Wall Plug Over Heat Issue - Better 6-50 Receptable? (Using Mobile Charger)

[GroovaEV]

I've been using mobile chargers and with a 6-50 installed in our garage for the past 3 years to charge our two Tesla's. (Currently '22 Model Y & '21 S)
However, only during this past year, the amps has been dropping to 16A during charging. I've been receiving the "wall plug temperature too high error" that I've been seeing other people having.
From my research, it appears everyone is using 14-50's and end up changing their receptacle to a "Hubbell" brand 14-50 and that appears to of solved many of the issues.

* Can anyone recommend a good quality 6-50 like the Hubbell 14-50? Or should I just change out my 6-50 to a Hubbell "14-50"?

I've tried 3 different mobile charges, and it happens to both our '22 Model Y and our '21 Model S Plaid, so I've ruled those out.

I do notice that the voltage is rarely ever 240V. I have a a lot of computers/servers, and devices running in the house. The only thing I haven't tried yet is turning off as many devices in the house as possible to see if possibly the low voltage could be causing the heat? I've measured the temp around 120f
Note that this is charging only one Tesla at a time. I usually keep one Tesla plugged in to a 110v outlet as we rarely need to use both cars very often.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Unless you have a neutral tucked into the wall box, you can't just switch to a 14-50.

I'm sure Hubbell makes a 6-50... HBL9367 is one that pops right up.

Low input voltage isn't causing the heat. Either the receptacle itself is bad, or the connections that have been made to it are bad. Sometimes people don't realize how tight the screws need to be, or they are using aluminum conductors which tend to be very finicky. Before ordering a new receptacle, you should be sure whether you have copper or aluminum conductors, as the HBL9367 is not rated to connect to Aluminum at all.

 

[GtiMart]

Voltage might very well vary from the provider too. At my house for example, I can get around 240V at night whereas I get 229-234V at peak hours of the morning or dinner time, even when there's no one in my house to pull any additional power.

 

[GroovaEV]

Unless you have a neutral tucked into the wall box, you can't just switch to a 14-50.

I'm sure Hubbell makes a 6-50... HBL9367 is one that pops right up.

Low input voltage isn't causing the heat. Either the receptacle itself is bad, or the connections that have been made to it are bad. Sometimes people don't realize how tight the screws need to be, or they are using aluminum conductors which tend to be very finicky. Before ordering a new receptacle, you should be sure whether you have copper or aluminum conductors, as the HBL9367 is not rated to connect to Aluminum at all.

Yes, I was thinking the same thing about the neutral wire...

Thank you for the part number for the Hubbell. I feel a bit silly for not finding that previously!
Troubleshooting this issue has been on my to-do list for the past year but never had time to fully focus on it.
Thank you for confirming it's not the low voltage causing the issue. I've gone ahead and and ordered the Hubbell HBL9367 just now.

When you say to check if I have copper or aluminum "conductors", what is this referring to? The Tesla 6-50's prong's or the wire itself?
I'm using the Tesla 6-50 adapter connected to the Mobile Charger. I "think" the 6-50 receptacle is currently a Leviton.
I would assume the wires are copper. (Please excuse the ignorance here and I appreciate the assistance!)

 

[Pianewman]

GroovaEV: I would offer that when I feel my own "ignorance" about anything high-voltage electrical, I'll pay for a Master Electrician to come to my house and explain it to me. For me, anything short of this is risky. Way too many variables for the good-meaning folk here to be advising you.

 

[fiehlsport]

Your receptacle could be fine and it could be an issue of how tight the conductors are torqued into the receptacle. Or, the receptacle could be faulty.

If you're the type to fiddle with electrical, I'd remove and re-install the wires into the receptacle and make sure they're snug to rule out any issues there. If one is getting loose over time, that could explain the heat and the voltage drop. But don't think it should always be 240V, unless your house used to provide that to the car during charging and it suddenly doesn't anymore. My car drops to 232V @ 48A since it's a 70' run of cable. Totally fine. Some people get 240V or higher at full load, just depends on the provider and how strong the input to your home is.

 

[GroovaEV]

That got me to thinking, since I have it all logged with TeslaFi. I looked through the charges a year ago, and there were plenty with low voltage, some at 229V but it still charged at 32A. So at least that should definitely rule out low voltage being an issue.

 

[GroovaEV]

Wow, replaced the 6-50 Leviton with a Hubbell brand and the high wall temp issue has been fixed.

The Leviton looked fine, but it sure makes a difference in temp. The Hubbell plug stayed in the low 90's F.

 

[Pianewman]

Are you certain the terminals you loosened were actually tight? I don't doubt your comparison of temps, but some of that difference might have been caused by previously loose terminal screws.

 

[GroovaEV]

I was wondering the exact same thing. I've actually been tempted to reinstall the Leviton to test again.
Unfortunatly I completely forgot about testing the tightness as I was on a mission to quickly replace the receptacle. I had the family awaiting the power to be restored

I think I'll try and find time to give it a try again with the Leviton this week and report back.

 

[Sophias_dad]

I was wondering the exact same thing. I've actually been tempted to reinstall the Leviton to test again.
Unfortunatly I completely forgot about testing the tightness as I was on a mission to quickly replace the receptacle. I had the family awaiting the power to be restored

I think I'll try and find time to give it a try again with the Leviton this week and report back.

I would hope that the outlet is on its own breaker, so the only person waiting on power was the one with the Tesla.

 

[Corndart]

I would hope that the outlet is on its own breaker, so the only person waiting on power was the one with the Tesla.

 

[Benito1283]

Glad it seems to have fixed the problem. Given some of your comments it sounds like you’re not terribly familiar or comfortable around electricity (no judgment). The Hubbell outlets usually come with torque specs for the terminals, and they’re usually very high. Did you use a torque screwdriver when attaching the wires?

 

[GroovaEV]

Thanks for the information, I will look into it and plan to pay to have a licensed electrician to do the final install and inspection.

 

[SilverString]

This does not surprise me as the Leviton 14-50 outlet overheats on 32 amps as well due to the prongs in the outlet socket extending only half way across the length of the the plug prongs. Would not surprise me if the 6-50 Leviton is built the same way. Lots of posts about that issue on TMC.

FWIW, Lowes sells $10 Utilitech 14-50 and 6-50 "industrial" grade outlets. I have not tested the 6-50, but the 14-50 stays cool and will charge my MS at 32 amp continuously from 10 to 90% with no discernible heat at the outlet. Nothing wrong with Hubbel at all, but there are other less expensive options that will work safely and reliably.

 

[qdeathstar]

Yes, I was thinking the same thing about the neutral wire...

Thank you for the part number for the Hubbell. I feel a bit silly for not finding that previously!
Troubleshooting this issue has been on my to-do list for the past year but never had time to fully focus on it.
Thank you for confirming it's not the low voltage causing the issue. I've gone ahead and and ordered the Hubbell HBL9367 just now.

When you say to check if I have copper or aluminum "conductors", what is this referring to? The Tesla 6-50's prong's or the wire itself?
I'm using the Tesla 6-50 adapter connected to the Mobile Charger. I "think" the 6-50 receptacle is currently a Leviton.
I would assume the wires are copper. (Please excuse the ignorance here and I appreciate the assistance!)

You have to take the existing receptixak out to know if it is aluminum or copper. If the wire is copper in color it’s copper, if it’s silver in color it’s aluminum and needs to be replaced with copper.

 

[qdeathstar]

That got me to thinking, since I have it all logged with TeslaFi. I looked through the charges a year ago, and there were plenty with low voltage, some at 229V but it still charged at 32A. So at least that should definitely rule out low voltage being an issue.

The charger will only limit the current if there is voltage sag which increases as load is applied. If the voltage was 235 before the car plugged in and sagged to 229 with 32 amps being drawn the car probably would not lower the current. But if you started at 245v and it dropped to 229, that’s a different story.

 

[Sophias_dad]

If the wire is copper in color it’s copper, if it’s silver in color it’s aluminum and needs to be replaced with copper.

No, there are undoubtedly outlets that have AL rated connections, and would avoid the hassle of either replacing the wire or adding an AL-CU pigtail.

 

[qdeathstar]

No, there are undoubtedly outlets that have AL rated connections, and would avoid the hassle of either replacing the wire or adding an AL-CU pigtail.

The EVSE says to use copper conductors only.

 

[Sophias_dad]

The EVSE says to use copper conductors only.

Yes, but this entire thread is about a 6-50 receptacle.