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What Wh/mi are you getting with AWD and P cars?

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Be nice if folks could include Wheels, Wheels Driven, Cruising Speed and Average Temps.

Without that, your numbers could be horrible, average or amazing ;)

Good point. AC is off, I think, cabin temp at 68F, 18" aero wheel and stock MXM tires, ambient temp around 40s recently, and speed is 5 to 8 MPH above speed limit (55 to 65MPH). I set cruise and just take it easy.
 
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Here is what I’m getting with my daily commute. The peaks are the house.

View attachment 354393
Sorry.LR AWD, 18” aero wheels, nokian Hakka 9’s, 33 degrees (F), 40-45 mph, one stop light, mostly ice/snow covered roads, chill mode, Regen low, heat set to 68(F), leaving heated garage set to 55F, easy on the accelerator.

Even on dry roads I get better energy return going down my hill with Regen set to low then regular.
 
I have lifetime about 226 Wh/mi over about 300 miles, probably 70-80% city driving. Standard 18" Aero wheels, tires, etc. Max regen, Sport accel. I'm in SoCal so laugh all you want about it. In the morning when I leave it can be around 50s, and then peaks around mid-70s in the day. Warm air set at 76 in the morning, and don't really need anything other than taking in cool air in the afternoon.


Even on dry roads I get better energy return going down my hill with Regen set to low then regular.

Why/how? Is this true even regen on flat roads?
 
I have lifetime about 226 Wh/mi over about 300 miles, probably 70-80% city driving. Standard 18" Aero wheels, tires, etc. Max regen, Sport accel. I'm in SoCal so laugh all you want about it. In the morning when I leave it can be around 50s, and then peaks around mid-70s in the day. Warm air set at 76 in the morning, and don't really need anything other than taking in cool air in the afternoon.




Why/how? Is this true even regen on flat roads?
No just going down my hill, I’ve tested it. Going down my hill to Anchorage ~1000 vertical feet over 4-5 miles. With Regen set to low I just ride it down and it holds me at a steady 40-45 mph. With it set to normal I have to go back and forth between on the accelerator and off. I even tried cruse control set to 40 mph and I still get a larger “green trough” riding it down the hill on low.

Either way I set Regen to low 3 weeks ago. Other than experimenting I’ll leave it on low until the snow/ice melts off the roads most likely some time in May.
 
No just going down my hill, I’ve tested it. Going down my hill to Anchorage ~1000 vertical feet over 4-5 miles. With Regen set to low I just ride it down and it holds me at a steady 40-45 mph. With it set to normal I have to go back and forth between on the accelerator and off. I even tried cruse control set to 40 mph and I still get a larger “green trough” riding it down the hill on low.

Either way I set Regen to low 3 weeks ago. Other than experimenting I’ll leave it on low until the snow/ice melts off the roads most likely some time in May.

That is interesting. I have mostly flat roads over here and am using high regen for braking assist. When stopping, I can either let it gently coast to slow speed, meaning I slowly ease off the accelerator, or let it get closer and allow for near maximum regen. I do notice when coasting and easing off slowly it ends up keeping the regen bar short (but for longer time), but when allowing maximum regen it's longer (but less time). Although I haven't investigated in detail, it feels I retain more miles on the charge when letting it brake hard with the regen. So I wonder if max regen gets you more energy salvaging or if it means it just allows the car to brake harder.
 
That is interesting. I have mostly flat roads over here and am using high regen for braking assist. When stopping, I can either let it gently coast to slow speed, meaning I slowly ease off the accelerator, or let it get closer and allow for near maximum regen. I do notice when coasting and easing off slowly it ends up keeping the regen bar short (but for longer time), but when allowing maximum regen it's longer (but less time). Although I haven't investigated in detail, it feels I retain more miles on the charge when letting it brake hard with the regen. So I wonder if max regen gets you more energy salvaging or if it means it just allows the car to brake harder.
Before the snow fell I left it in Regen normal all the time and got more return. Going down my hill I think it’s just an isolated instance where I can ride all the way down with Regen “green” most of the 4-5 mile stretch On low.

upload_2018-11-20_18-28-40.jpeg
 
Minimize braking and regen to get the best efficiency. It'll also save your tires if you're always just coasting when slowing, and only the tire rolling resistance is slowing you down.

Difficult, very boring, and slow way to drive though.

Regen isn't magic; it wastes some of the recaptured energy (not to mention having to recapture energy means you spent energy that you "shouldn't have") - so not using regen (and not braking) is better than using regen.
 
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Minimize braking and regen to get the best efficiency. It'll also save your tires if you're always just coasting when slowing, and only the tire rolling resistance is slowing you down.

Difficult, very boring, and slow way to drive though.

Regen isn't magic; it wastes some of the recaptured energy (not to mention having to recapture energy means you spent energy that you "shouldn't have") - so not using regen (and not braking) is better than using regen.

That's a fair argument and one way of driving. But some regen is better than no regen with friction brakes only, no?
 
have a 2 week old M3 AWD. SO far 895 miles. Still always getting 330+ Wh/mi. I took a trip, 80 miles each way using Autopilot. Had a reported 305 Mi range and had to stop for charging before I got home (at least the car was complaining a lot telling me I would not make it). This worries me a lot as it is not even close. How can you have to supercharge on a 160mi round trip with 305 mile charge? It was moderately cold, ~50F, for this trip.
 
I have a 2 week old M3 AWD. SO far 895 miles. Still always getting 330+ Wh/mi. I took a trip, 80 miles each way using Autopilot. Had a reported 305 Mi range and had to stop for charging before I got home (at least the car was complaining a lot telling me I would not make it). This worries me a lot as it is not even close. How can you have to supercharge on a 160mi round trip with 305 mile charge? It was moderately cold, ~50F, for this trip.
 
Wondering if I have a bigger issue myself, but it's still early. I got Delivery 11/27 and it's been under 50 degrees most of the time (South Central PA)

Performance, AWD, 20" tires
80% highway (35 mile commute), averaging 70-75 mph
Charge to 85% daily
Tire pressure 38-41 (dips due to temperature)
Interior set to 68 degrees, Fan at 2.
Not using Chill Mode for most of it, but driving fairly conservative outside of highway when it comes to acceleration.

I'm getting 346 Wh/mi over ~475 Miles lifetime, which seems kind of high reading through all of this. I would think I could get 300-320
 
Wondering if I have a bigger issue myself, but it's still early. I got Delivery 11/27 and it's been under 50 degrees most of the time (South Central PA)

Performance, AWD, 20" tires
80% highway (35 mile commute), averaging 70-75 mph
Charge to 85% daily
Tire pressure 38-41 (dips due to temperature)
Interior set to 68 degrees, Fan at 2.
Not using Chill Mode for most of it, but driving fairly conservative outside of highway when it comes to acceleration.

I'm getting 346 Wh/mi over ~475 Miles lifetime, which seems kind of high reading through all of this. I would think I could get 300-320

I have the same car and wheels. Over ~3,000 miles, I'm getting 285 Whr/mi lifetime so far. I set the interior cabin heat to 65 or 66 usually, sometimes with the seat heater set to one bar. Tire pressure is 42 cold. I generally cruise at 68mph, passing at higher speeds to get out of the way. After 70mph, energy usage spikes a lot. To keep below 300 Whr/mi in the cold, you really need to keep below 70mph in my experience.
 
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I have the same car and wheels. Over ~3,000 miles, I'm getting 285 Whr/mi lifetime so far. I set the interior cabin heat to 65 or 66 usually, sometimes with the seat heater set to one bar. Tire pressure is 42 cold. I generally cruise at 68mph, passing at higher speeds to get out of the way. After 70mph, energy usage spikes a lot. To keep below 300 Whr/mi in the cold, you really need to keep below 70mph in my experience.

Thanks Wooloo! appreciate the quick response. I don't really use the heated seat past 1 bar myself, forgot to mention that.

I'll up the tire pressure change my driving habits and see if i get anything better. over the next week+
 
Wondering if I have a bigger issue myself, but it's still early. I got Delivery 11/27 and it's been under 50 degrees most of the time (South Central PA)

Performance, AWD, 20" tires
80% highway (35 mile commute), averaging 70-75 mph
Charge to 85% daily
Tire pressure 38-41 (dips due to temperature)
Interior set to 68 degrees, Fan at 2.
Not using Chill Mode for most of it, but driving fairly conservative outside of highway when it comes to acceleration.

I'm getting 346 Wh/mi over ~475 Miles lifetime, which seems kind of high reading through all of this. I would think I could get 300-320

Nothing wrong with your vehicle; this seems well within reason. The heater can use up to 10kW so it’s hurting you a lot. Experiment with a few trips with climate control off if you can without having fogging issues, and compare. Seat heaters are much less energy intensive so you can use those.

Other than that, with no/minimal climate control you should expect about 300Wh per mile for your vehicle; it has a range of about 250-270 miles best case. If you don’t drive over any hills you’ll do a little better (Hills hurt efficiency). I have about 300Wh/mi for the same vehicle over 600 miles. Could be a little better if I were more conservative with acceleration and trying to hypermile. I haven’t had to use climate control.

You may see some minuscule improvement as the tires break in and rolling resistance decreases.

If you want better: find an 18” wheel compatible with aero covers (or rig them up to fit - this is something people on this forum should discuss and figure out!) that fits the P3D+ calipers. Then put MXM4 tires on them. You’ll get 10+% better efficiency. Just the tires alone are the big change - aero covers aren’t going to matter as much. In winter in PA you don’t want to be running the PS4S anyway.