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Wall Connector install with Dryer Buddy using 30 dryer outlet

Dave Mac

Member
Mar 31, 2016
97
116
VA
Just installed my Wall Connector using a Dryer Buddy so that I can use an existing 30A dryer outlet. Saved me probably $1500 or more because the electrical box is on the other side of the house. The Dryer Buddy is the #4 with meter. I don't plan to use the dryer at the same time I charge, so I didn't buy the version that prioritizes the Tesla 14-50 outlet. Very happy with this solution, and Brad at BSA Electronics makes and tests these by hand, so it took just under a month from ordering until delivery!
 

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Thanks for mentioning that product ! I live in a marina where we've maxed out our breaker panel, but there are four big clothes dryers in the cabana building that we could use such automatic priority devices on. I had been trying to figure out how to build one myself, but if there's a proven design (and very reasonable prices), that's more budget money for electrical installation and inspection.
 
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cwoernle

Member
Apr 22, 2018
52
12
Montgomery, AL
Just installed my Wall Connector using a Dryer Buddy so that I can use an existing 30A dryer outlet. Saved me probably $1500 or more because the electrical box is on the other side of the house. The Dryer Buddy is the #4 with meter. I don't plan to use the dryer at the same time I charge, so I didn't buy the version that prioritizes the Tesla 14-50 outlet. Very happy with this solution, and Brad at BSA Electronics makes and tests these by hand, so it took just under a month from ordering until delivery!
Is the Dryer Buddy in the garage? If the dryer is in a different room, how do you connect the DB to the charger?
 

Dave Mac

Member
Mar 31, 2016
97
116
VA
Thanks for mentioning that product ! I live in a marina where we've maxed out our breaker panel, but there are four big clothes dryers in the cabana building that we could use such automatic priority devices on. I had been trying to figure out how to build one myself, but if there's a proven design (and very reasonable prices), that's more budget money for electrical installation and inspection.

Yes with my knowledge and degree I could easily make the version that doesn't cut off the outlet and avoid the circuit breaker from popping if there is any chance that both might be on at the same time, and even the more advanced version, but this is a well made product and I didn't want to devote the time myself. I spoke to the owner of BSA Electronics (Brad) and he is very nice and knowledgeable and I support his work.

Is the Dryer Buddy in the garage? If the dryer is in a different room, how do you connect the DB to the charger?

If you have an outlet in the garage, no problem. If it's in a different room, the cord is 5' but Brad's states on his website that he can make a longer cord. Going through a wall with power cords is against code, I believe, but might be able to be done safely. I really can't advise on that. One option is to have an electricion help assist so that it is up to code. At one time I wondered if an electrician could install a new plug with a switch to manually switch active outlets, but I never looked into it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-G...dard-Rectangular-Wall-Electrical-Box/50385688
 

wwu123

Member
Apr 11, 2017
416
347
Silicon Valley, CA
You can easily make one yourself if you are handy.
I know the Dryer Buddy Plus says it uses a relay and power supply to send power to only one of the two outlets at a time. But what parts are needed for the regular Dryer Buddy where it will send only the remaining power not used by the first outlet (dryer) to the 2nd outlet (EVSE?).
 

Evoforce

Active Member
Apr 19, 2017
1,545
1,831
Fountain Hills AZ
I know the Dryer Buddy Plus says it uses a relay and power supply to send power to only one of the two outlets at a time. But what parts are needed for the regular Dryer Buddy where it will send only the remaining power not used by the first outlet (dryer) to the 2nd outlet (EVSE?).

I use 30 amp 240 volt toggle to switch between outlets. I also make the outlets on the box female twist lock on all so i can swap any twist male cords with male plugs ends that I need depending on what 240 volt that I find in my travels. If you are just going to use it at your dryer only, that would not be necessary. I like having the versatility for road trips.
 

Bad Horse

Member
Aug 10, 2017
162
108
Overland Park
I did a very similar install with the automatic dryer buddy and mine is on the laundry room on the other side of the same wall from the garage. A 10-30 outlet, so nothing a nice hole through the wall, some PVC conduit, and 15ft of 10-2 w/ GND couldn't solve.
 
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Glamisduner

Active Member
Aug 2, 2017
3,582
2,125
Escondido, CA
Just installed my Wall Connector using a Dryer Buddy so that I can use an existing 30A dryer outlet. Saved me probably $1500 or more because the electrical box is on the other side of the house. The Dryer Buddy is the #4 with meter. I don't plan to use the dryer at the same time I charge, so I didn't buy the version that prioritizes the Tesla 14-50 outlet. Very happy with this solution, and Brad at BSA Electronics makes and tests these by hand, so it took just under a month from ordering until delivery!
So essentially the dryer buddy just replaces your existing 14-30 outlet correct?
Why did you opt to get the wall charger?
 

eprosenx

Active Member
May 30, 2018
2,074
2,517
Beaverton, OR
I did a very similar install with the automatic dryer buddy and mine is on the laundry room on the other side of the same wall from the garage. A 10-30 outlet, so nothing a nice hole through the wall, some PVC conduit, and 15ft of 10-2 w/ GND couldn't solve.

Hrm, a 10-30 outlet has three pins. Hot, Hot, and Neutral (not ground!). If you used 10-2 wire with a ground, I am guessing you used the uncoated bare ground wire for neutral?

Probably not a great idea.

A Tesla may not use that wire as an actual neutral, but some other thing later that gets plugged in there (like a dryer) might.
 

Bad Horse

Member
Aug 10, 2017
162
108
Overland Park
Hrm, a 10-30 outlet has three pins. Hot, Hot, and Neutral (not ground!). If you used 10-2 wire with a ground, I am guessing you used the uncoated bare ground wire for neutral?

Probably not a great idea.

A Tesla may not use that wire as an actual neutral, but some other thing later that gets plugged in there (like a dryer) might.


I think you are missing the point of the dryer buddy. The dryer wiring hasn't changed.
 

Kinupe

Member
Jun 8, 2018
20
2
Memphis
I did a very similar install with the automatic dryer buddy and mine is on the laundry room on the other side of the same wall from the garage. A 10-30 outlet, so nothing a nice hole through the wall, some PVC conduit, and 15ft of 10-2 w/ GND couldn't solve.
Do you have pics of your setup? I have the same situation with laundry room and garage.
 
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eprosenx

Active Member
May 30, 2018
2,074
2,517
Beaverton, OR

Ohhh! I get it now... I thought you were using a UMC, but you are using a wall connector. I also did not realize that you got a version of the dryer buddy that has a hardwired output. I thought the dryer buddy was giving you two 10-30 receptacles and that you just put a 10-30 plug on 10-2 romex and tied the ground wire to the neutral and extended it to a receptacle in the garage that way. I was going to disapprove of that since someone could plug a dryer into that and carry current on the small ground conductor that does not have proper insulation.

Now my next question: Did you investigate if your wiring to the dryer plug actually has four conductors and you could have hot/hot/neutral/ AND ground? As it is here I think you are using the neutral connection as a ground for the HPWC. I mean, this works, but I am not exactly sure how code compliant it is and if there are any dangerous failure modes (all the ones I can think of are the same whether it is a dedicated ground or a "neutral" wire).

Nice clean install! With all that work, and cost of a dryer buddy was a new circuit not an option? The panel too far away or physically full or not enough calculated remaining capacity?

Btw, is it in conduit the entire way? If so, any reason you used romex and not just plain THHN?
 

Bad Horse

Member
Aug 10, 2017
162
108
Overland Park
Ohhh! I get it now... I thought you were using a UMC, but you are using a wall connector. I also did not realize that you got a version of the dryer buddy that has a hardwired output. I thought the dryer buddy was giving you two 10-30 receptacles and that you just put a 10-30 plug on 10-2 romex and tied the ground wire to the neutral and extended it to a receptacle in the garage that way. I was going to disapprove of that since someone could plug a dryer into that and carry current on the small ground conductor that does not have proper insulation.

Now my next question: Did you investigate if your wiring to the dryer plug actually has four conductors and you could have hot/hot/neutral/ AND ground? As it is here I think you are using the neutral connection as a ground for the HPWC. I mean, this works, but I am not exactly sure how code compliant it is and if there are any dangerous failure modes (all the ones I can think of are the same whether it is a dedicated ground or a "neutral" wire).

Nice clean install! With all that work, and cost of a dryer buddy was a new circuit not an option? The panel too far away or physically full or not enough calculated remaining capacity?

Btw, is it in conduit the entire way? If so, any reason you used romex and not just plain THHN?


Literally got done fixing. Your comment though made me think if the wiring to the dryer buddy was right, and funny enough, it was also a 10-2 w/ GND going to the dryer in the first place. So, well, one thing led to another, 10-3 w/ GND, and two 14-30 receptacles, new dryer plugs, and some more conduit later you get...
IMG_20180616_145355.jpg
IMG_20180616_145424.jpg


IMG_20180616_145433_1.jpg
 

Bad Horse

Member
Aug 10, 2017
162
108
Overland Park
Also, I believe technically code ends at the outlet, so everything after that is "not subject" but yeah, that doesn't account for the fact I did discover the wiring original to the house was incorrect in the first place. I did know I have everything to the HWPC done right in the first place.
 

Bad Horse

Member
Aug 10, 2017
162
108
Overland Park
Oh and yeah, for the last thing, I decided on the dryer buddy cause my service drop and breaker box is 100A, and between the dryer, AC, stove, fridge (and the box has only has one empty space) I figured the $350 for the dryer buddy, and about $200 worth of cable, conduit, and miscellaneous work items was a quicker/cheaper option than getting a whole new breaker box + wiring on the eve of getting a 50k car and have only gotten said house just last year (I am an EE and 29, so lucky enough to afford things but not willing to overextend myself). I am not in such dire financial straight to think I can't afford someone to come and put all of that in, but, I got a bathroom and other house work I would much rather have done, and this worked well in, well I wouldn't call it a pinch but a nice compromise.

Literally the most expensive part was the HWPC, but, I splurged for that and that only.
 
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eprosenx

Active Member
May 30, 2018
2,074
2,517
Beaverton, OR
Literally got done fixing. Your comment though made me think if the wiring to the dryer buddy was right, and funny enough, it was also a 10-2 w/ GND going to the dryer in the first place. So, well, one thing led to another, 10-3 w/ GND, and two 14-30 receptacles, new dryer plugs, and some more conduit later you get...

Hahaha, so did you run new wire all the way back to the panel? Or you mean you just replaced the whip from the dryer buddy to the wall outlet along with the outlet itself? I presume the wire then back to the electrical panel already had two hots, a neutral and a ground?

10-30 receptacles are actually just hot hot neutral, it has NO ground in that plug.

Also, I believe technically code ends at the outlet, so everything after that is "not subject" but yeah, that doesn't account for the fact I did discover the wiring original to the house was incorrect in the first place. I did know I have everything to the HWPC done right in the first place.

Yeah, I think you are right. Though you jumped back into conduit and went through walls and so I would think that would put you back in NEC land. I am actually not sure if that is code compliant. I am not sure you are allowed to have a plug in device that then feeds in-wall wiring? Regardless, I don't see the danger to it... I like your solution! It is very cleanly done. I was going to say... You must be an engineer (and then I read your next message...)

Oh and yeah, for the last thing, I decided on the dryer buddy cause my service drop and breaker box is 100A, and between the dryer, AC, stove, fridge (and the box has only has one empty space) I figured the $350 for the dryer buddy, and about $200 worth of cable, conduit, and miscellaneous work items was a quicker/cheaper option than getting a whole new breaker box + wiring on the eve of getting a 50k car and have only gotten said house just last year (I am an EE and 29, so lucky enough to afford things but not willing to overextend myself). I am not in such dire financial straight to think I can't afford someone to come and put all of that in, but, I got a bathroom and other house work I would much rather have done, and this worked well in, well I wouldn't call it a pinch but a nice compromise.

Literally the most expensive part was the HWPC, but, I splurged for that and that only.

That makes total sense. If you only have a 100A feed this is a very smart solution. Now I get it. I predict you have a solid future ahead of you and if you stay in this house I would not be shocked to see you upgrading that service at some point just for fun. (that is my hunch since that is what I would be thinking about!) But I think what you have done will work great!

Nicely done!

P.S. Did you MAKE SURE to remove the bonding jumpers on the dryer between neutral and ground when you switched to a 14-30 plug? Also, did you test to make sure ground and neutral were both properly connected back to the transformer? (i.e. 120v from both hots to neutral and ground, plus 240v hot to hot, and 0v neutral to ground?)
 

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