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Discussion in 'Model S: Battery & Charging' started by Great Dane, Apr 6, 2015.
Found this at a campsite
love to know what type of plug this is.
Looks to be this, very common at RV sites:
Unfortunately there is no official adapter, but people have tried unofficial solution (keep in mind it is a 120V).
Standard TT30, it does up to 30A at 120V and is pretty common in many RV parks (especially older ones)
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DOH! beat me to it!
Sorry Just found out what it was
NEMA TT–30 is a 30 A, 125 V outlet
I cant believe it is only 125 v
because the car can only charge 12 amps at 125 volt
enough for ac ? over night .
Shouldn't the car do 16A at 120V? (TESLA does have an adapter for 120v 20A outlets, 80% of which would be 16A, not 12A) Others here may know if there's a way to convince the car to go even higher (If you have 30A available, you might as well do 24A)
As for power, yeah, it kinda sucks, but you know what they say, any power is better than no power...
Thank You All for the quick replies, this is truly an awesome car with awesome support people!
I am going with this
NEMA 14-50R to TT-30P RV Plug Adapter
Great place for future adapters
Keep in mind you'll be limited to either 20A or 24A. Since it's only going to be 120VAC, you'll get 6-8mph charge. It's better than [email protected], though!
If you had access to two TT-30 outlets, you could use a combiner and get [email protected] You just have to make sure they are on different legs.
With this adapter, NEMA 14-50R to TT-30P Plug Adapter, you can charge at 120 Volts and 24 Amps (20 Amps on older Model S's). The standard RV TT-30 to 14-50 adapter for RV's will not work for a Tesla; you get nothing.
There is a whole set of adapters, Adapters For Tesla Model S; just be careful that you know what you are doing...
This video gives some intro to RV park power sockets:
Just be careful!
The standard TT-30P to 14-50R adapter made for an RV will not work with a Tesla!!! You need to get one made for a Tesla, and that will not work for an RV...
Campsites are the last place you want to use one of those devices because of the higher chance of failure. Those combine devices can end up being the return path for entire pedestals. See my FAQ (signature) for more information.
Because the UMC wants 240V across both legs of the NEMA 14-50. The 'dog bone' adapter just puts 120V on one half of the 14-50 with one hot leg giving potential over neutral and the other leg is not energized at all.
Hope OP reads your post.
Close... they bridge both hot pins on the 14-50 to the single hot on the TT-30. The Tesla sees 0V because there's no potential difference between them.
Not always... It is inconsistent. Some dog bones are like the one in the picture.
Some more talk of RV weirdness here:
Using electrical adapters for your RV
The situation is fairly 'sucky'. They sell all these adapters that you can plug together and easily overload the circuit. You can buy a NEMA5-15 to TT-30 adapter and then a TT-30 to NEMA14-50 adapter and plug a whole 100amp RV worth of stuff into a 15amp circuit. They say things like "make sure not to turn on your air-conditioner unless you know what you are doing." I think some people treat this as "turn things on until the circuit breaker trips" to know how much current you can get away with. It is no wonder that many sockets in RV parks are in sad condition.
50 Amp Wiring Modification
RVers sometimes create wacky cables trying to extract all the power they can from those pedestals:
Thanks TEG for the video
yes I am reading all the posts.
The return path for the entire pedestal? If the pedestal only has 120VAC going to it, how is that a problem? If the pedestal has a 14-50R on it, the OP probably wouldn't be playing with the TT30, now would they?
All of the ones I've seen that have a TT30 and a 5-15 duplex, only have a single 30A single pole breaker going to them.
If you use two different pedestals that are on opposite legs with one of those combiners, you can end up with a situation where the combiner becomes a parallel return path for the neutral conductor on one of the pedestals; that, or with a neutral failure in one of the pedestals you'll end up with the normally-grounded guts of the combiner floating at 120V. I detailed the scenario previously here.
Bottom line: the combiners are dangerous. Do it the right way.