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V1 radar detector custom installation

Discussion in 'Roadster: Technical' started by NomoC8, Jul 14, 2014.

  1. NomoC8

    NomoC8 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    Chi town
    #1 NomoC8, Jul 14, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
    The Valentine 1 has been my trusted friend for many years. It has saved my backside more times than I can count. I had to have it in my Roadster. But with the manual top, it is sometimes inconvenient. If I get out of the car, I either have to take it with me or put the top on. I've had K40 in other rides, but I prefer the V1. So I wanted a stealth installation (to avoid both sides of the law), a display close to the speedometer, and the ability to mute with either hand without taking my hands off the wheel or eyes off the road. I direct-wired the main unit, installed a remote display, and a custom accessory remote mute. The following is how I did it. It may apply to other detectors. You are free to use this as you wish, but I take no responsibility for what you do to your car.

    Main unit hidden behind visor:
    photo 4.JPG
    photo 3.JPG


    Remote display:
    photo 2.JPG

    Supplies used:

    V1 radar detector
    V1 remote display
    V1 Direct-wire power adapter
    Micro-tact switch. Momentary on. Approx. 9 mm tall
    RJ11 four conductor cables: two, approx. 6-7' lengths, two, approx. 2' lengths
    RJ11 splitter: female to dual female
    3/4" perforated steel strapping tape
    sheet metal screw
    zip ties
    Shrink wrap tubing


    Tools used:

    Wire stripper
    Phillips and straight screw drivers
    Tin snips
    Soldering iron
    Hot glue gun
    Dremel rotary tool
    Drill & assorted bits
    Fish tape or wire coat hanger
    Plastic putty knife


    First, I opened and removed the fuse box door, then the storage compartment beneath it. There are two screws and then it pulls straight out. Underneath the fuse block there are two tabs. Insert screw drivers and pull straight out. Next I located the accessory outlet circuit. I crimped the splice tap from the V1 direct wire adapter and then inserted the spade connector. For the ground wire I drilled a hole in the sheet metal underneath the fuse block. I secured the wire with a sheet metal screw.
    image.jpg


    I mounted the main unit at the left end of the passenger visor (see second photo). With the visor down, it's only visible from the front of the car (first photo).

    image.jpg

    Starting at the main unit, I ran RJ11 around the top of the windshield over to the A-pillar, then down to the dash. I used the plastic
    putty knife to tuck the wire in.

    photo 6.JPG

    From the bottom of the A-pillar, the wire goes behind the dash into the fuse compartment. This gets plugged into the direct wire adapter. Make sure the unit works. Gather up any excess wire and zip tie it up.


    In order to pass the wire to the steering column, I removed the trim around the steering column, the instrument binnacle, and the glove box. There are two screws on the side of the top piece of trim. There are two screws on the bottom of the steering column trim and two on the side. The binnacle pulls straight out. The glove box has two screws on the inside. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable to the odometer switch, so I just swung it out of the way. Same goes for the LED in the glove box.


    I used fish tape and or a coat hanger to run the RJ11 from the fuse box to the column. It was easier to pull from the glove box to the steering column, then pull the other end to the direct wire adapter. I left the excess under the steering column. Plug this end into the splitter and the other end to the accessory outlet on the direct wire adapter. One more RJ11will go into the other side of the splitter, but not yet.


    The next part was the most challenging: trying to decide where to mount the remote display. When the detector goes off, I want to see the display and the speedo. I ultimately decided to put the display just above the turn signal. I couldn't glue or Velcro it there, so I had to do some custom work first. There's a screw on the upper left of the instrument clustering.

    image.jpg



    I made an L bracket from perforated steel strapping. It extends out beyond the instrument binnacle. Looks like crap from trying to bend it "just right". It won't be visible when the display is mounted.

    image.jpg
    photo 1.JPG

    Next I cut a slit into the binnacle where the lower steering column trim covers it. That way it won't be visible. I used a cutting wheel on the Dremel tool.

    image.jpg

    The slit is taller than the bracket to allow the binnacle to be reinstalled. Then strap can then be bent to mount the remote display.

    photo 2.JPG

    The back of the wiper stalk can be pried off using a screw driver wrapped with electrical tape to prevent damaging the plastic. Start on the underside closest to the wheel. I drilled a hole inside the stalk to pass the wires.

    photo 1.JPG

    Drill a hole slightly larger than the switch on the flat part.


    Photo


    Cut off one RJ11 plug. Cut back the outer insulation. Using the following diagram, verify which color wires to use for the remote mute.


    image.jpg



    Cut the unused wires flush with the outer insulation. Strip about 1/4" off each wire. Pass the two stripped wires up the steering column into the wiper stalk. Slide shrink wrap over the wires. I used a variety of colors and tapered the sizes. Solder the two wires to the two pins on the switch.

    image.jpg

    I covered this with the shrink wrap.

    image.jpg

    The switch hot glued into position, making sure it functions properly.

    image.jpg

    Snap the cover back in place and secure the wires with zip ties.

    image.jpg

    The RJ11 on the other end plugs into the splitter. Check for proper function. Organize and zip tie any excess cables. Reinstall the trim panels, glove box, fuse block, storage compartment and fuse door.

    You may have noticed the lower steering column trim is pulled away from the binnacle where the bracket is. I fixed this but don't have a picture of it uploaded.
     
  2. NomoC8

    NomoC8 Member

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    Location:
    Chi town
    C'mon folks! 250+ views and no comments? Anyone? Looks like crap? Nice job? Why don't you start doing this professionally?:tongue:
     
  3. smorgasbord

    smorgasbord Active Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    I have to admit that I didn't get it. A "stealth" installation that's mounted on the windshield where everyone walking by can see it, and where if the top is off anyone could grab it (which was your first concern)? And then all that hacking at interior pieces and using steel strapping to mount the remote display? I just don't get it, sorry.
     
  4. NomoC8

    NomoC8 Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Chi town
    Thanks for your input. I understand the confusion. I should has written "discreet" or "inconspicuous" rather than stealth. I wanted to be able to leave it in the car if I was getting out for a short time, not long term parking.

    The "hacking into the dash" was minimal. The slot in the binnacle looks pretty rough because I wasn't concerned about how it would look. It is in an area that is covered by the steering wheel trim. I used the metal strap because it's easy to bend, already has perforations present, cheap, and easy to get. It's completely hidden by the display once installed. You can't even see it the pictures or in real life.
     
  5. supersnoop

    supersnoop Tesla Roadster #334

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
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    825
    Location:
    Pflugerville
    Sorry, I have to agree with smorgasbord. It's kind of like the remote for the radio. I can reach the radio without stretching; why would I need a remote? The V1 is clearly visible from the front, and the "discrete" display is hard-wired and permanently mounted to be the first thing an office would see as he approached your drivers side window. Not only is there a mute button right next to your left hand, you wired one up to the wiper control so you've got a button by your right hand. Plus, the visor could impair the rear detection on the V1. I just don't see the point in this. Mount it under or above your rear view mirror and take it down when you need to.
     
  6. NomoC8

    NomoC8 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2013
    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    Chi town
    Thanks for your input. I have since added window tint across the top of the windshield.

    Radar detectors are legal in my state. If an officer is at my window, it's likely "game over" already. At that point, I'm not concerned about the detector anymore.

    There's a mute button on both sides, so I can mute with either hand.

    The rear detector sensitivity is not significantly impacted by the visor. I tested it several times with different sources. Besides, rear threats are not of much concern to me.

    There is not enough space above the mirror to mount it.

    Any way, to each their own.
     

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