What tread depth do you replace your tires at? (and 2 or 4 at a time)?

[n1h1]

I just got a service invoice with a tread depth of 4 on the fronts and 6 on the rears. I was kind of surprised it says replacement recommended: "no". What tread depth do you guys get them replaced? I am at only 10k miles so I guess I will be down to 3 in another 1K miles. I guess at 3 hydroplaning risks are much higher.

Also out of curiosity, any of you end up replacing these 2 at a time with the different staggering wear patterns? It feels weird not to replace all 4 but just wondering if any of you actually do that.

 

[DCGOO]

If you are down to 4/32 at only 10,000 miles, you are seriously in need of an alignment. At 30,000 miles, I was at 6/32 all around. But to answer your question, 2/32 is the lower limit (that is where the tread wear indicator limit is reached). If you are replacing for wear, 2 at a time is fine. No need to replace all four, unless they are all worn.

What is your energy utilization in the summer? That is a good way to verify your wheel alignment. You should get between 270 to 330 wh/mile (winter will be much higher)

Properly aligned and inflated, you should be able to get 40,000+/- from the standard 20 inch wheels and OEM tires. The 22 inch wheels are likely to not last that long. I was on track to exceed 40,000 by quite a bit, until I hit a brick in my driveway destroying one of the rears at roughly 34,000. I replaced both rears.

Many folks here will wildly disagree with my 40,000 expectation. All I can do is report my personal experience.

 

[Tam]

...replacement recommended: "no"....

The tires are bald at 2/32 inches or 1.6 mm when the tread touching the penny's Lincoln's hair. I would replace before reaching that.

...10k miles...

I guess it depends on your driving style.

 

[mxnym]

No need to replace all four, unless they are all worn.

Personally, I agree with this assessment, but my understanding is that he service center will not. If I remember correctly, from reading in another thread or peeking at a service manual, the service center can replace only the fronts but is supposed to replace all 4 any time replacing the rears (and conveniently, the rears wear out faster). The (suspect) explanation is that "it's a safety requirement because people are better at dealing with oversteer than understeer."

Many folks here will wildly disagree with my 40,000 expectation. All I can do is report my personal experience.

In my personal experience, in a 2017 MX 100D with 20 inch OEM wheels averaging 341 Wh/mi over the first 45.5k miles including Indiana winters (with OEM winter tires) and with multiple alignments performed during that time (prior to MCU replacement resetting my counter), both the OEM A/S tires and the OEM winter tires were shot (to the point of missing inner tread and belt separation on A/S rear tires and seeing space above Lincoln's head on the OEM winter tires) by the time I reached 50,000 miles (so less than 25,000 miles per set with driving so mild that EPA estimated efficiency was exceeded). Unfortunately, I think it comes down to luck of the draw on the fixed camber your vehicle comes with.

 

[n1h1]

If you are down to 4/32 at only 10,000 miles, you are seriously in need of an alignment. At 30,000 miles, I was at 6/32 all around. But to answer your question, 2/32 is the lower limit (that is where the tread wear indicator limit is reached). If you are replacing for wear, 2 at a time is fine. No need to replace all four, unless they are all worn.

What is your energy utilization in the summer? That is a good way to verify your wheel alignment. You should get between 270 to 330 wh/mile (winter will be much higher)

Thanks for the info. I am under 270 atm with warmer weather. With winter I can get into the 400s if its anywhere near or below zero. Wish I had the plaid & Y's heat pump Although no complaints. I run the same tires year round. I felt like I had decent traction in the snow for two winters so far (well what you would expect with all seasons)

Properly aligned and inflated, you should be able to get 40,000+/- from the standard 20 inch wheels and OEM tires. The 22 inch wheels are likely to not last that long. I was on track to exceed 40,000 by quite a bit, until I hit a brick in my driveway destroying one of the rears at roughly 34,000. I replaced both rears.

Many folks here will wildly disagree with my 40,000 expectation. All I can do is report my personal experience.

Interesting I'm on 20s. So I noticed a couple things. The car is reporting I am overinflated by 5 psi, I guess from thermal expansion after winter where I always have to put air in them to hit spec. I will drain these to spec.

I am also not sure if I am measuring wrong, but I am seeing something more like 5-6 on the fronts, so not sure how they got the 4. I should double-check the inner side though, maybe I have inner wear on the fronts.

 

[n1h1]

The tires are bald at 2/32 inches or 1.6 mm when the tread touching the penny's Lincoln's hair. I would replace before reaching that.


I guess it depends on your driving style.

I smoke them every day! (Kidding) I don't drive in chill (hate chill), but I also drive fairly normal. Occasionally punch it, although that was mostly when the car was brand new. The roads in my area have been pretty beaten up the last two winters.

 

[Solarman004]

I just got a service invoice with a tread depth of 4 on the fronts and 6 on the rears. I was kind of surprised it says replacement recommended: "no". What tread depth do you guys get them replaced? I am at only 10k miles so I guess I will be down to 3 in another 1K miles. I guess at 3 hydroplaning risks are much higher.

Also out of curiosity, any of you end up replacing these 2 at a time with the different staggering wear patterns? It feels weird not to replace all 4 but just wondering if any of you actually do that.

I replace them as soon as they hit 3/32. One caveat though. I have a separate set of snow tires. I would never use all-seasons in Colorado snow with just 3/32" of tread. If I were using one set year round, I would be looking at 4/32 for swap out.
I agree with the alignment recommendations. I had an alignment done at 40 k miles because of uneven wear inside to outside of the tread, and front to back tires. At 68 k miles now and the tread wear is dead even across all 4 tires.

 

[mxnym]

I replace them as soon as they hit 3/32. One caveat though. I have a separate set of snow tires. I would never use all-seasons in Colorado snow with just 3/32" of tread. If I were using one set year round, I would be looking at 4/32 for swap out.
I agree with the alignment recommendations. I had an alignment done at 40 k miles because of uneven wear inside to outside of the tread, and front to back tires. At 68 k miles now and the tread wear is dead even across all 4 tires.

What tread depth do you let your winter tires go to before replacing them? I thought my winters looked great and didn't measure them, found out the hard way that they didn't have enough, but can't seem to find so much advice on exactly when they should be changed.

 

[n1h1]

I am also not sure if I am measuring wrong, but I am seeing something more like 5-6 on the fronts, so not sure how they got the 4. I should double-check the inner side though, maybe I have inner wear on the fronts.

Ah ha I just noticed they are reporting in mm and I am measuring in 32nds

 

[Solarman004]

What tread depth do you let your winter tires go to before replacing them? I thought my winters looked great and didn't measure them, found out the hard way that they didn't have enough, but can't seem to find so much advice on exactly when they should be changed.

That's a good question. After 4 seasons with the Blizzaks, they still have excellent tread. It helps that they are symmetric 19" wheels so I rotate the winter tires every season.
I will likely not let them get below 5/32" just to be safe.

 

[Tam]

...It feels weird not to replace all 4 but just wondering if any of you actually do that.

I normally rotate all 4 tires so they can wear down pretty much at the same rate and change all 4 at a time. However, in the X, the rear tires don't fit in front so I am forced to change a pair at a time and not 4.

 

[pereiks]

you should be able to get 40,000+/-

I just replaced front pair at 27k miles... Rear still have lots of life left.

 

[Richbot]

I'd expect the Raven cars to use up fronts faster with the front motor doing so much more of the everyday work, plus steering the car, and that's exactly what I'm seeing on mine. They're ostensibly at 6/32" across the tread according to the SC, but the inside shoulder is getting close. Might make it through this coming winter but after next summer they'll be toast for sure. The rears look great in comparison after almost 9000 miles. I'm considering just shitcanning the 20's for a set of 19's once one pair gets too low. Not rotating is stupid. 20's on a car we basically use as a minivan, also stupid

 

[superdry]

I just replaced front pair at 27k miles... Rear still have lots of life left.

I'd expect the Raven cars to use up fronts faster with the front motor doing so much more of the everyday work, plus steering the car, and that's exactly what I'm seeing on mine.

On my 2020 Raven with 20" wheels, the fronts were down to 2 (basically, almost bald) evenly across the tread, after 26k miles. The rears had plenty of tread (not sure of the measurement), but had to be replaced because the inside of each tire was worn at the edge uniformly, such that the steel belts were sticking out and one of them had developed a slow leak. Discount Tire said it was due to bad alignment, but the Tesla SC said it was a result of me keeping the suspension at Low all the time. They said that despite Tesla adding the "Always Low" suspension setting, it's not a good idea as it affects the camber, as the alignment is done assuming the Normal suspension setting. I had it set Low to prevent the shutter problem, and not for drag efficiency. I've developed the shutter problem anyway, so it's time to get those parts replaced with the newly-engineered ones that provide the permanent fix. Once that is done, I don't think I'd have any reason to run other than in Normal suspension except for unusual circumstances.

 

[gnuarm]

I never let my tires get past 0/32 inch tread depth. Just had a blow out! Now I need new tires. Is 38,000 typical for the factory 20" tires? The inside tread was worn much more than the outside. That's why I didn't know they were about to blow. Rear tires. Not sure about the fronts.

The question now is what to replace them with.

 

[mxnym]

I never let my tires get past 0/32 inch tread depth. Just had a blow out! Now I need new tires. Is 38,000 typical for the factory 20" tires? The inside tread was worn much more than the outside. That's why I didn't know they were about to blow. Rear tires. Not sure about the fronts.

The question now is what to replace them with.

IMO, 38,00 miles is high for factory tires, even on the 20" rims.

Here's one option:
Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06

Or, you might prefer to shop for a less expensive brand of tire.

 

[Krazaak]

I replace my tires at 4/32, which is when I can start to feel a significant difference in handling in the rain. I get about 26k miles on the fronts and about 13k miles on the rears. I alternate replacing the rears only and all four. I've switched to the DWS 06 linked above, they provide a 50k treadwear warranty on the fronts and 25k on the rears (due to staggered fitment), so I get a substantial pro-rated discount at replacement time.

 

[gnuarm]

I replace my tires at 4/32, which is when I can start to feel a significant difference in handling in the rain. I get about 26k miles on the fronts and about 13k miles on the rears. I alternate replacing the rears only and all four. I've switched to the DWS 06 linked above, they provide a 50k treadwear warranty on the fronts and 25k on the rears (due to staggered fitment), so I get a substantial pro-rated discount at replacement time.

That's pretty crazy! Why do the rear tires wear out so much faster??? I'm used to getting 50,000 miles from tires. I'm not going to buy a 13k tire even if the warranty is much longer. That's a huge waste of resources and creates a big disposal problem.

I've always liked Michelin, but don't see much about them for the model X. Am I just not looking hard enough? Do any tires give 50,000 if you keep your foot out of the gas pedal?

 

[mxnym]

That's pretty crazy! Why do the rear tires wear out so much faster??? I'm used to getting 50,000 miles from tires. I'm not going to buy a 13k tire even if the warranty is much longer. That's a huge waste of resources and creates a big disposal problem.

I've always liked Michelin, but don't see much about them for the model X. Am I just not looking hard enough? Do any tires give 50,000 if you keep your foot out of the gas pedal?

Regarding Michelin:

WARNING against Michelin Cross Climate+ Tires

I recently needed to replace the rear tires on our X after getting about 20k miles on the Continental DWS06. I decided to go with the Michelin Cross Climate+ SUV as they appear to rate very well for snow as an all-season tire. I run the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3 on the front. What’s happened...

teslamotorsclub.com

Michelin Crossclimate SUV

I’m looking for new 20” tires and wonder if anyone has used these on their X? Good? Bad? Efficiency?

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Michelin Cross Climate for Model X?

Like a lot of folks, I am less than pleased with the OEM Continental tires on the Model X. I will need new tires by the end of the summer and am thinking about Michelin Cross Climate tires. These would be for 3 season use since I have dedicated snow tires for winter. I believe this is a...

teslamotorsclub.com

Note that if I wanted Michelin, I would probably get those tires in spite of the first thread I linked because they show up as a supported tire in the Tire Rack configurator. If they are HP/UHP tires, they likely aren't 50k+mile tires. Sounds like maybe you want Touring/Grand Touring tires. Searching Tire Rack by vehicle, you won't see such tires, but that doesn't mean they don't exist, only that Tire Rack's configurator won't look at them (this could be due to top speed, vehicle type, weight calculations, or something else I haven't thought of and isn't necessarily a problem). You would need to search by size and validate the tire ratings yourself (or have a trusted tire shop do the same for you). Even with a tire rated for 50k+miles, you might not see them if you've had inner treadwear, as the camber is not adjustable from the factory. You could install aftermarket rear camber links to make this adjustable and get more tire life, but the cost of a good reliable link would likely exceed the savings in tire life.

Show Me Your Inner Tire Wear Photos

Many of us with a Model S or X have had horrible inner tire wear issues. When I've brought this up to Tesla on several occasions they simple say that "it's normal" and that the vehicle is "within spec". In reality they only say that because there is no way to adjust the rear camber. Only the...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Richbot]

I think the trick with the tire choice compromise on these cars is the V speed rating. If you're not going to at 149mph for 10 minutes or whatever the design criteria is, the H rated tires out there are probably a better compromise. Keeping a tire alive in a car this heavy going that fast, while also making it a four-season tire, costs you something elsewhere. I'd imagine in carcass stiffness (which costs you NVH) and compounding (wear).