Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

What have you done to your Roadster today (or lately)...

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Separated the rear subframe and removed the ESS to fix an immersion fault preventing the car from charging. Going to apply some sound deadening to the bulkhead before reassembling. Plus a few other things over the next couple of weeks.

WoW .. i've only seen the ESS dropped out from underneath .. which needs a lift. I can see this method needs less lifting, but wasn't it a big job to get all the rear panels off ? ... Then it looks like a good plan to take off subframe and drive, complete .

Some more pictures of this process would be really good PLEASE ;)
Oh and please share how the ESS opening and fixing goes - will this be done with it still in situ ?
 
Some more pictures of this process would be really good PLEASE ;)
Oh and please share how the ESS opening and fixing goes - will this be done with it still in situ ?

I was able to slide the ESS back away from the car and get the front panel opened up. The actual "fix" took less than 5 minutes once I was in there. o_O Just unplugging the immersion sensor. Its connector couldn't have been in a better place, right under the front cover on the driver side. Now taking the opportunity to load up the bulkhead with sound deadening material.

I've got a few hours of GoPro footage documenting the entire thing. Just need time to edit! A two-post lift is definitely ideal for this kind of work, but this was a workable alternative.

IMG_9279.jpg

IMG_9212.jpg

IMG_9357.jpg
 
Cool! I was just about to ask if you used iDatalink.

Where in the vertical range of mounting is your install?

it’s in the lowest position. Also, I had to pull it out to the extended position (towards the back of the car to clear the dash), and it is horizontally centered.

I’ll write up the iData link separately. The biggest challenge was to figure out the right car to use for wiring harness and firmware - I went with a 2008 Toyota Avalon
 
  • Informative
Reactions: drewski
You, sir have nads of steel employing this Jenganess :eek: And with dual jacks to boot! Can we see the front lift/hold solution?

View attachment 578963

Hah yeah, don't try this at home! It actually wasn't as bad as it looks. The front was supported under the lift points by another pair of the same 6 ton stands, without blocks. Funny thing is with the ESS and subframe removed, the car loses >1500 pounds and becomes nose heavy. The stands in the back were barely supporting it. I could lift the car off of them with one hand. Jacks were only back there to create clearance for sliding the ESS out.

Got everything mounted back up safely last night, so this episode is almost over! Definitely looking at a 2-post lift for "next time".
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: Mark77a and drewski
  • Informative
Reactions: gregd
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/thd-generic-budget-washable-20x25x1/1000431031

I’m sure there is an equivalent product in the US. It’s barely restrictive if at all but it will stop anything large, and being thicker it will take a lot to block the whole thing. I used some dollar store contact adhesive to glue it together and I’ll use some sticky backed Velcro to hold it in place.
Yep, same product available down here. Nicely done.

I was looking at the material used in swamp coolers, and it seemed too dense. The inside filters must be in a different aisle; never thought to look there. I ended up simply stretching some window screen around the blowers, attaching it to the sway bar at the ends. Think one of those New Years' party things where you pull on the ends... Fingers crossed for a different result :).