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Interesting that my mid 2017 only had, from your list, the MCU previously and only needs brakes at 130k miles. The driver’s door panels they’ve comped a couple times but not gotten right.I've got a 2016 S 90D
…Several door panels -- constantly working their way loose from the door
…
* MCU memory issue
…
* brake disks / brake pads …
Interesting that my mid 2017 only had, from your list, the MCU previously and only needs brakes at 130k miles. The driver’s door panels they’ve comped a couple times but not gotten right.
Tesla must have comped the 12v without telling me as 6 years is a long time for that to last.
At how many miles did it yours need brakes?
Sub-frame = which will run you over $5000 to replace at Tesla Service
To my knowledge same sub-frame is used. I don't think the sub-frame breaking is related to if you have small or large motor in the rear, but I'd have to leave it to others to comment on this. Just know that it can happen. But keep in mind I have done countless cross country trips and really put a lot of miles on my S. I love to drive her.Do the small motor car's break subframes?
To my knowledge same sub-frame is used. I don't think the sub-frame breaking is related to if you have small or large motor in the rear, but I'd have to leave it to others to comment on this. Just know that it can happen.
Do you think lots of hard accelerations/launches would cause this?
To my knowledge same sub-frame is used. I don't think the sub-frame breaking is related to if you have small or large motor in the rear, but I'd have to leave it to others to comment on this. Just know that it can happen. But keep in mind I have done countless cross country trips and really put a lot of miles on my S. I love to drive her.
It broke at how many miles?
What was the date of the change? Or, if you don’t know, what month and year is your car?…Tesla changed the design on my version.
At 125,353 miles...So after some time for sure. What sucks is I am the drive that tries to avoid every pothole and drives super slow over bumps. So the only thing I can think of is that just the amount of miles I put on it each year is the issue. So that leads me to believe every Model S until 2021 can have this issue if driven a lot. I also had been driving Chill Mode for almost a year...so ya the old grandpa broke the sub-frame of the MS. Strange to me.
What was the date of the change? Or, if you don’t know, what month and year is your car?
What do you mean? Like check to see if there is going to be a failure? I have no clue. My failed very all of a sudden. And then I was SOL and needed to pay for a replacement. Lucky I didn't die on the high way when I was driving and the issue occurred.How would I check on my car's subframe?
How would I check on my car's subframe?
You would have to have the mount "magnafuxed" to check for cracking that would lead to failure.
Magnafluxing - Magnetic Particle Inspection, MPI - Circle Track Magazine
Find out how to use magnafluxing to detect cracks in your racing parts. - Circle Track Magazinewww.motortrend.com
If I owned one of those cars with the bad design, I would seriously consider finding a shop that can do aluminum welding to add gussets to strengthen the mount which would prevent needing to pay $5000 for a major surgery, and maybe dying if it broke while going over a curved, elevated freeway overpass at 70mph or sent me into a head on collision with a truck on a 2 lane country road.
I have a Jan 2017 MS90D build with almost 100k miles.Happy to hear the 2016 is more reliable than the 2014. But the problems you listed are what we have or had in the 2014 so it doesn't sound like much of an improvement.
To your point of no alternative: we've decided to get the car driveable and then we'll trade it in for a Y.
Also, what's the name of your 3rd party insurance? Something for us to look at.
I have a Jan 2017 MS90D build with almost 100k miles.
Non maintenance/upgrade expenses: Under $1k. (Because I hit a major pothole.)
I did pay for upgrades like MCU2 and CCS charging capability. But were not mandatory.
Under warranty, did have 12v replaced once after the first year and a half.
On 3rd set of tires.
I think we can call this one off... never heard of similar case without major accident...Sub-frame = which will run you over $5000 to replace at Tesla Service