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Value of 2012 Model S Signature P85 w/out working battery

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As you can see in this thread, a new battery would have ran you somewhere around $20k (not considering any discount) compared to a remanufactured battery at $15k. In for a penny, in for a pound ESPECIALLY if you are actively trying to sell the car and plan to be completely upfront with any potential buyer.

The value is very much dependent on availability of Tesla's in your market, so keep that in mind. Maybe it's worth $20k? Maybe it's worth slightly more...maybe slightly less.

What other "major repairs" have you done? MCU, DU, sunroof (yikes, $$$), door handles, etc? That might help sell the car if you have addressed some of these other issues that are known to plague these guys. Nothing is cheap out of warranty, so any educated buyer will want to know what you have had done recently so that they can anticipate/plan on what might need fixed later.
 
I understand this has been resolved, but out out of curiosity, did you ever reach out to Gruber Motor Company? I've seen them repair Model S battery packs savings customers thousands of dollars.
I have a 2012 Signature Model S and thankfully the battery is still just fine. But yes, I was wondering if the OP reached out to Gruber as well. I'm in Phoenix so it's a lot easier for me, but I used to take my old Roadster there a lot. They really know their stuff. I wonder what they would have said in this case?

 
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I did reach out to Gruber, for the cost it didn’t make sense in my opinion. At a minimum it would have been $4495 + cost of transport with no warranty. If BMS repairs were needed add another $795, if modules needed replacing add $1895 per module. That is unknown until disassembly and cell isolation. If I was out west it might have made more sense. At least the 4 yr/50k Tesla warranty provides some comfort
 
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This has me nervous about either the MCU1 daughterboard recall work or paying for the Infotainment upgrade to MCU2 (plus radio.)
Either way, it's sort of like major vehicular surgery.
It’s a valid worry. They had to send a mobile tech to redeploy firmware the day after my paid mcu2 upgrade. Car was quite unhappy. They wanted to be paid for that visit and I resisted. They never said “uncle” but I stopped getting messages about it.
 
I did reach out to Gruber, for the cost it didn’t make sense in my opinion. At a minimum it would have been $4495 + cost of transport with no warranty. If BMS repairs were needed add another $795, if modules needed replacing add $1895 per module. That is unknown until disassembly and cell isolation. If I was out west it might have made more sense. At least the 4 yr/50k Tesla warranty provides some comfort
I'm glad you get a 4/50 warranty with that; good investment I think, whether you sell it or not. Let us know what kind of 100% charge range you get upon return.
 
It’s a valid worry. They had to send a mobile tech to redeploy firmware the day after my paid mcu2 upgrade. Car was quite unhappy. They wanted to be paid for that visit and I resisted. They never said “uncle” but I stopped getting messages about it.
I know the MCU1 to MCU2 upgrade is more complex both from a hardware and software perspective. More potential errors.
 
I did reach out to Gruber, for the cost it didn’t make sense in my opinion. At a minimum it would have been $4495 + cost of transport with no warranty. If BMS repairs were needed add another $795, if modules needed replacing add $1895 per module. That is unknown until disassembly and cell isolation. If I was out west it might have made more sense. At least the 4 yr/50k Tesla warranty provides some comfort

I've got to say that even without the 4/50 warranty Gruber seems like a better way to go. Unless the battery is flooded with coolant and every module is wrecked I guess.

Thanks for sharing this though. I've been very curious about how people deal with a battery dying out of warranty.
 
So final update... I picked up my car yesterday afternoon and the final cost was as follows:

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Charging to 100% last night got me to 256 miles, an improvement of 38 miles from my old battery. While at the SC I requested all diagnostics from my old battery on the several occasions I complained about my battery and they supposedly tested it, they told me they couldn’t give me the diagnostics... hmm.
 
Significantly cheaper than the 20k everyone assumes. But how much yelling did you have to do to get that 3k discount?

Thanks for posting that. It's good to see hard numbers in this situation.

Did you just make an "ass" out of yourself?

The only reason it is "significantly cheaper" is because he chose a remanufactured battery and NOT a new one.

A new HV will run you about $20,000. That's not an assumption. I posted my invoice; you can find it on here.
 
OP really spent 12k to fix a car that's not worth much more!? I probably would have traded it in for whatever they were willing to give me, if any (would have been junked otherwise)...

Well, I mean the battery and the motor are really the only major things that you need to worry about on these cars. And the motors are pretty solid as far as I can tell. There's door handle and such but that's not going to leave you stranded.

I think I would have leaned towards having the battery replaced.
 
OP spent $12k keeping a $25k+ car on the road, saving the environment from more unnecessary production. Not everyone considers Teslas to be single-use disposable cars. Many of us believed in the enticement of sustainable transportation and still try to adhere to the idea.
Amen to that. So from this experience and the other one, it seems Tesla offers both Reman and New battery as option. Each time with a reduced price.
I find this great. Don’t think many other Official ICE dealers (where I live) proposes reman engine or gearbox. Only independent garages do. And then with very limited warranty.
So yes, this is encouraging me to keep my car beyond the 8th year.
 
Personally if I was the OP, I would pay for the 20K for the new battery if I intend to keep driving it for much much longer, i.e. like 5-10 more years. With a RM battery, you don't know if it will fail after the warranty Tesla gives you. Older packs are cost saving for Tesla and not the consumer. I wouldn't be surprised if it fails again. RM battery is essentially someone's old pack that failed and they fixed by probably replacing some modules or doing some simple repairs and then selling back to you. Your chances of failing will definitely be higher than if you got a new pack. Again, not saying the new pack will NOT fail earlier, it's just lower probability it will. I guess the only good side is the OP got more range and hoping his pack won't die before the prices of these packs drop in prices. Though given the current cell constrain Tesla claims, I doubt they will be reducing battery cost anytime soon.