Care to point out the violations?Huge code violation with this installation. Was it even ESA inspected?
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Care to point out the violations?Huge code violation with this installation. Was it even ESA inspected?
ESA standards followed. Has a pull out shut circuit interrupt. Electrical contractor still need to get the inspector to put the sticker on it. Only running 30 amps.Huge code violation with this installation. Was it even ESA inspected?
Care to point out the violations?
In Ontario:ESA standards followed. Has a pull out shut circuit interrupt. Electrical contractor still need to get the inspector to put the sticker on it. Only running 30 amps.
Aha!!! I did not know that! Thank you for sharing.In Ontario:
As the settings are adjustable via Wi-Fi and the use of a tool is not required to open the enclosure to change the settings, the full nameplate rating of the EVSE (48 amps) must be used to determine branch circuit and disconnect requirements.
In short, a Gen 3 wall connector has to be wired with a minimum 60 amp circuit.
The maximum is a 60 amp breaker. Any higher and it won't protect the wire. If you're on a 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge copper wire, and commissioned the charger for 30 amps (24 amp max output); you will be fine. I know this is an old post.In Ontario:
As the settings are adjustable via Wi-Fi and the use of a tool is not required to open the enclosure to change the settings, the full nameplate rating of the EVSE (48 amps) must be used to determine branch circuit and disconnect requirements.
In short, a Gen 3 wall connector has to be wired with a minimum 60 amp circuit.
I think the minimum is also the maximum. They're basically saying that since the maximum current is software configurable, they don't trust the software, so the circuit it's connected to must be able to handle the maximum amount of current the WC can deliver. In this case, there's zero chance that a problem with the software can result in a fire.The maximum is a 60 amp breaker. Any higher and it won't protect the wire. If you're on a 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge copper wire, and commissioned the charger for 30 amps (24 amp max output); you will be fine. I know this is an old post.
This was the key reason, I was trying to source a Gen 2 Connector, but no luck there.The maximum is a 60 amp breaker. Any higher and it won't protect the wire. If you're on a 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge copper wire, and commissioned the charger for 30 amps (24 amp max output); you will be fine. I know this is an old post.
Agreed. Also there is a basic assumption that the breaker should pop, yes? It was done really well and was essentially a swap of my old Sun Country SCH-25P with the dryer plug to this hard-wired arrangement. Already, it's the "hot thing at the dance" for the other Tesla owners in the complex, who want to know when I'm not around, to use it, LOLI think the minimum is also the maximum. They're basically saying that since the maximum current is software configurable, they don't trust the software, so the circuit it's connected to must be able to handle the maximum amount of current the WC can deliver. In this case, there's zero chance that a problem with the software can result in a fire.
I ran a 6 gauge THHN Romex wire with a 50 amp breaker in my 100 amp box. The circuit breaker is only there to protect the wire from melting. A 6 gauge THHN wire only can handle 55 amps. If you ran 6 gauge wires in conduit you could get away with 60 amps, except depending on the length of the run. You could technically run 6 gauge wire through your entire house and it would be super costly and probably not fit in the breaker itself.
The BIGGEST reason I went with a wall connector vs. a mobile charger, and since we are on the subject of inspectors, with an RV outlet you technically need a GFCI breaker in the box. Which I've heard trips too often. I have no official sample data to confirm how often that would happen, but most mobile chargers have some sort of reset in them and with a GFCI in the box causes too many issues. But by "the book" an RV outlet requires a GFCI in the box. And that, I wonder, inspectors should flag more often. Don't know.
You may want to look into FB marketplace. I saw a 2nd gen HPWC last night. I also scored one a week ago. I have a friend told me that his electrician refused to connect a 3rd gen hpwc to a smaller size breaker as well as he says it violates code. And he cannot upsize his panel as that's the max power available for the division.This was the key reason, I was trying to source a Gen 2 Connector, but no luck there.
Agreed. Also there is a basic assumption that the breaker should pop, yes? It was done really well and was essentially a swap of my old Sun Country SCH-25P with the dryer plug to this hard-wired arrangement. Already, it's the "hot thing at the dance" for the other Tesla owners in the complex, who want to know when I'm not around, to use it, LOL
I gave up looking and got a Gen 3 in the end. All good.You may want to look into FB marketplace. I saw a 2nd gen HPWC last night. I also scored one a week ago. I have a friend told me that his electrician refused to connect a 3rd gen hpwc to a smaller size breaker as well as he says it violates code. And he cannot upsize his panel as that's the max power available for the division.
The work was done by our building's electrical contractor. It went incredibly smoothly and he added a pull-out circuit interrupt box. I suspect the reason for ESA not being agreeable with the Gen 3 is that they are not up-to-date on this tech. The setup was ridiculously easy once you have the phone browser opened on the Wall Connector's page and IP. Also Tesla tech support was incredible. Although I've been in I.T. my entire career, it was still reassuring to have them on the phone while it finalized the config and updated the firmware.You may want to look into FB marketplace. I saw a 2nd gen HPWC last night. I also scored one a week ago. I have a friend told me that his electrician refused to connect a 3rd gen hpwc to a smaller size breaker as well as he says it violates code. And he cannot upsize his panel as that's the max power available for the division.
And, as I understand it, that''s the reason they feel it violates code. They're afraid someone is going to (easily) up the current limit after the fact (with no tools required), on a circuit that's not rated for it, and burn the house down (even though it's relatively easy to do it physically with a Gen 2 wall connector).The setup was ridiculously easy once you have the phone browser opened on the Wall Connector's page and IP.
To your point - anything is possible. I must say though, that as someone who works in cyber security, the server wishing the wall connector, is quite secure. The password complies and exceeds the Cyber Secure Canada requirements. But I also question that even if someone were to improperly configure it, wouldn’t the breaker kick in if the draw and resistance were too high? I’m no electrician (really).And, as I understand it, that''s the reason they feel it violates code. They're afraid someone is going to (easily) up the current limit after the fact (with no tools required), on a circuit that's not rated for it, and burn the house down (even though it's relatively easy to do it physically with a Gen 2 wall connector).
If you go over the maximum allowed current, it should. But:To your point - anything is possible. I must say though, that as someone who works in cyber security, the server wishing the wall connector, is quite secure. The password complies and exceeds the Cyber Secure Canada requirements. But I also question that even if someone were to improperly configure it, wouldn’t the breaker kick in if the draw and resistance were too high? I’m no electrician (really).
But I can pull 100% using the mobile connector.If you go over the maximum allowed current, it should. But:
1. It's never a good thing to rely on the breaker to avoid stuff catching on fire (think about plugging stuff into outlets...you shouldn't just count on the breaker to protect you, you should be paying attention to what you're plugging into the circuit to begin with)
2. It won't enforce the rule that you can only run 80% of the capacity of the conductor as a continuous load. It will instead allow you to draw 100% of the capacity of the breaker
NEMA 14-30 to 14-50 adapter is not compliant with electrical codes. I'm not sure why those even exist; you should be able to go from a higher amperage receptacle to a lower amperage connector but never in the reverse direction.But I can pull 100% using the mobile connector.
Plug the Nema 14-50 into the connector then use a pigtail and plug into say a 14-30
The car will think it is good for the 14-50 amp load and not the 14-30 as it doesn’t know it is on that line.