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What type of plug is this? Best Tesla UMC adapter solution?

Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
That took me on a little voyage of Google discovery, and I found that yes, they seem to be two different names for the same thing. Here are some examples of equipment where they list it with both names:

This one is basically that same kind of adapter cord you have, but more expensive:
AC WORKS 1.5 ft. 50 Amp 125/250-Volt SS2-50P/CS6365 Locking Plug to 14-50R RV/Range/EV/Generator Adapter Cord-SS21450-018 - The Home Depot

And here is one that's just a plug end if you are building your own cables.
Conntek 60729 NEMA SS2-50P / CS6365 Replacement Plug
 
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vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
That took me on a little voyage of Google discovery, and I found that yes, they seem to be two different names for the same thing. Here are some examples of equipment where they list it with both names:

This one is basically that same kind of adapter cord you have, but more expensive:
AC WORKS 1.5 ft. 50 Amp 125/250-Volt SS2-50P/CS6365 Locking Plug to 14-50R RV/Range/EV/Generator Adapter Cord-SS21450-018 - The Home Depot

And here is one that's just a plug end if you are building your own cables.
Conntek 60729 NEMA SS2-50P / CS6365 Replacement Plug

Thanks. So for about the same price as Conntek I'll get the parkworld adapter above. Sold! Thanks Rocky. Hopefully the solar generator is I posted in OP is still working (the chargepoint display is working, but says disabled)

Also the UMC should protect the car from any surge type issues right? If i was using their j1772 I wouldn't be as worried, but since I'm bypassing this with the parkworld adapter.
 
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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
Also the UMC should protect the car from any surge type issues right? If i was using their j1772 I wouldn't be as worried, but since I'm bypassing this with the parkworld adapter.
Yes, that's what the few hundred dollars of equipment in an EVSE is for (whether it's J1772 or Tesla UMC). It will just stop charging if there are surges or voltage fluctuations or whatever. Those are the safety functions.

Remember what I mentioned earlier. The Tesla UMC is exactly the same thing as a J1772. The UMC even uses the exact same J1772 signaling protocol. So it is the same set of equipment (electronically) as if you were able to use the J1772 handle that's on there. Neither is any better/worse/safer/less safe. So I would not use the word "bypassing". You are just using an alternative version of all the same checks and safety systems.
 
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vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Yes, that's what the few hundred dollars of equipment in an EVSE is for (whether it's J1772 or Tesla UMC). It will just stop charging if there are surges or voltage fluctuations or whatever. Those are the safety functions.

Remember what I mentioned earlier. The Tesla UMC is exactly the same thing as a J1772. The UMC even uses the exact same J1772 signaling protocol. So it is the same set of equipment (electronically) as if you were able to use the J1772 handle that's on there. Neither is any better/worse/safer/less safe. So I would not use the word "bypassing". You are just using an alternative version of all the same checks and safety systems.

fair enough I guess I like the "double redundancy" of the j1772+UMC.

last question that I posted in this thread Charged with CA plug finally as well. can I safely cut the bottom pin off the 14-30 adapter to make it more universal?

14-30_individual_1104937-00-B_0.png
 
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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
fair enough I guess I like the "double redundancy" of the j1772+UMC.
That's not a thing! You can't do that. There can only be one "brain" that generates the signaling and communicates to handshake with the car to determine the proper amount of amps to be offered, and then receive the car's answer of how many it wants, and then connect the relays, etc. You can't run this through both a J1772 and a UMC.

And yes, I already answered the cutting off the pin thing in the other thread. It's fine.
 
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brkaus

Well-Known Member
Jul 8, 2014
9,104
7,865
Austin, TX
last question that I posted in this thread Charged with CA plug finally as well. can I safely cut the bottom pin off the 14-30 adapter to make it more universal?
Yes. Some folks here don’t like the idea of a modified plug, but it does give you a 30a (24a actual) semi-universal plug.

might want to look at the pin out for the outlet and give it a test with a multimeter and see if it is working at providing expected voltages. (be safe, if your not sure how, don’t).
 
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vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Yes. Some folks here don’t like the idea of a modified plug, but it does give you a 30a (24a actual) semi-universal plug.

might want to look at the pin out for the outlet and give it a test with a multimeter and see if it is working at providing expected voltages. (be safe, if your not sure how, don’t).

Yeah I'd rather not unless it's one of those touch free multimeter. This is why I wanted to ask here 1st about safety and rely on the Tesla UMC (or ideally the chargepoint j1772 for safety). But I'm okay with the j1772 bypass solution given all the info I've gathered here.

Will put my pliers to work this PM and break off the bottom!
 
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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
So I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...sin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tmc064-20

but it fits wouldn't lock into place. I wonder if the white plastic some of the white plastic part needs to be sawed out to twist lock like the OP
Nothing should need to be cut out. Make sure you're plugging into the right part. That picture you reposted from the original is the end of a cable that has metal prongs in it. You wouldn't be able to plug into that. And of course the pigtail adapter piece you ordered there is also the male end with prongs, so of course those two can't plug together. You need to plug it into the other outlet on the body of that device--the one with the black plastic face that has the open slots on it with the metal spike sticking out of the middle. That is the "female" end that you should be able to plug into and lock.
 
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vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Nothing should need to be cut out. Make sure you're plugging into the right part. That picture you reposted from the original is the end of a cable that has metal prongs in it. You wouldn't be able to plug into that. And of course the pigtail adapter piece you ordered there is also the male end with prongs, so of course those two can't plug together. You need to plug it into the other outlet on the body of that device--the one with the black plastic face that has the open slots on it with the metal spike sticking out of the middle. That is the "female" end that you should be able to plug into and lock.

Definitely doing the male/female part right :) and plugging into the black plastic face that has the open slots on it

i think the the metal spike sticking out too far for the parkworld adapter and I can't go in all the way to latch.

one of the amazon reviews mentioned the whole in the center wasn't there/ deep enough a


https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...ef=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B079JYS4GT
 
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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
Definitely doing the male/female part right :) and plugging into the black plastic face that has the open slots on it

i think the the metal spike sticking out too far for the parkworld adapter.

one of the amazon reviews mentioned the whole in the center wasn't there/ deep enough
Oh, well that's funny. The picture on the listing shows it having a hole, but the review says the hole was missing on his, and he had to drill it out. Cheap crap sometimes that's not made right from these small suppliers who sell on Amazon. I ordered a laptop power cord from a cheap Amazon supplier like that, and it showed that it was a three pin grounded plug, but what I got was just a two prong, non-grounded one. Yeah, might need to drill yours out too.

I wonder if the one I recommended from EVSEAdapters would have had that issue. :rolleyes:
 

vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Oh, well that's funny. The picture on the listing shows it having a hole, but the review says the hole was missing on his, and he had to drill it out. Cheap crap sometimes that's not made right from these small suppliers who sell on Amazon. I ordered a laptop power cord from a cheap Amazon supplier like that, and it showed that it was a three pin grounded plug, but what I got was just a two prong, non-grounded one. Yeah, might need to drill yours out too.

I wonder if the one I recommended from EVSEAdapters would have had that issue. :rolleyes:

:) the pic looks exactly the same. I wonder if EVSEAdapters makes em here? I wanted the amazon ez return in case it didn't work, also they had a 10-30 adapter
 
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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
@Rocky_H I also want to check if I should drill out the white plastic part near locking L
Shouldn't need to, but I'm not there. It is made to be the right kind of plug for that. That plastic part is supposed to be there to make it stop at the right distance so that the pins are in the slots by the right amount so that you can then rotate it to lock. If you drill that out, it may go in too far, which makes it hang up on edges of things inside the outlet and it doesn't want to rotate, and you have to fiddle with backing it partway out, etc. etc. and then it doesn't work as well. It's supposed to be usable as it is. But if part of it is not made right, then you may have to McGuyver it a little to get it to fit smoothly. (Like if the middle hole is missing, need to drill it, or if the hole is a little too small, may need to Dremmel to enlarge it a bit) Could you add a picture of the face of the piece you actually bought? We haven't seen that to see if it does seem like the right thing.
 

vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Shouldn't need to, but I'm not there. It is made to be the right kind of plug for that. That plastic part is supposed to be there to make it stop at the right distance so that the pins are in the slots by the right amount so that you can then rotate it to lock. If you drill that out, it may go in too far, which makes it hang up on edges of things inside the outlet and it doesn't want to rotate, and you have to fiddle with backing it partway out, etc. etc. and then it doesn't work as well. It's supposed to be usable as it is. But if part of it is not made right, then you may have to McGuyver it a little to get it to fit smoothly. (Like if the middle hole is missing, need to drill it, or if the hole is a little too small, may need to Dremmel to enlarge it a bit) Could you add a picture of the face of the piece you actually bought? We haven't seen that to see if it does seem like the right thing.

Sure, what I bought:
 

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Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
8,825
11,536
Boise, ID
Ah--I think I see something that you may be overlooking that could be causing you some trouble. See how on the black-faced receptacle it has two curved in parts around the outer ring on opposite sides? Your plug has two metal indentation parts that would need to line up with those to fit in. That might be part of the trouble trying to plug it in, if you hadn't noticed those before.
 
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vickh

Active Member
Dec 16, 2018
3,770
922
az
Ah--I think I see something that you may be overlooking that could be causing you some trouble. See how on the black-faced receptacle it has two curved in parts around the outer ring on opposite sides? Your plug has two metal indentation parts that would need to line up with those to fit in. That might be part of the trouble trying to plug it in, if you hadn't noticed those before.

aahhh, I hadn't noticed those before, will line them up at insertion then twist.

Boy maybe I should search for youtube videos on how to use this plug!
 

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