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Warning! New Brake Pads and Discs after 13,000 miles

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I wonder if it would be feasible to cost engineer the manufacturing processes used for ceramic composite brake discs, such that they became an affordable option?

Tesla seem to be keen to explore novel manufacturing methods in other areas, like their new single piece, pressure die cast, aluminium alloy rear subframe. They must have put some serious effort into engineering that solution, as they apparently had to develop a new alloy in order to get it to work. Perhaps if that team was given the task of looking at making cost-effective, corrosion resistant, brake discs they might come up with a novel way to produce them.
There's no need to use ceramic or any other exotic materials in a production car. They're even overkill on most supercars, it's just that the owners want to be able to outdo their mates with lesser supercars.

Treat your brakes right and they will be plenty good enough and last a long time, especially on an EV.
 
I suspect his brake warping issue is somewhat real, but probably you can ignore it until the brakes really need servicing. Bjørn Nyland has posted some videos about it:

He's a good example of someone who didn't look after his brakes.
As a car owner you're responsible for keeping your car in a roadworthy condition. The car, however clever, can't do all of that for you.
 
There's no need to use ceramic or any other exotic materials in a production car. They're even overkill on most supercars, it's just that the owners want to be able to outdo their mates with lesser supercars.

Treat your brakes right and they will be plenty good enough and last a long time, especially on an EV.

Very true, however I will say (and this does not apply to normal drivers) the pads and brakes on the Performance Model 3 could use improvement. When I need new pads I'll be putting on the Carbotech pads. Had them on my Tesla Roadster and they are fantastic. I do track my car 3-5 times a year and the only issue I have is brake fade. The OEM pads on the Performance are crap for tracking. I did swap out the brake fluid for Motul 600F and installed steel braided Unplugged Performance brake lines. This helped with heat, but the pads are still junk with tracking the car. YES, we do have heavy regen with track mode which helps as this has been improved with numerous updates, but you can't change the compound of the pads via an update.

As I don't track the car more than 3-5 times a year the 1521 compound from CarbonTech is enough. Still quiet on the street and much better than OEM:

Carbotech Brake Pads - Tesla Model 3 WITH Performance Brake Package - Front
 
Very true, however I will say (and this does not apply to normal drivers) the pads and brakes on the Performance Model 3 could use improvement. When I need new pads I'll be putting on the Carbotech pads. Had them on my Tesla Roadster and they are fantastic. I do track my car 3-5 times a year and the only issue I have is brake fade. The OEM pads on the Performance are crap for tracking. I did swap out the brake fluid for Motul 600F and installed steel braided Unplugged Performance brake lines. This helped with heat, but the pads are still junk with tracking the car. YES, we do have heavy regen with track mode which helps as this has been improved with numerous updates, but you can't change the compound of the pads via an update.

As I don't track the car more than 3-5 times a year the 1521 compound from CarbonTech is enough. Still quiet on the street and much better than OEM:

Carbotech Brake Pads - Tesla Model 3 WITH Performance Brake Package - Front
Yes I agree the OE pads are mush for track use. I've used the Carbotech XP10s and they are great. Also fine for use on the road as the regen takes care of the low speed squeal you would normally get.

The biggest issue with the stock brakes on track is the rotors being too small and with not enough cooling. A BBK fixes that. But for the road the stock brake rotors and pads are more than enough once properly bedded.
 
Yes I agree the OE pads are mush for track use. I've used the Carbotech XP10s and they are great. Also fine for use on the road as the regen takes care of the low speed squeal you would normally get.

The biggest issue with the stock brakes on track is the rotors being too small and with not enough cooling. A BBK fixes that. But for the road the stock brake rotors and pads are more than enough once properly bedded.

Yeah, I would do a BBK however being in Switzerland we have homologation problems. While I was able to do many mods for suspension, wheels, etc there is no vendor here yet that has certified the MPP or Brembo BBK's. So I have to live with what Ive got. My concern with the XP10's is the winter temps high up in the alps. I don't want to swap pads much. So the 1521's seem to better fit my use case.
 
He's a good example of someone who didn't look after his brakes.
As a car owner you're responsible for keeping your car in a roadworthy condition. The car, however clever, can't do all of that for you.

You are joking. All you need to do for brakes normally is scheduled maintenance, and drive. Anything else is some level of malfunction or design flaw (or using them for unintended purpose, in which case you/manufacturer need to upgrade).
 
When you come to a complete stop and press the brakes fully down, I believe that will help. Using Low Regeneration in combination with this for a day, once every month, should help also. Both of these measures will allow your car to use the physical brakes more, reducing wear from not using them.

High regeneration, which helps extend your car's range by putting more energy into the battery, is awesome. You also need to think about brake maintenance since they will be used much less than for ICE cars.
 
You are joking. All you need to do for brakes normally is scheduled maintenance, and drive. Anything else is some level of malfunction or design flaw (or using them for unintended purpose, in which case you/manufacturer need to upgrade).
No I'm not joking. Brakes are a consumable just like tyres and require the owner to inspect from time to time and maintain as necessary. Just waiting until a scheduled service or until a warning light comes on can lead to problems. You have to use your eyes and look at them and take remedial action if required.
 
Brakes are a consumable just like tyres and require the owner to inspect from time to time and maintain as necessary.

It would appear Tesla have this issue covered:

Brake Disc Wiping
Model 3 is equipped with brake disc wiping, which automatically assists in maintaining brake responsiveness in cold and wet weather conditions. When such conditions are detected, brake disc wiping repeatedly applies an imperceptible amount of brake force to clear away water on the brake disc surface. This ensures your brakes are responsive even during poor weather conditions.
Hydraulic Fade Compensation
Your vehicle is also equipped with hydraulic fade compensation. This assists in monitoring brake system pressure and ABS activity for instances of lower brake performance. If lower brake performance is detected (as a result of brake fade, or cold or wet conditions, for example), you may feel the brake pedal pull away from your foot, detect some noise, and notice a strong increase in vehicle braking. Continue to press the brake pedal without releasing or "pumping" them

Brakes must be periodically inspected visually by removing the tire and wheel. For detailed specifications specifications and service limits for rotors and brake pads, see Subsystems on page 213. Additionally, Tesla recommends cleaning and lubricating the brake calipers every year or 20,000 km if in an area where roads are salted during winter months.
 
When you come to a complete stop and press the brakes fully down, I believe that will help. Using Low Regeneration in combination with this for a day, once every month, should help also. Both of these measures will allow your car to use the physical brakes more, reducing wear from not using them.

High regeneration, which helps extend your car's range by putting more energy into the battery, is awesome. You also need to think about brake maintenance since they will be used much less than for ICE cars.
What are people’s views on using the brake pedal or the emergency brake (press and hold the Park button - also known as the phantom braking simulator) for scrubbing rust or curing squeaks?
 
What are people’s views on using the brake pedal or the emergency brake (press and hold the Park button - also known as the phantom braking simulator) for scrubbing rust or curing squeaks?

The emergency brake is only in the rear. It uses a motor to close the caliper. To replace the rear brake pads is fun as without Tesla's special tool the trick to get it to release from the caliper is to use a 9v battery with the wires to this motor and tap the positive gently until it releases enough to be able to get to the caliper and pads for removal. The fronts don't have this.
 
Just had my M3LR picked up one week ago. Getting brake warning light saying brake fluid low! Less than 500 miles on car. No mobile service and nearest Tesla centre appointment a month away and 2.5hr drive. Thinking of just getting local garage to have a look or top up if low. However wouldn’t know if anything more serious. Any suggestions.
 
@Faz007 Just down the road ! If you have breakdown cover I recommend not driving in case you have a leak in the system, you can’t take risks with brakes. You may even find a knowledgeable AA guy out there as some of them do take a real interest in these cars.

Failing that if you have a very local and trusted garage (don’t forget safe jacking up with pucks) get it sorted by them, personally I would just send Tesla the bill.

I pass through Whitland/St Clears/Carmarthen regularly so maybe see you around sometime :)
 
Just had my M3LR picked up one week ago. Getting brake warning light saying brake fluid low! Less than 500 miles on car. No mobile service and nearest Tesla centre appointment a month away and 2.5hr drive. Thinking of just getting local garage to have a look or top up if low. However wouldn’t know if anything more serious. Any suggestions.

Oh dear. This was very common last year and I had been assured by Tesla that this is now one thing they do check, but clearly not.

If same as last years problems, hopefully it is a fluid topup thats needed, but do get it checked in case its something more or levels got too low and air has entered the system.
 
No I'm not joking. Brakes are a consumable just like tyres and require the owner to inspect from time to time and maintain as necessary. Just waiting until a scheduled service or until a warning light comes on can lead to problems. You have to use your eyes and look at them and take remedial action if required.

Be real bloke. Us enthusiasts normally do and even then most of us dont have a look until something feels wrong or we have an advisor on the mot. These days we have sensors as to negate having to keep an eye on things with the average joe in mind. Tpms, brake pad wear etc.

This is a case of premature failure by design as mentioned or maybe a case every driver needing a degree in quantum physics before being aloud to own a tesla or anything else for that matter these days :rolleyes:
 
Just had my M3LR picked up one week ago. Getting brake warning light saying brake fluid low! Less than 500 miles on car. No mobile service and nearest Tesla centre appointment a month away and 2.5hr drive. Thinking of just getting local garage to have a look or top up if low. However wouldn’t know if anything more serious. Any suggestions.
Top up the fluid.
That's what we did back in the day. :D