Then I would say you have a strong case and that’s pathetic that Tesla is denying it. I have my doubts about powder coating being a cause as there are others like yourself that have had this problem without powder coating or other modifications. Good luck on challenging it, Tesla should do the right thing.
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Then I would say you have a strong case and that’s pathetic that Tesla is denying it. I have my doubts about powder coating being a cause as there are others like yourself that have had this problem without powder coating or other modifications. Good luck on challenging it, Tesla should do the right thing.
Yep in the past I had this happen after one hard stop on the freeway. The rotors felt warped and it took almost a month of normal driving to wear the excess pad material off of the rotors. (Though I could actually see it.) I probably could have worn it off faster with a bedding procedure, but it didn't bother me enough to do that.
Besides heat transfer I think the worry is that the powder coating wouldn't be flat/equal across the mounting surface which would cause uneven torqueing of the rotor. It could be possible that you have a defective wheel or that the lug nuts weren't properly torqued...
Trust me, I know what a defective wheel is like, and am also aware of the difference.
In this case, the vibration and shuddering are only present when braking, and even then it's intermittent. These are the hallmarks of warped or otherwise degraded rotors.
I wasn't thinking that the possible defective wheel is directly related to the vibration, I was thinking that the mating surface could be flawed and cause inconsistent torqueing on the rotor.
Conclusion: advised on Friday afternoon that my SA states, " . . . found several spots where the wear is excessive and clearly due to excessive braking maneuvers."
This is a remarkable discovery as the car is driven sedately compared to the lives of MANY previous BMW's (something to do with the P100D weighing about 5k pounds). So the rotors so they were replaced at my expense.
Nice.
We'll see if they're even my rotors when I pick it up on Monday, but this sort of customer treatment on what was a $150k vehicle only 10k miles ago is truly an insult.
Arbitration--here I come. Just unbelievably poor customer/warranty service, but such is life in the new Teslaland.
This is a remarkable discovery as the car is driven sedately compared to the lives of MANY previous BMW's (something to do with the P100D weighing about 5k pounds). So the rotors so they were replaced at my expense.
Nice.
We'll see if they're even my rotors when I pick it up on Monday, but this sort of customer treatment on what was a $150k vehicle only 10k miles ago is truly an insult.
Arbitration--here I come. Just unbelievably poor customer/warranty service, but such is life in the new Teslaland.
I was in the same boat as you about 6 weeks ago. Model S85 with 68k miles had some nasty pulsation when braking heavily from 60+ mph. Service center said the rotors were warped and they were on me despite having 2 years left on the CPO warranty because they were a wear item. Parts and labor was something extravagant ($1200+) and I argued that an electric car wearing out rotors in that number of miles was obviously a material defect, but that fell on deaf ears. I didn't think it worth much of my energy so I took the car back and ordered a new set of Powerstop pads and drilled/slotted rotors that I'll install on my lift at home for about $180.
Drilled rotors are prone to cracking. It is cosmetic not a beneficial thing.
Even the pad outgassing argument is crap as modern pads are not prone to that the way OLD stuff was.
If anything they run hotter due to the small mass reduction leaving less mass to soak up the energy.
All you needed was pads unless the rotors are visibly damaged, grooves or rust/ putting on the friction surface.
Even the pad outgassing argument is crap as modern pads are not prone to that the way OLD stuff was.
If anything they run hotter due to the small mass reduction leaving less mass to soak up the energy.
All you needed was pads unless the rotors are visibly damaged, grooves or rust/ putting on the friction surface.
I have 34 miles, Notices rotors uneven before 30K. Brake pads, originals, are fine. I use the brakes minimally with Regen. Most miles highway driving. Tesla says tough luck, wear and tear item. Seems hard to understand if minimal pad wear. Owned combustion motor cars for many decades and no such problems. Any ideas?
whitex
Well-Known Member
Dannietjoh
Member
Dannietjoh
Member
whitex
Well-Known Member
I've had warped rotors with every internal combustion car I ever owned except for Porsche. That included Hyundai, Hondas, Acuras, Toyotas, VWs, Lexuses. The problem always occurred about 2 years in, so was usually covered by the bumper to bumper warranty (though sometimes it required some spirited arguments with the service manager, some of whom suggested fixing/polishing the rotors on my dime rather than replace on the manufacturer's dime, the latter being actually cheaper even if I had to pay for it). Finally, one mechanic explained to me once how that happens - I used to drive on highways a lot where I would rarely touch the brake pedal, then when I exit I would brake from high speed, which generates a lot of heat very quickly, then usually sit at a light right after exiting, causing uneven cooling of the rotor. I can see Tesla with regen making this effect even worse. The mechanic suggested to simply creep the car a bit at the light after braking from high speeds on cool brakes, when stopped to make sure it's not sitting with brake pads gripping the rotors in one spot for a prolonged time. I've been using this on my Model S with success. My wife's Model S had warped rotors already (was covered under warranty as it happened in under 2 years, though it was before the Model 3/Y flood and laser focus on profit), my Model S never did even though the car is much older and I drive faster than my wife.
Yep, this is an old track day trick - also shut the car off and leave it in gear with the parking brake off after a session.
Dannietjoh
Member
I always ensure that, besides never sitting on the brake after using it heavily, to use only regen braking for the last few minutes of a drive. I checked a few times and usually the front rotors can easily be touched directly after a drive.(don't try at home! if you do feel the rim and if it radiates first)
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