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What is your real range?

hugh_jassol

Member
Jan 26, 2019
769
874
Los Angeles

acarney

Active Member
Jul 9, 2019
2,795
1,798
Richland, WA
This is expected over multiple days or multiple drives. There is a chance you have Sentry mode on (even at home!) and that uses energy when you're parked. It'll drain the battery but it won't factor into your efficiency. You can turn off Sentry mode for a couple days if you want and see if that helps, or at least turn it off at home (if you have a secure parking area) and maybe at work if you can park away from others and not worry about door dings, etc. I suspect that will drastically improve your total range before having to recharge. That said, if you CAN recharge, there is no reason not to plug in every night, even if it's on standard 120 volt "normal" plug. You'll gain back 2 to 3 miles an hour which means at least 20 miles or so every night and might extend out how many days before you have to visit a supercharger or something.

The real test is a road trip of 100 miles or more. Now expect lower than rated range because of highway speeds, but you should be able to get 170 to 180 miles out of the battery at 70mph or so. You should be able to get near 200 to 220 wh/mi at lower speeds (40 to 50 mph) and sub 200 wh/mi at speeds of like 35 mph and lower. If you're in that kind of range, you're fine and the energy loss is coming from being parked. (Either keeping the cabin cool if the sun is heating it up, you can turn this feature off, or Sentry mode or if you have FSD you might have advanced Summon active which will keep the car from going to sleep when parked).
 

Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
6,819
8,430
Boise, ID
i noticed that my car is losing range more than 1 mile/hr every time before going to sleep. I dont use sentry mode. Is it normal or its because im using telafi?
The setting that consumes even more idle energy than sentry mode is called "summon standby". Look for that and turn it off, and that should reduce this energy consumption a lot. And yes, about 1 mile per hour is about what people have been seeing from that setting.
 

kailm

Member
Jul 23, 2019
101
62
San Jose
There are 2 battery consumers in your vehicle

1) The battery itself self discharges or eats it self
2) The car and its electronics.

Unlike a ICE vehicle that when you turn it off, it is off, however the lead acid battery eats itself as well. You just need enough juice to start the engine.
You can turn off #2 so it does nothing and gives you no metrics sentry or anything else. (car power off takes about 4-5 mins from service menu, you will here the contactors thump disconnecting the battery)

But you can never ever turn off #1, you will lose range, slowly but you will lose it over days/weeks.

Your true full range is only valid for continuous drive, day to day you will lose miles. This is how batteries work. This anxiety will die down with 500mi batteries, but till then learning about them is key. Driving at 80mph with aeros gives you only 250 normal case, 275 best case in an awd, LR is better.
Clearly we all want EPA to rate battery cars at 80mph and not its own method.
 
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Led Jetson

Member
Sep 13, 2019
34
38
Naples
So... It's not a bad battery as much as incorrect expectations. Most batteries degrade 5-10% in the first year, and deliver less than optimum range when it's cold or with freeway driving. And you have a Performance. Why did you buy performance when you want range, yet you drive like a teenager? You bought the cheap battery so you could save money, and now you complain.

Oh, well.
You couldn’t be any more wrong with everything you said.
1. 5-10% range loss the first year is not normal for Tesla. There are hundreds of reliable posts that state 1-2% range loss per year can be expected and over a few years of all the reading I have done, seems like 2-3% a year is more like it though.
2. Driving it six months in Chill Mode to test my car’s range is not “driving like a teenager.”
3. Giving a Performance some “Umph” every now and then is not “driving like a teenager.”
4. It’s not cold here, I live in Florida.
5. I avoid the highway to and from work 90% of the time.
6. The 2018 M3P was in no way a “cheap battery.”
7. A 292 kWh/Mi average at 24k miles a year and a half later is not “driving it like a teenager,” either.

I only expect the range that other M3P owners are getting, so save your “know it all attitude and posts” for when you actually know something.
 
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shikataganai

Member
Apr 8, 2020
18
7
Denver
I average about 262 Wh/mile year in, year out. This is in Denver with snow tires on for about 6 months of the year, using the heater and defroster whenever it's appropriate. In summer months I'm closer to 220 Wh/mile.

Reported range with 90% charge on LR AWD is anywhere from 275-282 miles depending on the whim of the car. I've done the go-below-10%-SOC and charge to 100% deal once and didn't seem to do much at all.
 

willow_hiller

Active Member
Apr 3, 2019
3,251
16,495
Maryland
I average about 262 Wh/mile year in, year out. This is in Denver with snow tires on for about 6 months of the year, using the heater and defroster whenever it's appropriate. In summer months I'm closer to 220 Wh/mile.

Reported range with 90% charge on LR AWD is anywhere from 275-282 miles depending on the whim of the car. I've done the go-below-10%-SOC and charge to 100% deal once and didn't seem to do much at all.

That sounds perfectly normal. I don't think you need to recalibrate your BMS. I've some short tests and found that the difference between having the heater on vs off in the winter is about 60 wh/mi (substituting seat heaters for heated air). The EPA rated range doesn't really apply to shorter drives in winter, as the car needs to expend a bit of extra energy warming the pack.
 

Vernünftig

New Member
May 21, 2020
2
2
Utrecht
Here are my recommended settings to maximize range while driving:

1. Keep your aero caps on and make sure they're firmly attached. These can increase your range by about 5%. Make sure your tires are properly inflated to 41 PSI while cold.

2. Set regeneration to Standard instead of low. It will take a while to get used to it, but learning to drive with regen is part of the joy of an EV.

3. Set your driving mode to hold. This strengthens regen more, and lets you try driving with just the accelerator pedal (one pedal driving). The less you can touch the brakes, the more energy you'll save.

4. Chill mode. I know most people hate this, but it's still pretty peppy in chill mode. Nothing kills range more than unnecessary sprints.

5. Set your Autopilot speed to "relative" and set it for 5 MPH over the speed limit. Second to acceleration, range drops off with speed. Use autopilot at a set speed to minimize unnecessary fluctuations in speed and maximize regen on downward slopes.

6. If necessary, turn off the heat and use the seat heater. My tests have shown this can save about 60 wh/mi.

In terms of minimizing phantom drain between drives:

1. Turn off sentry mode if you're parked in a safe-enough part of town. Sentry mode keeps your vehicle awake which drains the battery while you're parked.

2. Don't use third party apps like TeslaFi. Same reasons as above. Every time they query the vehicle for data it wakes it up.

3. Don't constantly check your Tesla App, as this also wakes the vehicle.

The Model 3 SR+ is the most efficient EV in the entire world, and has a bigger battery than 90% of non-Tesla vehicles. If you follow my advice, you should achieve the rated range easily.

I have the impression that turning off AC also helps, so now I use AC only for hot days and to quickly dehumidify the air inside the vehicle. TeslaFi when used with correct settings won't wake up the vehicle too often or unnecessarily.
 
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