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What I've realized after Dipping my Car

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Noob question... My understanding is that dipping is cheaper than painting. Is that primarily because it doesn't require stripping/sanding? Is it because most people DIY? I'm not a big DIY guy, but I've been considering a wrap, or maybe a professional dip.

Also, to FLDarren, did you know you were going to dip yours when you bought it? I'm trying to figure out why you paid the $1500 for multi-coat red.
 
I love the folded little pieces of tape on the taillights with the small lip to grab hold of. U pull it up and all the dip on that panel will lift with it. Genius!!!!!

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It looks like a electric lime green mixed with some green apple. I love it. NO COLOR IS TOO BOLD FOR THE MODEL S! All colors are fair game. At least that's what I think.
Yeah my friend has been dipping for a long time.

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Noob question... My understanding is that dipping is cheaper than painting. Is that primarily because it doesn't require stripping/sanding? Is it because most people DIY? I'm not a big DIY guy, but I've been considering a wrap, or maybe a professional dip.

Also, to FLDarren, did you know you were going to dip yours when you bought it? I'm trying to figure out why you paid the $1500 for multi-coat red.
Yeah you don't need to strip original paint. Also its not only because of that. The Dip itself Cost around 800$ Canadian. It's the labor that adds a bit (mostly masking time). Also Wraps cost way more, probably because it takes much more time in labor as you have to remove parts where as with dip you just spray it once it's masked off.

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We need more Model S owners with the FLDarren aesthetic. Why should Roadster owners be the only ones with fun colors?

:)
I might do mine burnt copper or another color, I'll change it up for sure.
 
Noob question... My understanding is that dipping is cheaper than painting. Is that primarily because it doesn't require stripping/sanding? Is it because most people DIY? I'm not a big DIY guy, but I've been considering a wrap, or maybe a professional dip.

Also, to FLDarren, did you know you were going to dip yours when you bought it? I'm trying to figure out why you paid the $1500 for multi-coat red.

As long as the paint and clear coat is in good condition, it doesn't need to be sanded. If there is paint chipping or rust, that'll need to be taken care of first. I don't know the cost of automotive paint so I'm guessing here but I'm thinking dip is cheaper. The setup used by professionals dippers aren't necessarily the same as automotive painters so that's a major cost advantage. A paint booth is not required to get outstanding results as seen in Kushari's photos. And lastly, the jambs are rarely dipped. It's kinda pointless to do the jambs as I've stated before.

I didn't know I was going to dip my car when I bought it. It did cross my mind from time to time but I had no plan in doing it. At the time I purchased my car there weren't really any good glossy dip products available. Ask LoL Rick, Great Dane or Btrflyl8e I'm a gloss freak. I didn't want a matte or even satin finish. When DipYourCar released the DipPearl Topcoat things changed. They showed some test pieces and I was blown away. Game over.

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I might do mine burnt copper or another color, I'll change it up for sure.

That's a no no. No burnt copper. Already taken. :wink:
 
Hey, you never changed your name in your sig to "Copper Spaniel". Not much time left... I want to name it in its next iteration!

Completely skipped my mind. I'm planning on peeling the car after the drive electric event next month. I'm gonna rock the red for awhile until the weather cools down.

As long as it's witty. I give u dibs.

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Got some goodies in the mail today. Big sale this past weekend.
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Hi - I am pretty intrigued about dipping my car. Really like the matte look.
sorry about all the questions - really fascinated by dipping:

1. How soon after you get a new Tesla can you dip it?
2. Can I do it outside? How much gets on everything around you?
3. What is a good sprayer to use?
4. I am a still a little confused on the masking, where you say you don't have to worry to much about the chrome and lettering - why not, doesn't it stick to the rest that is attached to the car?
5. Do you need to worry about small "plastic dust" getting into things - like the mechanics for the side mirrors or some other motor in the car?
6. How big of a mess does it make?
7. What kind of practice do I need to do before I try it?
8. What happens if something touches the dip while you are spraying it (dust, leaf, your hand)??
9. What happens when you peel up the masking, does it pull the dip or make a rough edge??

Thanks!!
 
Hi - I am pretty intrigued about dipping my car. Really like the matte look.
sorry about all the questions - really fascinated by dipping:

1. How soon after you get a new Tesla can you dip it?
2. Can I do it outside? How much gets on everything around you?
3. What is a good sprayer to use?
4. I am a still a little confused on the masking, where you say you don't have to worry to much about the chrome and lettering - why not, doesn't it stick to the rest that is attached to the car?
5. Do you need to worry about small "plastic dust" getting into things - like the mechanics for the side mirrors or some other motor in the car?
6. How big of a mess does it make?
7. What kind of practice do I need to do before I try it?
8. What happens if something touches the dip while you are spraying it (dust, leaf, your hand)??
9. What happens when you peel up the masking, does it pull the dip or make a rough edge??

Thanks!!

1. I'd probably wait 60-90 days just to be safe and make absolutely sure the factory paint has fully cured.

2. Yes you can dip it outside, just make sure there is at least a canopy over the car. A 2 car garage is perfect if you can park the car in the middle.

3. A HVLP setup with a large 50-80 gallon compressor can be used. If you don't have that, then I suggest buying the DYC DipSprayer system. It's an airless system. Yes I know stupid name. It uses a turbine connected by a 16 foot hose to the DYC gun. The hopper is huge and this gun lays a ton of product making dipping quicker. An HVLP is used by professionals or by DIYers wanting a smoother finish. Either try eBay for a used gun or go to dipyourcar.com for a new gun $156 for a new gun.

4. Masking all depends on 2 things, the amount of surface area on the part not being dipped and the distance between the dipped piece and the non-dipped piece. - Something like the windows need to be masked because it's cost effective to mask. Dipping all the windows and peeling would require roughly double the product, hundreds of dollars. Take the nosecone for example. Such a large surface would require a little less than a quart of dip to make it thick enough to peel in one piece ($15). Or you could put $.50 worth of tape and tape n drape over the nosecone. - As for the badges and chrome. If the gap between the soon to be dipped piece and the not to be dipped piece is large enough, it will create a break in the dip allowing it to be peeled later and won't affect the dip. For example, the drivers side window trim. There is a 3-5mm gap on my car between the chrome and the body of the car. That gap will allow me to spray the chrome and peel it later while not peeling the dip on the body of the car. If the body of the car is touching the chrome that you don't want dipped, the tape must be touching the body of the car. In this scenario, the tape must be peeled as soon as the last coat is played and still wet. When the dip dries it creates a large sheet and all of it will lift if you try to peel. Peeling when wet will create a clean line if pulled slowly and away from the body. The badges have a large enough gap for them to be peeled later. Make sure to make a list of all the peel when wet areas of the car. I'll post my PWW areas in another post.

5. It's called overspray. lol The general rule is - If you can see it, dip will get in it. The gap around the side mirrors is pretty large. I masked around the mirror to close that gap. I never masked the door handles either. No problems so far.

6. Not very large. I use up about 2 cheap microfiber towels each dip. Then trash them. Always have a gallon of Naphtha on hand to clean the hopper and the gun. Shake about 2 ounces of naphtha around in the hopper then add another 16 ounces and spray it through the gun. This will clean the tubes in the gun. Then wipe out the hopper and pickup tube with the microfiber. Clean before each color change. So once after base coats, again after pearl coats and the once more after gloss coats. Constantly check the tip for any dip buildup. rub with your finger to remove. I would suggest a picnic mixed table to use for supplies and material.

7. Since your only interested in matte, I would buy a gallon of black dip along with the gun. Find a large piece of glass or mirror to spray. Practice your spray technique. Watch dipyourcar's youtube videos. A LOT of information. If you have any interest in doing gloss I'd buy a gallon of topcoat and do the same. Try to mimic what finish you want on your car on a large piece of glass.

8. Dust won't affect the results for a matte finish. Unless you plan on dipping in the dustbowl. lol It all depends on how big it is. For some reason ants are attracted to dip. Pesky sons of b%#$@es. I have a pair of tweezers and an exact knife on hand. I check around the car as soon as I'm done laying a coat. If there is a small fly in it and you get it out while the dip is wet you won't notice it was there. A leaf on the other hand may mess it up. Plasti dip is very forgivable making it a huge attractor of DIYers. If there is a small blemish in the dip, wait for it to dry. Put on a nitrile glove. Dip your finger in naphtha and smooth out the blemish. Wait for the naphtha to dry and respray that area trying to make it blend in to the surrounding area.

9. When you peel the masking, the dip touching it will lift since it has dried and created a bond. The gap between the pieces is where the dip will stop lifting. For example, the drivers side window trim. I masked off the window and left about a 1/2 inch of chrome trim showing between the tape and the gap between the chrome and body panel. When the tape is peeled, it will lift all the dip on that 1/2 of chrome and break at the gap leaving the body panel untouched.

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I just saw jam that you are in california. Plasti dip can't be shipped to california due to regulations. The only liquid wrap product I know of that can be sold in California is Raail's Xytek. Very advanced stuff.
 
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This is cool stuff. I'm getting itchy about wanting to change something about my Model S, this might be it. I'm totally new to it though. There's no downsides in terms of (mechanical) car washes? Presumable if someone felt like it, they could just run their fingernail into the dip and scratch some off? Or even remove a whole panel, I guess?! I'm not sure I could handle not doing inside the doors though, that would probably bug me.
 
This is cool stuff. I'm getting itchy about wanting to change something about my Model S, this might be it. I'm totally new to it though. There's no downsides in terms of (mechanical) car washes? Presumable if someone felt like it, they could just run their fingernail into the dip and scratch some off? Or even remove a whole panel, I guess?! I'm not sure I could handle not doing inside the doors though, that would probably bug me.

Making your badges red would be a great start. Grey and red. :love: I never take my car through a mechanical car wash. I always use touchless. If properly done, the pressure from the water jets should not affect the dip. The only way for it to peel is to rub back from the edges lifting it where the dip begins. Just like your badges or spoiler. Anybody could just come along and remove them. A lot of people that dip their car dark colors do the jambs in black. It isn't a large contrast and its a bit easier.
 
Hi - I am pretty intrigued about dipping my car. Really like the matte look.
sorry about all the questions - really fascinated by dipping:

1. How soon after you get a new Tesla can you dip it?
2. Can I do it outside? How much gets on everything around you?
3. What is a good sprayer to use?
4. I am a still a little confused on the masking, where you say you don't have to worry to much about the chrome and lettering - why not, doesn't it stick to the rest that is attached to the car?
5. Do you need to worry about small "plastic dust" getting into things - like the mechanics for the side mirrors or some other motor in the car?
6. How big of a mess does it make?
7. What kind of practice do I need to do before I try it?
8. What happens if something touches the dip while you are spraying it (dust, leaf, your hand)??
9. What happens when you peel up the masking, does it pull the dip or make a rough edge??

Thanks!!
Not sure if you're referring to my car, but my car is actually a Satin finish, not matte. It's in between matte and glossy.
 
Hi - I had a few more questions. I am probably going to try and dip my Tesla. I am really afraid of the masking part of it.

How did you mask around the Panoramic roof where the rubber seal is?
How did you mask the side mirrors, specifically the part with the mirror
What else should I know?

Thanks!
 
Hi - I had a few more questions. I am probably going to try and dip my Tesla. I am really afraid of the masking part of it.

How did you mask around the Panoramic roof where the rubber seal is?
How did you mask the side mirrors, specifically the part with the mirror
What else should I know?

Thanks!
I sprayed the side mirrors so I didn't mask them. Only the chrome part was masked if I remember correctly. Also we just masked the top of the roof as any other part.

Check out my dip video, you can see what's taped off:
Spectacular Tesla Model S Abyss Midnight Flip (DYC Tribute/Parody) - YouTube
 
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