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What Adaptor Do I Need For MY Garage
- Thread starter SeanSethi81
- Start date
I am a bit lost here, perhaps because I am on a European car with CCS and Type 2 instead of J1772, but I simply can't make any sense out of this.
What is the J17772 button you are referring to? Where is it placed?
I would assume that it is a button on the J1772 plug, right?
That is exactly the button I was talking about. I need that button for unlocking the port, so I can remove the plug from the car without having to fumble with the app or the in-car screen. How is the situation described by you different?
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I paid USD $225 for a 50A breaker and an outlet (in a pretty old house though), so you can figure out your personal relationship with you builder as long as you want but but it won't help you to charge your car when it comes. You have to install a 50A (or 60A) breaker about now. You also need to order 14-50 adapter from Tesla ASAP!!!
Please don't just get the receptacle from Home Depot. The Leviton receptacles are not very good(aka crap) for EV charging.
Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
And I see you haven't yet answered the wire gauge question. That's important, and will affect your choice of breaker and outlet, and what adapter you should order from Tesla.
garth_angst
Member
Nema 5-15? They are giving this now? When I got my car in May 2019, they stopped the Nema 14-50. Are you saying they now include a Nema 5-15?
I second that. Home Depot is definitely not the way to go. You need a high quality outlet. I had my electrician put in a Nema 6-50 outlet because my electric company was offering $500 off a Chargepoint Homeflex, which unfortunately the one they sold was 6-50, not 14-50. When I asked him if I should pick up the 6-50 outlet at Home Depot, he laughed at me.
By the way, I already had the Tesla HPWC, but with the ChargePoint I get it practically for free with the rebate, my electric company will give me a 5 cents per kWh discount if charged at night, and you never know what additional non-Tesla cars may join the family.
It's the release button on the J1772 handle/nozzle. Since approximately the July 2021 update, the car (personally verified on 3 and Y) will wake up if you press the button while it is plugged into the car. If there is key, like a phone, is nearby it will unlock the adapter so you can fully unplug the car without having to fumble with the app or do the dance of opening a door to wake the car up first.
Hmm, as far as I remember they always supplied the 5-15 adapter. That's the adapter you need to plug into "regular" North American 120V outlet. Basically they used to give you two, the 5-15 and 14-50 and now you just get the 5-15 with the mobile connector. It would be odd for them to supply the mobile connector with no adapters at all.
So you agree with my that the button has this function.
There is something fundamentally wrong in our communication, because what I hear you say is basically:
"You don't need the button, because you can just press the button."
I am pretty sure that this is not what I am supposed to read, but you are not really helping me to understand it differently.
garth_angst
Member
Stupid me. I knew they had the 5-15. I thought I hit cancel instead of post. When I first read it, I misread it as a different adapter.
Yes - if the run to the panel is Romex, a 40 amp breaker would be appropriate. There is an exception in the NEC (Nat'l Electrical Code) which allows using a 14-50 (and 6-50) on a 40 amp circuit.
Yes, that's allowed. The max continuous(EV) draw on the circuit will be 32 amps. The current UMC is limited to 32 amps in any case.
Thanks everyone. I just ordered this breaker and outlet for my garage. also a flip cover but that won't arrive till December. My panel brand is Siemens so the breaker should fit in it. The outlet is the one on Amazon.ca that is reasonably priced and a lot of the reviewers use it for their Tesla.
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The only way I would use that outlet is if I was going to plug in the mobile connector and never unplug it. Outlets in that price range normally are designed for something to be "plugged in and left" like an oven, or something like that. If thats what you are doing, then its likely fine. If you are intending to unplug your mobile connector from that outlet to take it with you several times, I would get a better outlet.
EDIT: To see the difference in a high quality outlet vs lower quality one, check this thread:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
EDIT: To see the difference in a high quality outlet vs lower quality one, check this thread:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
I intend on leaving it in and not removing it. There are a lot of charging options in my City and surrounding area. There are 20 Tesla Super Chargers 5 mins from my house as well.
Wow, I am just catching up on this thread from the beginning, and it was quite an adventure. It's all good, and I'll just weigh in with confirming a couple things:
Yes, the 8 gauge Romex in wall is rated for 40A circuits, so that's good. And yes, it's an allowed exception to use 50A outlet types on 40A circuits with 40A breakers.
That is a cheapy kind of outlet, probably like a Leviton, but will generally be fine for those two reasons: you're leaving it plugged in the vast majority of the time, and the charging cable the car comes with can only draw 32A, so it's less stress on the connections than if you were trying to draw 40A.
I discovered kind of late to the game that I did get a Leviton, when my outlet was originally installed in 2014, and have been using it ever since, but I do keep my amps turned down to 31 to keep it less stress and heat, and the cable stays plugged in all the time. I did get a wall connector free, but have not gotten around to doing the install of it to replace the outlet yet.
Yes, the 8 gauge Romex in wall is rated for 40A circuits, so that's good. And yes, it's an allowed exception to use 50A outlet types on 40A circuits with 40A breakers.
That is a cheapy kind of outlet, probably like a Leviton, but will generally be fine for those two reasons: you're leaving it plugged in the vast majority of the time, and the charging cable the car comes with can only draw 32A, so it's less stress on the connections than if you were trying to draw 40A.
I discovered kind of late to the game that I did get a Leviton, when my outlet was originally installed in 2014, and have been using it ever since, but I do keep my amps turned down to 31 to keep it less stress and heat, and the cable stays plugged in all the time. I did get a wall connector free, but have not gotten around to doing the install of it to replace the outlet yet.
The current difference between a Tesla EVSE and the J1772 is when you are plugging in. A Tesla one will open the port cover if you press button on the handle/nozzle *before* you plug it in. If you are the type to plug-in immediately after parking, then J1772 not being able to open the port is not much of an issue since you can open the charge port door easily by pressing *the door* because the car is still fully awake and unlocked.
There used to be a difference when you were unplugging. Before the July update, a Tesla that was asleep would not respond to the J1772 unlock button being pressed. You could unplug the J1772 nozzle but the adapter would stay locked in. Since the update the car will wake up and unlock the adapter. I believe (although I don't recall testing it) that Tesla ones woke the car up and would unlock, assuming a key was present even before the update.
So in summary, I was pointing two advantages for the Tesla over generic J1772 but that is now just one with an easy workaround. This is presumably information the OP can use to decide if a generic J1772 EVSE would make them "happy".
Sorry, but that is just a reiteration of what you already wrote. You have still not explained the part with: "You don't need the button, because you can just press the button".
I give up.
I give up.
JPP
Active Member
Please do all of us a favor and spend the extra $40-50 for the best NEMA 14-50R. If you find yourself actually unplugging the Mobile Connector a few times that will put some strain on it. Also the quality and design of the screw down clamps for the wires (on the back of the connector) is light years different. Be safe. Not worth the $$ savings.
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