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What do yo do for a flat tire?

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I've done several long trips with a plug kit and compressor. I also pack coveralls, needle nose pliers, a small tarp and a good flashlight. I have yet to pick up a nail/screw, etc.. with my M3 or MY but have plugged several tires over the years, including run flats. I have yet to need any roadside assistance (45 years of driving). Everyone has a phone nowadays so short of off-roading I feel confident with this setup.
 
I bought this from Griot's Garage. Similar to what Tesla used to keep in stock. Fits in the shallow area below the hatch floor, along with the travel charger:

 
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If you still have OEM stock tires, I doubt that the tire sealant goo will work with the sound deadening foam in the tires... probably why it is no longer offered in the Tesla store.

I have the pump and a basic tire plug kit (needle nose pliers to remove object, reamer, plug threader, plugs, extra rubber cement goop to put on plugs and diagonal cutters to cut off plug flush with tire surface). If I have a sidewall blowout I have AAA, but that is mostly for the wife in case she has troubles when I am not with her.

Keith
 
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If you don't get the Modern spare kit, which takes up space in your trunk, some of the things I use are
  • Air Pump - any type you like. Mine includes a light on it.
  • Tire pressure gauge - More reliable than many gauges on air pump
  • Tire plug kit or equivalent tools and parts
  • Porsche Aluminum Scissor jack - this needs to e modified, but is light weight and strong, and most importantly, has a low profile that works with a flat tire. See this article on modifying the jack
  • Jack pucks - These are required if yourself, a towing company or repair shop does not have them and needs to lift your car.
  • A good Flashlight - Needed to see a puncture or damage in a tire.
  • Lug nut wrench - Needed to remove tire. This is the one I use.
If you have a tow hitch, there are mounts on it that can store a spare tire on the back of the car, but may limit your access to the trunk depending on type.
 
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I would be caution using that jack. From what I'm reading, it has a safe working load of 1000kg (2240 lbs). The Model Y LR AWD has a curb weight teetering over 2000kg (4500 lbs) unloaded. The general rule of thumb I learned was the working load needs to be 2/3 the weight of the vehicle at min. This was before super stiff vehicles like the MY existed, so I'm not sure if that napkin math works out.

While it's certainly possible to operate the jack and complete the tasks safely of swapping or repairing a tire, I just caution that this is eating up all factor of safety and the flustered, frustrated version of yourself who is on the side of the road needs to be very careful and deliberate when lifting the vehicle.

Alternatively, you can source a heavier, 2T (4000 lbs) scissor jack and have some piece of mind, though it will likely not be as compact and light as the aluminum version! I know this may be unreasonably cautious but scissorjacks are inherently unstable for the application we use them in and I would hate for our weight weenie tendencies (let's face it, weight = more kW) to drive a 200 dollar repair bill and 30 minute repair or swap through the rough.
 
Get the slime kit. It’s the same as the one Tesla sells but much less expensive. So far I’ve gotten two flats in my MY, one in my Clarity, all three times the slime worked and got me to the Tesla service center (or regular tire shop) where I got a new tire and was on my way in about an hour (all three were unpatchable. I’m just really unlucky I suppose)
 
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I would be caution using that jack. From what I'm reading, it has a safe working load of 1000kg (2240 lbs). The Model Y LR AWD has a curb weight teetering over 2000kg (4500 lbs) unloaded. The general rule of thumb I learned was the working load needs to be 2/3 the weight of the vehicle at min. This was before super stiff vehicles like the MY existed, so I'm not sure if that napkin math works out.

While it's certainly possible to operate the jack and complete the tasks safely of swapping or repairing a tire, I just caution that this is eating up all factor of safety and the flustered, frustrated version of yourself who is on the side of the road needs to be very careful and deliberate when lifting the vehicle.

Alternatively, you can source a heavier, 2T (4000 lbs) scissor jack and have some piece of mind, though it will likely not be as compact and light as the aluminum version! I know this may be unreasonably cautious but scissorjacks are inherently unstable for the application we use them in and I would hate for our weight weenie tendencies (let's face it, weight = more kW) to drive a 200 dollar repair bill and 30 minute repair or swap through the rough.
I agree that you want to have as much safety margin as you can, but the height of the chassis ends up being a problem if you have anything but a low-profile jack. This is because of the clearance with a fully flat tire,

The weight of the MYLR is about 4400 lbs (4419 for Performance). 2/3 of that weight would be 2933 lbs, or 1.5 tons, so that is what you are looking for. Ideally, if you could bring a shop jack that was low profile, that would be ideal but the weight can be in the order of 30 to 40 pounds. The Porsche jacks are rated for 2 tons (I don't know if all are). This article discusses this. And of course, one should always bring a piece of wood to put under the jack in case you are on mud. And be careful anytime you are using any jack, and especially a scissor jack. Never put any body part under the car while jacked.
 
In an emergency you could drive onto a short board to raise up the vehicle enough for a non-low profile jack to fit. Lift pads, lift pucks whatever you call them are nice to have but not essential. FWIW if you ever have Tesla Mobile Service rotate your tires they don't use a lift pad. A lift pad should only be used with a floor jack that has a metal cup at the end of the lift arm to surround and capture the lift pad, else the lift pad could slide off of the jack.
 
I agree that you want to have as much safety margin as you can, but the height of the chassis ends up being a problem if you have anything but a low-profile jack. This is because of the clearance with a fully flat tire,

The weight of the MYLR is about 4400 lbs (4419 for Performance). 2/3 of that weight would be 2933 lbs, or 1.5 tons, so that is what you are looking for. Ideally, if you could bring a shop jack that was low profile, that would be ideal but the weight can be in the order of 30 to 40 pounds. The Porsche jacks are rated for 2 tons (I don't know if all are). This article discusses this. And of course, one should always bring a piece of wood to put under the jack in case you are on mud. And be careful anytime you are using any jack, and especially a scissor jack. Never put any body part under the car while jacked.
If you use either jack point on one side of the Tesla it will lift up that entire side of the vehicle... could you use the jack point that is away from the flat tire to get enough clearance for a heavy duty jack, and after the car is up put a jack stand under the jack point next to the flat tire for safety and stability?

Keith
 
If you use either jack point on one side of the Tesla it will lift up that entire side of the vehicle... could you use the jack point that is away from the flat tire to get enough clearance for a heavy duty jack, and after the car is up put a jack stand under the jack point next to the flat tire for safety and stability?

Keith
For sure; usually it is the front jack point that is used to lift both wheels of the Tesla vehicle off the ground. There still might not be enough ground clearance to use a non-low profile jack without first driving onto a curb or a piece of wood to raise up the vehicle.
 
Get the slime kit. It’s the same as the one Tesla sells but much less expensive. So far I’ve gotten two flats in my MY, one in my Clarity, all three times the slime worked and got me to the Tesla service center (or regular tire shop) where I got a new tire and was on my way in about an hour (all three were unpatchable. I’m just really unlucky I suppose)

I'm looking on the Slime web page and see the Slime 50139 (Truck/SUV/Van) which uses the TPMS-safe Slime 10189. Since the Model Y is heavy, I assume that is the one to get?

I want to avoid getting a Modern Spare just because there's no good place to put it -- so Slime that is good for 100-miles is fine for me. And I do drive a lot outside of cell service (mountain valley), had a flat in my 2006 Infiniti M35 this Summer, and did use its spare.

Scott

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MYLR | Red ext | White int | 19" | 5 seats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021
 
1. Will the sealant (in a can) work if the tire has the acoustic foam? can it make it to the puncture site?
2. And in the case it does work. What would happen when you eventually make it to a tire shop. Can they remove the sealant and do their own "proper" patching job? Or is that it for the tire? (you must replace with new tire).
3. What about in the case of plugging? Can the tire shop remove your plug and do their patch or do you have to get new tire?
4. Does the use of the canned sealant have the same limitation as plug/patch in terms of location (i.e., cannot be used if puncture is on/near the sidewall)?