I think black are the best for glacier blue. But I am considering orange for my winter set. To add a little Gulf Racing effect.
Finally got around to a few mod's: 1. With the help of @slcasner (steve did most of the work) was able to add the third brake light mod. Really is a nice feature to have . 2. While I had the third brake light out I changed out the dome light to a Super Bright LED 194-WHP6, what a difference now you can see inside the car . 3. Changed out the OEM radio to a Pioneer AVH-3500 NEX. What a difference in the sound . 4. The last thing I did was add a "Roadster" badge to the rear of the car. Took a Roadster Sport badge and removed the Sport portion.
I installed a Pioneer AVH-3500 NEX in my Roadster and I used my trusty Dreml cutoff wheel to remove about 3/16" from the outer end of the stalk and then glued the end cap back onto the end. No clearance problems. Can't see any surgical scars.
Woohoo!! nice, would love to see some videos how it functions. Here are some of my installs, stereo finished - video splash screen - video
Since I installed the Pioneer radio I tried retracting the screen only once and per other comments on other threads regarding this upgrade if you pull back on the stalk while the screen is either extending or retracting it clears without any problems. I have left the screen extended, closed off the center vents (not even an issue here in AZ last summer with 115 degree heat) the cabin is so small the side vents provide sufficient cooling to make the car comfortable to drive.
Carbon Fiber vent inserts. Small, expensive, not easy to install - but makes a big visual difference every time you go to get into the vehicle since you can't look at the door open button without seeing them.
The Carbon Fiber vents look great ! Did you install them your self ? I want to upgrade Mine also. How long did the install take? Did you install from the wheel wells? Thank you, Lou
A fellow Roadster owner helped me install them. Yes, from the wheel wells. It's actually not that difficult. First, note that the studs are epoxied to the underside of the car body, so it's actually really easy to torque them off, even with hand tools. It's a 10mm size. Go slow and easy. I ripped once off. Repaired it with the epoxy gel that takes an hour or so to harden (sets in 10 minutes, maybe the longest 10 minutes of my life). I'd start with the driver's side - it's easy to remove the subwoofer chamber (one screw) then you have pretty easy access to the three nuts. Leave the far nut on - the vent hole there is slotted so it can slide in/out. Having a helper to hold the new vent in place while you retighten the nuts is helpful. Just tighten until the nuts touch - then have the helper try to wiggle the vent and tighten whatever seems loose. It's a bit tighter on the passenger side, but do-able. I've read you can alternatively remove the rear deck, but don't know how to do that. Anyway, took us a few hours, but if you know what you're doing I could see getting them done in 45 minutes.