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Wall Connector Charging Slowly — Can I Fix Myself?

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I just got my Model 3 (finally!) and discovered, I think, that the electrician who installed my wall connector neglected to set the operating current correctly. At least, that's what I assume happened, as it's charging with a max of 12A (about 10 mi/hr) instead of 48A. Unfortunately, he can't get back out to fix it until next week.

Is this something I should be comfortable to do myself? I'm not particularly handy, but I mean, I can unscrew a few screws and turn a dial. I just want to make damn sure I'm not going to electrocute myself...

Has anyone else done this before?
 
It's pretty easy since the HPWC comes with the necessary screw heads to take out the screws-the smallest to remove the screw on the bottom to remove the face plate, the larger one to removed the screws around to remove the LED. You then undo the LED connection and have access to the dial. Makes sure you know which number to set it to, which I believe is a sticker right above or definitely in the manual. Then you put it back together. Should take maybe 5-10 minutes.

I would turn off the breaker and you should be fine. Watch one youtube video and you would know what to do. I'm assuming he installed the right size wiring and breaker so that you can charge at 48A.
 
I just got my Model 3 (finally!) and discovered, I think, that the electrician who installed my wall connector neglected to set the operating current correctly. At least, that's what I assume happened, as it's charging with a max of 12A (about 10 mi/hr) instead of 48A. Unfortunately, he can't get back out to fix it until next week.

Is this something I should be comfortable to do myself? I'm not particularly handy, but I mean, I can unscrew a few screws and turn a dial. I just want to make damn sure I'm not going to electrocute myself...

Has anyone else done this before?

In your car's charging setting menu, there is a charge current setting. Double check this setting is not manually set at a low current. Refer to your user manual for more details.
 
So, I'll put in the obligatory warning that working with high voltage can be dangerous so do this at your own risk.

Ok, that being said, it is super simple:

1) Turn off breaker
2) Confirm breaker size and wire gauge that is run from the breaker to the charger
3) Remove the screw on the bottom, remove plate, remove 6 screws, remove ribbon cable
4) Set rotary switch to "6" for 40amp breaker, or higher for a bigger breaker, see the installation manual: https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...nstallation_manual_80A_en_US.pdf?201612081439
5) Re-assemble
6) Turn on breaker
 
I just got my Model 3 (finally!) and discovered, I think, that the electrician who installed my wall connector neglected to set the operating current correctly. At least, that's what I assume happened, as it's charging with a max of 12A (about 10 mi/hr) instead of 48A. Unfortunately, he can't get back out to fix it until next week.

Is this something I should be comfortable to do myself? I'm not particularly handy, but I mean, I can unscrew a few screws and turn a dial. I just want to make damn sure I'm not going to electrocute myself...

Has anyone else done this before?

Hah, yes, as others have mentioned- Take your pick of more details and background on this very common issue:

100A breaker Wall Connector only charging Model 3 at 12A
Limited to 12 Amps
New Owner Question. Home charging limited to 12amps?

I did want to call out that it is important that you know what the right setting to set the dial to is before making the change. In some instances it might not be as simple as just setting it to the same as the circuit breaker (though in the vast majority of instances it will be that way).

You need to ensure that both the breaker and the wire is sufficient to handle the ampacity that you set the Wall Connector to using the rotary dial. There are conditions under which 6 AWG copper wire for instance is sometimes good for a setting of 50 amps, and other times good to 60 amps. It depends on the specifics of the install (in conduit or not, ambient temperatures, number of conductors in the conduit, etc...)

So if you can verify with the electrician what the proper setting was supposed to be, the actual work of setting the rotary dial is pretty trivial. Just shut off power first...