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infidel82
Member
A typical technique I have used for years on other cars and will be applying to my brand new MS60 in Pearl White this weekend will be as follows. The paint is brand new so this is a new experience for me... typically I have always revived older paint...
1) Wash it using foam lance and pressure rinse
2) Hand dry (3 drying towels)
3) Apply Zymol Polish by hand (Light colours its great for, darks it is also good but harder work). Typically I will do two coats to ensure every area is covered but it is not necessary.
4) Apply Wolfgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Sealant (aka Wolfgang WG-5500).This is a polymer based sealant that will give you months of seal (6 months easy). Easy to apply and will give you a mirror finish.
4) Apply P21S Carnuba Wax. This is absolutely NOT needed - The Wolfgang will bead water just fine and is intended as a top coat. However adding the P21S will give you more depth to the shine. Historically Ive seen the best results on darker and red cars, and less pronounced results on white and silver cars. Regardless I shall give it a go.
When I have a few miles on it then I insert a clay bar rub down as step (2) especially for high wear areas (front, mirrors and behind the rear wheels).
I do this all by hand however I have used a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital successfully. If you do use the PC buffer, be careful to apply VERY light pressure with the aluminium in the MS.
1) Wash it using foam lance and pressure rinse
2) Hand dry (3 drying towels)
3) Apply Zymol Polish by hand (Light colours its great for, darks it is also good but harder work). Typically I will do two coats to ensure every area is covered but it is not necessary.
4) Apply Wolfgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Sealant (aka Wolfgang WG-5500).This is a polymer based sealant that will give you months of seal (6 months easy). Easy to apply and will give you a mirror finish.
4) Apply P21S Carnuba Wax. This is absolutely NOT needed - The Wolfgang will bead water just fine and is intended as a top coat. However adding the P21S will give you more depth to the shine. Historically Ive seen the best results on darker and red cars, and less pronounced results on white and silver cars. Regardless I shall give it a go.
When I have a few miles on it then I insert a clay bar rub down as step (2) especially for high wear areas (front, mirrors and behind the rear wheels).
I do this all by hand however I have used a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital successfully. If you do use the PC buffer, be careful to apply VERY light pressure with the aluminium in the MS.
infidel82
Member
Not really (for manual application. For using a random orbital there are lots of techniques and it requires you to be careful). For manual:
Use a applicator pad and apply to technical one panel at a time (I do one side at a time just to keep time spent reasonable) and apply in small circular motions. I will do three one direction three the other. Let it haze lightly. The using a clean polishing cloth buff it off in straight motions. For the Zymol it can leave powder residue so I usually flip the buffing cloth after maybe 10 "buffs" to shake the powder out. If you have compressed air it is really good if you get the residue in the cracks - it'll blow it right out!
If you speak to the professional detailers they will have some really specific methods, but honestly for a normal person like me - I like cleaning the car but also I have other stuff to do, so a compromise is fine. Using this method (in its entirety) is half a day to do the entire car.
infidel82
Member
OK so after a morning of doing this here are some pictures that may help people decide. As a disclaimer Im not a professional detailer and I know it can be done better. That said I have no intention of spending the entire day cleaning the car when I could be having a beer.
Ive included some photos below that show Wolfgang 3.0 ONLY on the RIGHT (up to step 4) and Wolfgang 3.0 AND P21S on the LEFT. Observations:
Overall, I think it is personal preference and also highly dependent on the colour of the car.
- The car is Pearl White and has about 100 miles on it
- Step 1: Washed it with a foam lance. Dried it.
- Step 2: Applied one coat of Zymol "Cleaner Wax" using foam applicator pad and buffed off with microfibre polishing cloth (I don't know why they call it cleaner wax it seems to be a lot more like polish.
- Step 3: The residue from the Zymol was a bastard to see so I used Meguiars quick detailer and a microfibre cloth to wipe down the each panel prior to Step 4
- Step 4: Applied Wolfgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with foam pad and buffed off with microfibre polishing cloth
- Step 5: Applied P21S Wax with supplied foam pad and buffed off with microfibre polishing cloth
Ive included some photos below that show Wolfgang 3.0 ONLY on the RIGHT (up to step 4) and Wolfgang 3.0 AND P21S on the LEFT. Observations:
- Unfortunately I had to move the car to avoid the sun and I don't have a "controlled lighting" environment so the comparison pictures are not great
- The Wolfgang 3.0 gives a mirror like finish. Its really impressive however I will state that it does not accentuate the depth of the pearl coat I would imagine if you do not have pearl or metallic colours having this as your final coat will be fine. The product itself is VERY easy to use and plays nice with the chrome and plastic trim on the MS.
- Adding the P21S does take quite a bit of time but it adds a lot of depth that is really really hard to see in the photos. It is not light and day but it looks "deep" in a way that the Wolfgang 3.0 does not. It does maintain a mirror finish but possibly a little less than Wolfgang 3.0 by itself.
Overall, I think it is personal preference and also highly dependent on the colour of the car.
More water, and patience.Soaking the splattered guts usually makes them release their hold. If some are being stubborn, I'll use the glass/surface cleaner on the cloth and hold it on the area for 30 seconds or so before trying to wipe. Focus on small sections at a time.
Removing stuck-on bird crap from the hood is a similar but longer process. I soak a washcloth-sized microfiber towel in water, fold it in quarters and place it over the spot. Then slowly pour a cup of water over the cloth and let it sit and really soak in. After an hour or so, the guano particles should be completely saturated with water and can be easily wiped up.
Once, I had a blob of some sticky sap-like residue get on the paint. To remove that, I sparingly used some "Goof-Off" solvent squirted onto a cloth. As soon as it was removed, I washed the area completely with lots of water to remove any traces of the solvent.
That's pretty much it. I'm sure there are better and more professional methods (and cleaning products) to use. I am not an expert. Also, I'm completely lax about applying wax. But this is what works for me.
Thank you - will give it a try... that is a lot of patience though! I am going to get the clear bra soon and hope that makes it easier too.
Going a little off topic - I see you have the newer model and took off the front license plate holder. Did you do that yourself? Wondering what you used to plug the screw holes.. The car did not come with these.. or at least mine didn't.. Thank you
I use ONR and am very happy with it. I love being able to use just 2 gallons of water for a full wash, and being able to do it in the garage out of the sun and heat.
Here's an older post with a video that shows how easy it is #20.
When I'm done washing the body, I use the remaining ONR in the bucket and some old/cheaper microfiber towels to do the wheels.
It takes me about 20 minute for the car and about 15 for the wheels. If I'm in a hurry, I just skip the wheels.
Here's an older post with a video that shows how easy it is #20.
When I'm done washing the body, I use the remaining ONR in the bucket and some old/cheaper microfiber towels to do the wheels.
It takes me about 20 minute for the car and about 15 for the wheels. If I'm in a hurry, I just skip the wheels.
Jim J
Member
microfiber for all surfaces inside and out.
The cloud I get it but some places like chicago have incredible amounts of salt etc. in winter making that method a bit harder for us.
Also water is a very poor lubricant which is why using a detail spray or a wax combo with it makes it a bit safer.
The cloud I get it but some places like chicago have incredible amounts of salt etc. in winter making that method a bit harder for us.
Also water is a very poor lubricant which is why using a detail spray or a wax combo with it makes it a bit safer.
Jim J
Member
While I've owned nice cars over the years never as nice as this. I went to YouTube and watched like a hundred videos about car care. Adams, chemical guys, etc. lots of great product s and tips and I learned a lot. 8 months and my car has never seen a car wash. Nothing has touched it but microfiber. More of a pain on the ass but well worth it when people comment on the car and I'm proud of how it looks. I never understood how people can buy a beautiful expensive car and never wash it. Dirty wheels, dirty car etc.. really? You spent a hundred grand on a car and it looks like *sugar*? Cant spend 20 on a car wash? Just sort of going on here after a few margaritas.
Jim J
Member
infidel82
Member
The service center has left a small bag in the frunk with two plastic plugs which popped straight in. Not that it matters you can't see them At all. I would recommend the 90 degree plier method for the security bolts too, the cutting a slot method just seems like a pain.
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