I don't charge at home myself, but here's how I see it:
You can lower your charging amperage in order to complete your charge about the time you would normally leave the house. That would put a bit less strain on your wiring but at the very slight cost of increasing the amount of power it take to charge. The reason? There's a fixed amount of power that goes into the car that is not directed into your main battery. Lowering the "speed" of your charge means more time is spent keeping the car's computers running rather than putting energy back into the battery.
By leaving the default amps to 24A, which implies that you are connecting to a 30A outlet (6-30, 10-30, or 14-30), you would be charging the car the fastest and thus minimizing the power "wasted". Yes, that could mean a slightly more warmer wiring but if you take the time and inspect the socket and wiring to make sure it's not getting hot, then that should be no problem. While you're at it, check to see what size wire is being used for that outlet. 30A should be provisioned with at least 10AWG copper; 8 would be better. Also I would check to see what brand of outlet you have. Residential ones are cheaper than commercial or industrial versions but you get what you pay for. If this dryer outlet was installed when the house was built, I would look into swapping it out for a better one as soon as possible. Charging a car can be much harder on the wiring/socket than running a dryer for a couple of hours.
Also, if you have a time-of-use electricity plan, you may want to make sure that you are charging at the lowest cost time of day. Check your rate plan for details. Going to a lower amperage will increase the time needed to fully charge and that may put you into a higher cost electrical rate.