What to know when buying a salvage Tesla?

[CrazyCarl]

Hey guys!

I've bought 2 cars from copart in the past and rebuilt them but they were ICE's. Now I'm very interested in trying to rebuild a tesla

But before I go and spend the money on a copart tesla, I had some questions for those of you that have done it!
I've been learning by reading several of the builds here on the form, especially the ones by desoukya.

So basically before I bid on it, what are the things you guys would look out for before bidding?

If the radiator/coolant system has been damaged (front end crash), other than repair/bleeding the system what is there on the computer side that needs done?

Also if Tesla ends up disabling the SuperCharging/AP how much do the guys who know how to gain root access to turn it back on charge for their services?

Thanks much!

 

[HankLloydRight]

Have you seen all of Rich Rebuilds videos on YouTube? That’s the best place to start.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Have you seen all of Rich Rebuilds videos on YouTube? That’s the best place to start.

I have seen his channel, so much good stuff on there. But before I bid on Monday, I had a few specific questions

#1 if SuperCharging/AP are turned off, or if they get disabled later how much does someone with the skills to turn them back on charge? (also is there a way for me to tell when I inspect it in the lot?)

#2 if the car ends up having a damaged radiator, can I just repair and bleed system, or is there more computer work?

#3 I read that you can take a salvaged tesla to a tesla service center and get updates that way, does anyone know if they require that Expensive inspection for updates? I tried calling a service center and I was just put on hold for 30 mins so I gave up on that route of asking

#4 Co-part lists the vehicle as "runs and drives", but from my research (if I'm not mistaken) when the cars airbags are deployed the pyrofuse is blown, and then the Contactors won't close. And this car has 4 deployed airbags

Sorry if these are very basic questions, I'm just trying to get things figured out before I go inspect/bid

Thanks again guys

 

[HankLloydRight]

I wish I could help, but I can't answer any of those questions, except that I think Tesla won't touch (or update) a salvaged car until it's gone through their inspection and passed, and you paid their fee (I think it's $1500).

 

[trustjp1]

I have just almost completed this exact scenario. I bought a P85plus from copart back in January which the owner took out a curb or rock or something that took out the front radiator, drivers side suspension and rear suspension but zero frame and or body damage. Really weird wreck and would love to know what she really hit. I bought it out of the atlanta copart for 20k not including fee's . I sourced basically all parts from ebay and with extras my total build price was $7111. The on,y thing the car needed that was out of my scope was to have the AC system de-charged and then re-charged after the pass side radiator was replaced. Luckily the wheel did not bash the ac/dc/dc convertor or i think i would need a programming issue there but not positive. The car needed zero programming if you stick with cars that dont have any true electrical brain components needing to be replaced. I think thats where the mcu verifies.

 

[trustjp1]

Some pictures:

 

[CrazyCarl]

Some pictures:

Okay now that's epic nice job man!

I inspected the car today, and I won it at auction.
So soon when I get it in my shop I'll start a build thread and document my experience with this project!

 

[rooter]

Well it's too late now Crazy, but one important thing to check is wheelbase. Nobody knows about this, but make a very accurate measurement (I use a metric tape measure) to check front-center wheel to back-center wheel, on both sides.

If they're not exactly what a non-wrecked Tesla is, you know some work will be involved. In my case the frame rail was bent up and out by 2". Could not be pulled back in so from my parts car I disconnected the frame rail at the join, and cut out the shock tower etc at the firewall, and had that bolted/welded in. Pavel (Minnesota) did a beautiful job and the car drives like it's on rails.

Do your work as if you plan to get the car certified someday. You may want to for resale value. Cert is no good for anything but getting the car serviced and that could be of value to a future buyer. This means rebuilding the car to look like the accident never happened, with all measurements precise, particularly the front-end geometry.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Well it's too late now Crazy, but one important thing to check is wheelbase. Nobody knows about this, but make a very accurate measurement (I use a metric tape measure) to check front-center wheel to back-center wheel, on both sides.

If they're not exactly what a non-wrecked Tesla is, you know some work will be involved. In my case the frame rail was bent up and out by 2". Could not be pulled back in so from my parts car I disconnected the frame rail at the join, and cut out the shock tower etc at the firewall, and had that bolted/welded in. Pavel (Minnesota) did a beautiful job and the car drives like it's on rails.

Do your work as if you plan to get the car certified someday. You may want to for resale value. Cert is no good for anything but getting the car serviced and that could be of value to a future buyer. This means rebuilding the car to look like the accident never happened, with all measurements precise, particularly the front-end geometry.

Okay cool Thanks so much for the Advice!
I just picked up the car and it turns on shows charging stations when I put in navigation, battery says -96%, and the code says :
"power very low, car may not wake up. Charge immediately to remedy"

I open the charging port had it shows a blue light, so should I stop on my way home and try to plug it in to a supercharger station while it's on the trailer? I saw someone else who bought from copart did this, but the car still has some other guys name in the computer so could I get in trouble? I've ordered a charger but it won't be here for a week

 

[demundus]

Okay cool Thanks so much for the Advice!
I just picked up the car and it turns on shows charging stations when I put in navigation, battery says -96%, and the code says :
"power very low, car may not wake up. Charge immediately to remedy"

I open the charging port had it shows a blue light, so should I stop on my way home and try to plug it in to a supercharger station while it's on the trailer? I saw someone else who bought from copart did this, but the car still has some other guys name in the computer so could I get in trouble? I've ordered a charger but it won't be here for a week

You wont get in trouble, but i'd be cautious as you have no idea whats damaged. You could blow something (or yourself) up. Be practical. Others here will tell you to cut off your nose to spite your face, due to their feelings about how Tesla handles salvages, and plug it in. I personally would not do that, especially at a supercharger, but at home in a controlled environment.

 

[CrazyCarl]

You wont get in trouble, but i'd be cautious as you have no idea whats damaged. You could blow something (or yourself) up. Be practical. Others here will tell you to cut off your nose to spite your face, due to their feelings about how Tesla handles salvages, and plug it in. I personally would not do that, especially at a supercharger, but at home in a controlled environment.

OK thanks, that make sense! But do you think it will last a whole week without Draining to 0? I heard that if you leave it unplugged in your garage and it drains completely dead you have to have Tesla service come to turn it back on. And they will not do that for me because this car has not been changed in to my name on their system

 

[demundus]

OK thanks, that make sense! But do you think it will last a whole week without Draining to 0? I heard that if you leave it unplugged in your garage and it drains completely dead you have to have Tesla service come to turn it back on. And they will not do that for me because this car has not been changed in to my name on their system

You dont NEED a tesla wall charger per-se. Are you saying you dont even have the mobile charger? You might be able to buy one on-demand at a local tesla service center. You dont NEED the wall one to function, but you do need at least the mobile one

 

[CrazyCarl]

You dont NEED a tesla wall charger per-se. Are you saying you dont even have the mobile charger? You might be able to buy one on-demand at a local tesla service center. You dont NEED the wall one to function, but you do need at least the mobile one

I guess I don't know the difference between a wall charger and mobile charger? I'm assuming a wall charger is higher charge rate? This is the charger I ordered this morning: NEW Tesla Model S/X/3 UMC Gen 2 Mobile Connector Charger | eBay

But unfortunately it won't be here for a week, and I am 3 hours from the closest service center

 

[Lukez]

I guess I don't know the difference between a wall charger and mobile charger? I'm assuming a wall charger is higher charge rate? This is the charger I ordered this morning: NEW Tesla Model S/X/3 UMC Gen 2 Mobile Connector Charger | eBay

But unfortunately it won't be here for a week, and I am 3 hours from the closest service center

Are you sure that charger isn't in the car anywhere? Did you check the closed floor compartment in the trunk? In the frunk?
You need that charger to charge, you are correct.
If you don't have it and need to wait for a week for it I would pull the firefighter disconnect to prevent the battery from draining.

 

[CrazyCarl]

Are you sure that charger isn't in the car anywhere? Did you check the closed floor compartment in the trunk? In the frunk?
You need that charger to charge, you are correct.
If you don't have it and need to wait for a week for it I would pull the firefighter disconnect to prevent the battery from draining.

Thank you for your reply, I actually didn't look in the back, as soon as I get home I will check. It wasn't in the front though. I never even thought about the 1st responder Loop, if I unplug that is it safe and will it come back on all normal again?

Also I'm not sure how I'm going to get it off the uhaul trailer without dragging it since the wheels are locked up. Any ideas?

Thanks again

 

[CrazyCarl]

Okay so I just got home, and this is everything that was in the trunk, I dont really know anything about the charging cables but it looks like I'm missing something

 

[Seven7]

Okay so I just got home, and this is everything that was in the trunk, I dont really know anything about the charging cables but it looks like I'm missing something

The charger should be in that black bag

 

[CrazyCarl]

The charger should be in that black bag

Yeah unfortunately it's just those two peices and a tow adapter. I dont know who would've had them separated but oh well. Does anyone know if they sell just the cable portion? It appears I have the part that plugs into the car and the part that just goes in a wall socket

 

[demundus]

you do not. it doesnt really work that way. The part that plugs into the car is for Level 2 charger adapters, like at a hotel or a restaurant. The wall one is for 2A wall power from a basic outlet (and is the male end of the mobile charger used to plug into the wall). A literal joke amount of power for that car, it isnt even worth mentioning right now. The mobile charger you orders is what you need, but you need to find a more powerful endpoint for the car. Most people install Nema standard 14-50 Adapter, then plug the charger into that. Other people wire a wall mount charger directly to the wiring that you'd use to install said adapter. Either way, you have some time till your charger arrives to make sure you have the right plug for it.

 

[CrazyCarl]

you do not. it doesnt really work that way. The part that plugs into the car is for Level 2 charger adapters, like at a hotel or a restaurant. The wall one is for 2A wall power from a basic outlet (and is the male end of the mobile charger used to plug into the wall). A literal joke amount of power for that car, it isnt even worth mentioning right now. The mobile charger you orders is what you need, but you need to find a more powerful endpoint for the car. Most people install Nema standard 14-50 Adapter, then plug the charger into that. Other people wire a wall mount charger directly to the wiring that you'd use to install said adapter. Either way, you have some time till your charger arrives to make sure you have the right plug for it.

Okay thanks! In the shop I'll be using I have access to a 240v cord that we plug all the welders into, that should work right?

I figured out "tow mode" in the settings and managed to get it off the trailer, while looking for that setting the computer said "shutting off" where it showed all the other codes but it didnt while I was in there. Then I unloaded it and unplugged the HV first responder loop like Lukez suggested. So I really hope it will be good until I get the charger