I'm not an electrician, but I've played with those buttons and looked at the manual numerous times and thoroughly started the study of electrical work (but never concluded), so I'll answer a preliminary guess, and then a real electrician can answer. My guess will be around 90% correct, in terms of probability.
First, it says "Warning: Power MUST remain OFF before setting or changing the DIP or rotary switches. Blah blah blah (why)." So, go turn the breaker OFF before doing the below.
Ok, from Page 21, the Rotary Switch Position #8 is for 40A Maximum Output Current for a Circuit Breaker of 50A, which matches your original post circuit size.
Also from Page 21, it says "Switch Position 1: For a Line to Line Connection (240V) set the DIP switch DOWN." I'm almost certain you need to change the setting of your dip switch 1 to DOWN (because you said House); while I'm not 100% certain about this, I'm 99% certain that your house does not use 277VeffAC nominal in that application, and does do 240VeffAC nominal. Your electrician putting in a black and red wires does not contradict the 240V (but it also wouldn't contradict the 277V).
Also from Page 21, it says "Switch Position 2: DIP Switch Position 2 should always be in the UP position." That matches your setup now.
Presumably, after fixing dip switch position 1 and properly re-assembling your box with all proper attachments, gaskets, connections, etc., you can turn your breaker back on.
If you show your electrician my post and Page 21 of the manual, he can probably do this himself with very little effort on his part, and you would be 100% legal. (How would the Authority Having Jurisdiction of inspection of that installation know that you were the one who fixed dip switch 1? is what I might ponder, but I'm not you.)
My HPWC also came new in the box with the dip switches in the incorrect positions for a home. I think it's sort of a safety against ignorant people installing dangerous things, if they don't have the confidence to even know what they are doing. If your electrician did everything else correctly, then hopefully that angle is OK.
The current Tesla HPWC is a very versatile one-size-fits-all generalized connector that can be relatively inexpensively installed in a number of different situations, making it a very cost effective way to introduce HPWC in a wide variety of environments and uses. The extra features are really awesome (and include things like slave sharing of a 100A circuit, and installable in many typical commercial electrical sites that have 277VAC). However, 2 dip switches and a rotary switch do need to be properly set for it to function properly. It's not a huge amount of work to read half a page of instructions to set 3 settings, but if someone isn't willing to do that, one has to wonder if they're even good enough to be a proper electrician. Having said that, any electrician new to a particular product may have not been aware of the existence of the need to look at the dip switches, and may be used to equipment that tells the electrician that the factory settings are the only correct ones; for the current Tesla HPWC, this is not true.
(You went silent. I truly hope you did not hurt yourself.)
