When your car is "awake", the computer, LTE, wifi, etc. are all on. That uses 200-300W. Model 3 gets about 250 Wh/mi. So if your car was drawing 250 W of power for an hour.... there's a mile.
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What is your real range?
- Thread starter Plombir
- Start date
This is expected over multiple days or multiple drives. There is a chance you have Sentry mode on (even at home!) and that uses energy when you're parked. It'll drain the battery but it won't factor into your efficiency. You can turn off Sentry mode for a couple days if you want and see if that helps, or at least turn it off at home (if you have a secure parking area) and maybe at work if you can park away from others and not worry about door dings, etc. I suspect that will drastically improve your total range before having to recharge. That said, if you CAN recharge, there is no reason not to plug in every night, even if it's on standard 120 volt "normal" plug. You'll gain back 2 to 3 miles an hour which means at least 20 miles or so every night and might extend out how many days before you have to visit a supercharger or something.
The real test is a road trip of 100 miles or more. Now expect lower than rated range because of highway speeds, but you should be able to get 170 to 180 miles out of the battery at 70mph or so. You should be able to get near 200 to 220 wh/mi at lower speeds (40 to 50 mph) and sub 200 wh/mi at speeds of like 35 mph and lower. If you're in that kind of range, you're fine and the energy loss is coming from being parked. (Either keeping the cabin cool if the sun is heating it up, you can turn this feature off, or Sentry mode or if you have FSD you might have advanced Summon active which will keep the car from going to sleep when parked).
The real test is a road trip of 100 miles or more. Now expect lower than rated range because of highway speeds, but you should be able to get 170 to 180 miles out of the battery at 70mph or so. You should be able to get near 200 to 220 wh/mi at lower speeds (40 to 50 mph) and sub 200 wh/mi at speeds of like 35 mph and lower. If you're in that kind of range, you're fine and the energy loss is coming from being parked. (Either keeping the cabin cool if the sun is heating it up, you can turn this feature off, or Sentry mode or if you have FSD you might have advanced Summon active which will keep the car from going to sleep when parked).
The setting that consumes even more idle energy than sentry mode is called "summon standby". Look for that and turn it off, and that should reduce this energy consumption a lot. And yes, about 1 mile per hour is about what people have been seeing from that setting.
There are 2 battery consumers in your vehicle
1) The battery itself self discharges or eats it self
2) The car and its electronics.
Unlike a ICE vehicle that when you turn it off, it is off, however the lead acid battery eats itself as well. You just need enough juice to start the engine.
You can turn off #2 so it does nothing and gives you no metrics sentry or anything else. (car power off takes about 4-5 mins from service menu, you will here the contactors thump disconnecting the battery)
But you can never ever turn off #1, you will lose range, slowly but you will lose it over days/weeks.
Your true full range is only valid for continuous drive, day to day you will lose miles. This is how batteries work. This anxiety will die down with 500mi batteries, but till then learning about them is key. Driving at 80mph with aeros gives you only 250 normal case, 275 best case in an awd, LR is better.
Clearly we all want EPA to rate battery cars at 80mph and not its own method.
1) The battery itself self discharges or eats it self
2) The car and its electronics.
Unlike a ICE vehicle that when you turn it off, it is off, however the lead acid battery eats itself as well. You just need enough juice to start the engine.
You can turn off #2 so it does nothing and gives you no metrics sentry or anything else. (car power off takes about 4-5 mins from service menu, you will here the contactors thump disconnecting the battery)
But you can never ever turn off #1, you will lose range, slowly but you will lose it over days/weeks.
Your true full range is only valid for continuous drive, day to day you will lose miles. This is how batteries work. This anxiety will die down with 500mi batteries, but till then learning about them is key. Driving at 80mph with aeros gives you only 250 normal case, 275 best case in an awd, LR is better.
Clearly we all want EPA to rate battery cars at 80mph and not its own method.
bradfridell
Member
Led Jetson
Member
You couldn’t be any more wrong with everything you said.
1. 5-10% range loss the first year is not normal for Tesla. There are hundreds of reliable posts that state 1-2% range loss per year can be expected and over a few years of all the reading I have done, seems like 2-3% a year is more like it though.
2. Driving it six months in Chill Mode to test my car’s range is not “driving like a teenager.”
3. Giving a Performance some “Umph” every now and then is not “driving like a teenager.”
4. It’s not cold here, I live in Florida.
5. I avoid the highway to and from work 90% of the time.
6. The 2018 M3P was in no way a “cheap battery.”
7. A 292 kWh/Mi average at 24k miles a year and a half later is not “driving it like a teenager,” either.
I only expect the range that other M3P owners are getting, so save your “know it all attitude and posts” for when you actually know something.
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I average about 262 Wh/mile year in, year out. This is in Denver with snow tires on for about 6 months of the year, using the heater and defroster whenever it's appropriate. In summer months I'm closer to 220 Wh/mile.
Reported range with 90% charge on LR AWD is anywhere from 275-282 miles depending on the whim of the car. I've done the go-below-10%-SOC and charge to 100% deal once and didn't seem to do much at all.
Reported range with 90% charge on LR AWD is anywhere from 275-282 miles depending on the whim of the car. I've done the go-below-10%-SOC and charge to 100% deal once and didn't seem to do much at all.
willow_hiller
Well-Known Member
That sounds perfectly normal. I don't think you need to recalibrate your BMS. I've some short tests and found that the difference between having the heater on vs off in the winter is about 60 wh/mi (substituting seat heaters for heated air). The EPA rated range doesn't really apply to shorter drives in winter, as the car needs to expend a bit of extra energy warming the pack.
I have the impression that turning off AC also helps, so now I use AC only for hot days and to quickly dehumidify the air inside the vehicle. TeslaFi when used with correct settings won't wake up the vehicle too often or unnecessarily.
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