes inconvenient. If I get out of the car, I either have to take it with me or put the top on. I've had K40 in other rides, but I prefer the V1. So I wanted a stealth installation (to avoid both sides of the law), a display close to the speedometer, and the ability to mute with either hand without taking my hands off the wheel or eyes off the road. I direct-wired the main unit, installed a remote display, and a custom accessory remote mute. The following is how I did it. It may apply to other detectors. You are free to use this as you wish, but I take no responsibility for what you do to your car. Main unit hidden behind visor: Remote display: Supplies used: V1 radar detector V1 remote display V1 Direct-wire power adapter Micro-tact switch. Momentary on. Approx. 9 mm tall RJ11 four conductor cables: two, approx. 6-7' lengths, two, approx. 2' lengths RJ11 splitter: female to dual female 3/4" perforated steel strapping tape sheet metal screw zip ties Shrink wrap tubing Tools used: Wire stripper Phillips and straight screw drivers Tin snips Soldering iron Hot glue gun Dremel rotary tool Drill & assorted bits Fish tape or wire coat hanger Plastic putty knife First, I opened and removed the fuse box door, then the storage compartment beneath it. There are two screws and then it pulls straight out. Underneath the fuse block there are two tabs. Insert screw drivers and pull straight out. Next I located the accessory outlet circuit. I crimped the splice tap from the V1 direct wire adapter and then inserted the spade connector. For the ground wire I drilled a hole in the sheet metal underneath the fuse block. I secured the wire with a sheet metal screw. I mounted the main unit at the left end of the passenger visor (see second photo). With the visor down, it's only visible from the front of the car (first photo). Starting at the main unit, I ran RJ11 around the top of the windshield over to the A-pillar, then down to the dash. I used the plastic putty knife to tuck the wire in. From the bottom of the A-pillar, the wire goes behind the dash into the fuse compartment. This gets plugged into the direct wire adapter. Make sure the unit works. Gather up any excess wire and zip tie it up. In order to pass the wire to the steering column, I removed the trim around the steering column, the instrument binnacle, and the glove box. There are two screws on the side of the top piece of trim. There are two screws on the bottom of the steering column trim and two on the side. The binnacle pulls straight out. The glove box has two screws on the inside. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable to the odometer switch, so I just swung it out of the way. Same goes for the LED in the glove box. I used fish tape and or a coat hanger to run the RJ11 from the fuse box to the column. It was easier to pull from the glove box to the steering column, then pull the other end to the direct wire adapter. I left the excess under the steering column. Plug this end into the splitter and the other end to the accessory outlet on the direct wire adapter. One more RJ11will go into the other side of the splitter, but not yet. The next part was the most challenging: trying to decide where to mount the remote display. When the detector goes off, I want to see the display and the speedo. I ultimately decided to put the display just above the turn signal. I couldn't glue or Velcro it there, so I had to do some custom work first. There's a screw on the upper left of the instrument clustering. I made an L bracket from perforated steel strapping. It extends out beyond the instrument binnacle. Looks like crap from trying to bend it "just right". It won't be visible when the display is mounted. Next I cut a slit into the binnacle where the lower steering column trim covers it. That way it won't be visible. I used a cutting wheel on the Dremel tool. The slit is taller than the bracket to allow the binnacle to be reinstalled. Then strap can then be bent to mount the remote display. The back of the wiper stalk can be pried off using a screw driver wrapped with electrical tape to prevent damaging the plastic. Start on the underside closest to the wheel. I drilled a hole inside the stalk to pass the wires. Drill a hole slightly larger than the switch on the flat part. Photo Cut off one RJ11 plug. Cut back the outer insulation. Using the following diagram, verify which color wires to use for the remote mute. Cut the unused wires flush with the outer insulation. Strip about 1/4" off each wire. Pass the two stripped wires up the steering column into the wiper stalk. Slide shrink wrap over the wires. I used a variety of colors and tapered the sizes. Solder the two wires to the two pins on the switch. I covered this with the shrink wrap. The switch hot glued into position, making sure it functions properly. Snap the cover back in place and secure the wires with zip ties. The RJ11 on the other end plugs into the splitter. Check for proper function. Organize and zip tie any excess cables. Reinstall the trim panels, glove box, fuse block, storage compartment and fuse door. You may have noticed the lower steering column trim is pulled away from the binnacle where the bracket is. I fixed this but don't have a picture of it uploaded.