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Vibration while breaking with iforged 21" wheels

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by mmalacho, Nov 6, 2013.

  1. mmalacho

    mmalacho New Member

    Nov 6, 2013
    chicago Illinois
    Teslamericans (cheesy),

    After only 1000 gentle braking miles, I installed 21" iForged wheels on my model S that were made for my model S. I immediately started seeing vibration while braking. Another thread suggested I order Hub-Centric rings from this site

    Does anyone have any opinions? Did iForged not fit these correctly for my vehicle? Should I take it up with them? Should I purchase these rings? If so, does anyone know what size?

    I appreciate any help I can get.


  2. Luder94

    Luder94 Member

    May 27, 2013

    Do you know what the center bore is on the wheel (is it different front wheel vs. back wheel?). Your hub ring thickness would be determined by the bore on the wheel in conjunction with the bore size on the tesla hub (64 or 65mm).

    On my winter wheels, they have a 73mm bore, I will be using hubcentric rings that have an inner diameter just larger than 64mm and an outer diameter of just under 73mm. Ideally, I'll probably have a 10 or 15mm spacer machined with the inner bore to match the Tesla hub, and outer bore to match the winter wheel bore.

    Hope to see your car with the wheels in the flesh whenever the next local Chicago-area meet is. If you don't have access to wheel bore sizes, you're welcome to come over and we can measure the bore sizes for both front and back wheels (I have a digital micrometer in case you don't).
  3. yearofthedragon

    May 2, 2013
    Los Angeles, CA
    your rotors are warped because the wheel never mounted FLAT to the hub.

    i'd bet 4digits iforge didn't machine/pocket the wheels to account for the T45 bolt that secures the rotor to the hub.

    o yesss, this T45 bolt protrudes. imagine this bolt as a little bump sticking out of a flat surface. how can you mount a wheel flush to a surface that has a bump sticking out of it?

    if the wheels weren't hubcentric your steering wheel would have been vibrating from the time when you mounted the wheels on the car.

  4. Musterion

    Musterion 18h 03m 37s −24° 23′ 12″

    Jan 10, 2013
    [Mods: probably this thread should be in Driving Dynamics]

    I agree with @yearofthedragon and was going to mention this is my own upcoming wheel installation thread. Take a look at this photo I took where the retaining bolt is marked with the green line. It is most definitely not flush on any of the rotors. The pocket outlines of the stock wheels are evident on the mounting hub, and clear the bolt head handily. I had done my own measurements and installation so was careful with this when planning my own new wheel set. Take a look at the back of your wheels--if no pockets between the lug hole pattern, or if the pockets are not wide enough, you will have a serious problem since the wheel cannot be mounted true. In fact, I would not drive on it in such a condition since the wheels would have poor contact area with the hub and are stressing the rotor bolt, which are both hazardous situations.

    From my wheel documentary:

    Attached Files:

  5. wycolo

    wycolo Active Member

    May 16, 2012
    WA & WY
    > immediately started seeing vibration while braking [mmalacho]

    Nothing is warped here, simply mis-mounted. Most likely some crap got in between the hub & rotor during fitment. Raise car, spin wheels looking for wobbling rotor or rim. Back off caliper(s), clean rotor mounting surfaces, etc.

    Yes, grind down the non-OEM rims at the T45 contact point and always mount rims in the same exact position(!). High fashion has its costs.

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