MichaelP90DL
Active Member
That's just a way to turn on Ludicrous mode. Has the same effect as touching Ludicrous+ and enabling max battery power. But the star-streak graphics are cool. Watch out for stray planets, asteroids, comets and black holes.
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Watts Up? Help a brother out..
- Thread starter Gutch
- Start date
“Venom” has been incredible! Love this car. Fixed the door handle, buffed the car, installed a Blackvue and now it’s ready to rip.
Thanks for everyone’s help and advice. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for everyone’s help and advice. Greatly appreciated.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
MichaelP90DL
Active Member
Battery check: If memory serves, crank the wheel all the way left. Use a flashlight. Write down the part number. Have fun ripping. Don't crash it. LOL
Right on, just had the wheels off- should have looked then. So far, no issues. Got a little carbon bling coming and iPhone IR charger and venom is done.
My brakes seem a little raspy kinda, I’m guessing they need to be used a bit to knock the dust off the rotors.
I’ll find out the sticker info, then y’all can tell me what I have!
My brakes seem a little raspy kinda, I’m guessing they need to be used a bit to knock the dust off the rotors.
I’ll find out the sticker info, then y’all can tell me what I have!
JamstationP85D
Member
I just got my TSportline FBR back from the paint shop. Will wait a couple weeks before I PPF it and install (even though it was baked I am not in a hurry as its winter here in Toronto). Also added the rear carbon diffuser, spoiler, chrome delete. I have the lowering links and 20mm hub centric spacers that will go on in the spring when I remove the 19 inch winters and put the 21’s back on. The quality of the TSprortline looks top-notch (to me) but I also haven't installed it yet either. And no.. the wife does not approve of large car parts in our house hallways 
Have you tried using the online form?
Log into your Tesla Account, click on Account, scroll down to Ownership Transfer and click on Add a car to your account.
JamstationP85D
Member
Send a pic of your ownership and license to [email protected]. I did mine early Dec 2019 and it took 10 days. I didn’t hear anything back until they sent a welcome email.
JamstationP85D
Member
The main reason I needed it was to pre-heat the car etc through the app (its cold af in Toronto). Setting up teslafi and other apps were also benefits. But once I got it transferred I started getting supercharging bills. The 10 or so supercharges I did before it was transferred never got billed to me. Just sayin....
Battery condition, capacity, and the real range are important things to learn about your new car. And it takes a bit of work to determine. The cars display of full charge range is NOT reliable.
Set your battery display to battery percent (rather than miles). Take a long drive and compare battery percent used to miles driven. You will then know your cars real full charge range. Using the cars trip computer you can also use this test trip to calculate your cars total usable battery capacity.
Start your test trip after you finish charging. This resets the counters in the trip computer so that at the end of the test trip you have a display of miles driven since last charge and kwh used since last charge. Divide these numbers by the change in battery percent. This change in battery percent needs to be changed to a decimal amount. So if you drive from 80% to 30%, the difference is 50%. 50% is 0.5. If you drove from 85% to 10%, that would be 75%, or 0.75.
So here is an example. At the end of your test trip the battery percent has gone from 80% to 30%. The trip computer shows that you went 100 miles and that the energy used was 36 kwh. 100 miles divided by 0.5 is 200 miles. That is your cars real full charge range. 36 kwh used divided by 0.5 is 72kwh. This is your cars total usable battery capacity.
A couple extra things. This calculation is more accurate the longer that your test trip is. No magic number. But should be at least 50% of the battery capacity. Brief stops on your test trip are fine. Range is variable depending on driving style, ambient temperature, etc. For example, driving at 80 uses much more energy than driving at 65. The cabin heater and battery heater use considerable electricity in very cold weather. Going up long hills uses lots of electricity. So your test trip should not be a net uphill or downhill trip.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I respectfully disagree. The SOC range is very accurate, and there's an easy way to calculate it, you don't need to do a "test trip". Just take the current rated miles SOC, and divide that by the % battery SOC, and you get the estimated 100% charge in rated miles. In my P85DL, this is remarkable accurate +/- 1 mile. No matter what state of charge I am at, the calculation for me is always between 266 and 267 rated miles. And when I do a full 100% range charge, that's what I get. And if I drive at approximately 300 Wh/mile, I'll pretty much get that same rated mileage out of the battery (I think for the P85D the calculated rated consumption rate is 290Wh/m). But my average consumption rate is more like 330Wh/m, so I get about 10% less than the rated range on the battery indicator. Likewise, if you drive more conservatively at less than average 300Wh/m, you'll get a lot more than the stated rated range. It's not that complicated -- it's all about watching your Wh/m during any trip and adjusting your mental calculation accordingly, since Wh/m changes due to many different factors.
Good for you that you achieve your cars display of range. Many other owners, including myself, find the displayed rated range largely unachievable. Worse, the displayed range can be undiminished even when the battery capacity is significantly diminished. Thus my assertion that the cars display of range is in general not reliable.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
As I said, if you drive the average rated Wh/m for your car, you will achieve the full rated range of the battery. I trust the near-decade of engineering that the Tesla engineers have built into the BMS. The rated Wh/m for each trim has been posted, I'll try to find it later. Of course, in reality, most people do not drive that conservatively, so the full rated range will always be more than one gets when actually driving the car. But it's not a 'calculate it once' kind of thing using your method, it's something you need to calculate on-the-fly each and every time you drive taking your current average Wh/m into account (if you are even worried about getting the full range out of your battery).
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