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What happens to ceramic coating after it 'wears away'?

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So, I know the DIY ceramic coatings last a couple years. Entry level pro stuff is around 3-5 years, and premium pro stuff is 6+ years, or something roughly like that.

I've watched some DIY vids on doing it, and they all comment that you need to prep the underlying paint and polish it because the coating is 'permanent' and you dont want to trap crap under there. Makes sense, but then it makes me wonder: what happens to the coating at the 'end of life'? ie, if I do the DIY coating, and then re apply it in 2-3 years do I just re-polish the car with a cutting compound, then repeat the same process?

The same question applies for the more 'professional' coatings. What happens after 5+ years and you want to refresh the coating?
 
I am wondering as well, I would think by the end of the cycle, you can tell the coating wears off when it’s no longer hydrophobic. I did it myself couple weeks ago, the difference is day and night. Car is so much easier to wash, you don’t really have to put force in to rub the dirts our. On top of that the sense of accomplishment is amazing.
 
I have asked a similar question to Carpro (Cquartz mfg) and am awaiting response, more specifically whether it's ok to skip the polishing step when the time comes for a re-coat.

I would think that if you're happy with the paint finish at that time(ie. doesn't need a polish), you can just prep the paint by doing a chemical decontamination (no clay bar), IPA wipe and then do a fresh coat of ceramic.
 
I have asked a similar question to Carpro (Cquartz mfg) and am awaiting response, more specifically whether it's ok to skip the polishing step when the time comes for a re-coat.

I would think that if you're happy with the paint finish at that time(ie. doesn't need a polish), you can just prep the paint by doing a chemical decontamination (no clay bar), IPA wipe and then do a fresh coat of ceramic.

Feedback from CarPro:

They do not suggest skipping the polish step when recoating, regardless of underlying paint condition. They recommend a minimum of a hand polish before recoating. This ensures the paintwork is free from any failing coating as recoating on top of failed coating can cause bonding issues.
 
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Opticoat, CQuartz, CeramicPro, 22PLE. Which is the best for re-coat? I think my 4 year old Opticoat is nearly done. As well, other than water drops, how to test if the work was actually done?

IMO the skill level of the tech doing the polishing/application is more important than the actual product used as long the product is known and proven. If your doubting if the work would actually be done I’d be hesitant to use that shop for anything. One of the priorities of the shop I use is developing a personal relationship with their clients. I absolutely trust them.
 
Opticoat, CQuartz, CeramicPro, 22PLE. Which is the best for re-coat? I think my 4 year old Opticoat is nearly done. As well, other than water drops, how to test if the work was actually done?

You could presumably use a paint thickness gauge before and after the job to confirm, I've never done this but would expect an increase in thickness of a few microns. Just a thought.