What's state of the art for washing a Model S at home and making it shine?

[Simon21]

I’ve never had luck with the spray and wash sealants, they’ve all spotted and I’ve then spent more time going over the whole car to remove the blotching than I would have if I had done a spray on sealant to begin with
The current best in my book is BeadMaker
A6: P&S Bead Maker Paint Protectant

How do you use it?

 

[Bobasaurus]

Two bucket method with Meguiars wash and wax every week or so. Wax every 6 to 8weeks with HD Poxy. If I notice any small scratches or swirls after about 6 months I use HD Speed on a DA to eliminate those. 2 years and 41000 miles later and still looks great on my dark blue 2014 S.

 

[immolated]

I've been taking my MS to a no touch wash for 3 years now. No issues, looks good as new and I get compliments all the time. "Harsh chemicals" is a myth.

 

[rainmaker7]

My Tesla is in the NOVA area (near Fairfax) so I can talk about local conditions. Many of the people using ONR are California residents where they deal with a lot of dust, not much rain, minimal road salt/winter crap and also have water restrictions.

First -- With regards to PPF film, I highly recommend American Shine Detailing (Northern VA's Detail Specialists | Ceramic Coating | PPF | Tint | Sterling VA). Call and talk to Brian (703-340-8640). He's got a phenomenal team including a PPF film guy who is a true artist. After a lot of back and forth and visiting four places in the area before I got my car, I settled on Brian. You can visit them any time and will likely see 2-3 Teslas in the shop along with some seriously high-end, exotic cars (last time I was there he also had a McLaren and a Aston Martin in the shop). Brian will walk you through all the options (film ceramic coating, etc.). Total cost was just north of $4K.

I walked in planning on front end film to protect from paint chips (I hate little chips in the hood and I keep cars for 8-10 years or longer). I ended up getting PPF over the entire car and a coating on top to protect everything (including the glass and wheels). Makes cleaning a breeze, water just beads up and flows right off during rain or a wash. I got the car in March 2017. In the Spring of 2018 and 2019 (last week) I take the car in for a full detail and treatment. Cost was $250/3 hours of time (i just sat in their office area in one of the big recliners and did work on my laptop). I consider this a full cleaning of the car to get rid of all the winter stuff that just tends to build up and get the car looking good for the next year.

Following the spring cleaning, here is my method (I live in a house with a garage and wash the car in the driveway):

- I have an electric pressure washer (one of the $99 deals, I just didn't have the need for a gas one even though they are better), and foam applicator cannon/gun. I use the Chemical guys citrus foam. Car gets a water coating with the washer (40 degree tip/lowest pressure nozzle) and then the foam and I let it sit for 2-3 minutes. While this is sitting I fill two 5 gallon buckets. One is just water and has a grit guard insert. The other is water with a capful of the Optimum car Wash (I think G4 is the wash but can't remember). I then wash all the wheels with a wheel cleaner foam tool on a stick. Always rinse in the rinse bucket to avoid grit in the soap bucket. I then hit car with the washer again to clear the foam. If the car wasn't too dirty (light wash), this is it and i now dry the car. If it was pretty dirty (say every 2-3 weeks) I next wash the car with the wash bucket...start at roof, then all windows, then hatch in back and the hood. Rinse car with regular hose, not pressure washer. Then I start on front quarter panel, wash my way all around the car going down to the line about 4 inches above the bottom of the doors (there is a natural ridge). I rinse the car after each side of car is done. Once I get nose cone done and rinsed (takes a bit to get all the soap out of the inserts around the louver). Next I go around the sides below the ridge and also do the area UNDER the car doors (a couple of inches) as well as the area under the back of the car (the black piece). I save these for last as they tend to be dirtier and have some road crap on them. Once all washed and rinsed, I proceed to drying. Use multiple soft drying towels. Start with front windshield, then roof, then back hatch. Then do hood, one side of car, around to back, other side of car, nose cone. Then pop frunk and open it. Dry the silver area around the "T", any water on the plastic pieces. I dry the outer part of the bottom of frunk lid where water collects working my way to back of the lid (near windshield). While drying that, I can also lift the wiper blades (you can't do this with the frunk closed) and clean them and the bottom of windshield). Once it's all done, close frunk. Go to rear hatch and open it. You'll discover that a LOT of water collects in the wells the rear brake lights sit in and drips out. Dry the outer part of the inside of the hatch as well as the part of the car body the hatch sits in. Check for the 4 rubber caps that cover the screws on each side of the back of the hatch underneath...they tend to come off. Once I have it as dry as can be and it has pretty much stopped dripping, I close the hatch and then catch any drips on the outside. Next I open each door, clean around the window, around the bottom and back of door and around the door jam. Finalize by applying HD-dress (no financial interest, just a great product) to the tires.

If it is winter and too cold to wash the car outside, I go to a self-serve pressure washer place about once a month and just use the pressure washer soap and wash to knock off the dirt and get the road dirt/salt off the car. I have thought about using the optimum no-rinse product in my garage and may try that next year. Just haven't tried it yet and my garage is pretty small making access to one side of the car impossible, so I'd have to wash one side, pull car out and then back it in to get the other.

I realize this is a long post but hopefully it's helpful. If you'd like to talk, drop me a DM and we'll exchange contact info. I'm actually in Virginia for the next two weeks before I head overseas again...

Just wanted to mention that the detail shop is one of two authorized installers (another is in Maryland near Owings Mills) for CQuartz Professional and CQuartz Finest carbon coating services.

 

[PhilDavid]

My Tesla is in the NOVA area (near Fairfax) so I can talk about local conditions. Many of the people using ONR are California residents where they deal with a lot of dust, not much rain, minimal road salt/winter crap and also have water restrictions.

First -- With regards to PPF film, I highly recommend American Shine Detailing (Northern VA's Detail Specialists | Ceramic Coating | PPF | Tint | Sterling VA). Call and talk to Brian (703-340-8640). He's got a phenomenal team including a PPF film guy who is a true artist. After a lot of back and forth and visiting four places in the area before I got my car, I settled on Brian. You can visit them any time and will likely see 2-3 Teslas in the shop along with some seriously high-end, exotic cars (last time I was there he also had a McLaren and a Aston Martin in the shop). Brian will walk you through all the options (film ceramic coating, etc.). Total cost was just north of $4K.

I walked in planning on front end film to protect from paint chips (I hate little chips in the hood and I keep cars for 8-10 years or longer). I ended up getting PPF over the entire car and a coating on top to protect everything (including the glass and wheels). Makes cleaning a breeze, water just beads up and flows right off during rain or a wash. I got the car in March 2017. In the Spring of 2018 and 2019 (last week) I take the car in for a full detail and treatment. Cost was $250/3 hours of time (i just sat in their office area in one of the big recliners and did work on my laptop). I consider this a full cleaning of the car to get rid of all the winter stuff that just tends to build up and get the car looking good for the next year.

Following the spring cleaning, here is my method (I live in a house with a garage and wash the car in the driveway):

- I have an electric pressure washer (one of the $99 deals, I just didn't have the need for a gas one even though they are better), and foam applicator cannon/gun. I use the Chemical guys citrus foam. Car gets a water coating with the washer (40 degree tip/lowest pressure nozzle) and then the foam and I let it sit for 2-3 minutes. While this is sitting I fill two 5 gallon buckets. One is just water and has a grit guard insert. The other is water with a capful of the Optimum car Wash (I think G4 is the wash but can't remember). I then wash all the wheels with a wheel cleaner foam tool on a stick. Always rinse in the rinse bucket to avoid grit in the soap bucket. I then hit car with the washer again to clear the foam. If the car wasn't too dirty (light wash), this is it and i now dry the car. If it was pretty dirty (say every 2-3 weeks) I next wash the car with the wash bucket...start at roof, then all windows, then hatch in back and the hood. Rinse car with regular hose, not pressure washer. Then I start on front quarter panel, wash my way all around the car going down to the line about 4 inches above the bottom of the doors (there is a natural ridge). I rinse the car after each side of car is done. Once I get nose cone done and rinsed (takes a bit to get all the soap out of the inserts around the louver). Next I go around the sides below the ridge and also do the area UNDER the car doors (a couple of inches) as well as the area under the back of the car (the black piece). I save these for last as they tend to be dirtier and have some road crap on them. Once all washed and rinsed, I proceed to drying. Use multiple soft drying towels. Start with front windshield, then roof, then back hatch. Then do hood, one side of car, around to back, other side of car, nose cone. Then pop frunk and open it. Dry the silver area around the "T", any water on the plastic pieces. I dry the outer part of the bottom of frunk lid where water collects working my way to back of the lid (near windshield). While drying that, I can also lift the wiper blades (you can't do this with the frunk closed) and clean them and the bottom of windshield). Once it's all done, close frunk. Go to rear hatch and open it. You'll discover that a LOT of water collects in the wells the rear brake lights sit in and drips out. Dry the outer part of the inside of the hatch as well as the part of the car body the hatch sits in. Check for the 4 rubber caps that cover the screws on each side of the back of the hatch underneath...they tend to come off. Once I have it as dry as can be and it has pretty much stopped dripping, I close the hatch and then catch any drips on the outside. Next I open each door, clean around the window, around the bottom and back of door and around the door jam. Finalize by applying HD-dress (no financial interest, just a great product) to the tires.

If it is winter and too cold to wash the car outside, I go to a self-serve pressure washer place about once a month and just use the pressure washer soap and wash to knock off the dirt and get the road dirt/salt off the car. I have thought about using the optimum no-rinse product in my garage and may try that next year. Just haven't tried it yet and my garage is pretty small making access to one side of the car impossible, so I'd have to wash one side, pull car out and then back it in to get the other.

I realize this is a long post but hopefully it's helpful. If you'd like to talk, drop me a DM and we'll exchange contact info. I'm actually in Virginia for the next two weeks before I head overseas again...

Thanks for the super detailed info! I'm going to be in the DC area for a project and I'm looking to get the car wrapped while I'm down there as I'll be working nonstop and won't be using the car much once I'm down there.

Like you, I'm initially thinking about just getting the front wrapped due to cost. Can you please confirm you were able to get the whole car wrapped PLUS have CQuartz applied for around $4K? My budget is around $2K but if you were able to get all that for around $4K, I'd be interested in having the whole car wrapped and coated around that price.

 

[drklain]

Pulled the receipt. It was just north of $5K, but that was two years ago. My guess is it would be more now, but still worth it (in my opinion). It is so nice to not have a single mark/scratch/chip in the paint anywhere...

 

[drklain]

I've been taking my MS to a no touch wash for 3 years now. No issues, looks good as new and I get compliments all the time. "Harsh chemicals" is a myth.

Harsh chemicals isn't my concern with a no touch car wash. My concerns are:

1. the pressure washers are indiscriminate in where they go and can hit things that really shouldn't be hit with high pressure water (the rear lights are one area).
2. no-touch also never gets the car totally clean (be it mud that was in the wheel wells or behind the tires or road salt from snow treatment (obviously not an issue in Las Vegas) and there is always some soap left in places like around the rear hatch glass. I also find that, once the car dries, some of the dirt/dust is still there.

I have no objection to using a no-touch car wash and know many people who do. I just don't think it does a spectacular job of washing a car. A poor-to-adequate job - yes. A good job - no. Of course that is just my opinion and obviously you are happy with the results you've had over the last three years so there is no reason for you to change!

 

[Scoobydoo]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a brushless car wash place in northern Virginia? I usually hand wash my X but its winter and I shut off all the external hoses.
I'd prefer to stay in Fairfax county.

 

[drklain]

There is a Brushless carwash (not a great one) at the Gas Station next to Sweetwater Tavern at 50 and Gallows Road. I do use it in the winter just to knock the dirt and road salt off....

 

[thebishop]

Ah, how wonderful when one gets over this and just run it in the normal car wash (rubber strips, not old style brushes). I did run touch less based on the fear put into me from the manual, then I got fed up.

No issues so far and not much alternatives with the salt slush crap we have for half a year. Still get compliments on how the car looks (5 years later...).

is a car a tool that should be used?
Yep.

Does it use high pressure prewash everywhere? Yep.

Does Tesla recommend it? Nope.

Does it make sense from a practical standpoint? Yep.

Should Tesla man up and not try to document out normal handling of their cars? Yep.

Does it work in practice?
you bet.

A car that can’t handle a modern auto wash really is a fail in my book.

 

[Jree]

Use Blue ONR (no wax) as I have ppf and ceramic ...spray onr on ..loosen duet with mitt and spray off with double chuck deionizer...don’t need to wipe as deionizer leaves no water spots

Is your PPF Xpel stealth?

 

[FatherTo1]

I used to do the two bucket method, and still do, but with a twist that I learned on this forum. Instead of a wash and rinse bucket, I have 15-16 separate microfiber towels (one for each panel or windows). This way, a dirty towel never re-touches the car. The used towel just goes into the second bucket. This process is a little faster too. I also use a foam gun (on a regular hose) and a leaf blower at the end.

Of course, all of this works much faster after I had ceramic coating done. The car stays cleaner longer. Also, whereas I used to dread rain mixing the dirt around, the ceramic coating makes things so slick that rain really does rinse the car clean of dust and dirt! Ceramic coating was expensive at $1200 but it saves me so much time maintaining the car.

 

[r1200gs4ok]

I just had my new MS PPF’d with Xpel Ultimate Plus......I also had Miyabi ceramic coating put on top of that and had ZiPang ceramic coating on all other exposed panels....The PPF was a full frontal application (full bumper, full hood, lights, full quarters panels, full rear bumper and backside of the mirrors.....I had my wife’s Model 3 done in July and what a difference.....good protection and very fast and easy to keep clean

I am looking for a foam gun but dont know which one to buy......have a small 1600psi power washer.....any suggestions on the foam gun and a good soap to get...thanks in advance

 

[Daniellane]

@r1200gs4ok
Both our Model S & Model 3 have full PPF (Suntek) & ceramic coating (Gyeon)
This one works for me...
Professional Snow Foam Cannon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1ZSSZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As for Chemicals:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can’t say enough good things about:
P&S Detailing Products C2501 - Bead Maker Paint Protectant (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779LMP2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nPNGEbDW4TS6X

After starting to use bead maker, I switched to:
P&S Detailing Products EC3101 - Pearl Auto Shampoo (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779M7PHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lONGEb7X5TE72

Not as thick as the Chemical Guys product. Seems less aggressive.

 

[SoCal Buzz]

I just had my new MS PPF’d with Xpel Ultimate Plus......I also had Miyabi ceramic coating put on top of that and had ZiPang ceramic coating on all other exposed panels....The PPF was a full frontal application (full bumper, full hood, lights, full quarters panels, full rear bumper and backside of the mirrors.....I had my wife’s Model 3 done in July and what a difference.....good protection and very fast and easy to keep clean

I am looking for a foam gun but dont know which one to buy......have a small 1600psi power washer.....any suggestions on the foam gun and a good soap to get...thanks in advance

Shift by Shine Supply is a very nice product.

Soap & Washing Essentials

 

[r1200gs4ok]

@r1200gs4ok
Both our Model S & Model 3 have full PPF (Suntek) & ceramic coating (Gyeon)
This one works for me...
Professional Snow Foam Cannon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1ZSSZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As for Chemicals:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can’t say enough good things about:
P&S Detailing Products C2501 - Bead Maker Paint Protectant (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779LMP2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nPNGEbDW4TS6X

After starting to use bead maker, I switched to:
P&S Detailing Products EC3101 - Pearl Auto Shampoo (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779M7PHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lONGEb7X5TE72

Not as thick as the Chemical Guys product. Seems less aggressive.

oh this is super....thanks for the information

do I have to change the orifice to a smaller one

 

[Daniellane]

oh this is super....thanks for the information

do I have to change the orifice to a smaller one

You should be able to just remove the quick release tip and it will snap on in its place assuming it’s a standard pressure washer.
I’m using a similar unit in this video I posted.
Tesla Car Wash !!!

 

[Naekuh]

Looking at the videos ONR is way too much work.

My car has 10yr CQuartz so its hydro phobic.
So much easier for me to use a pressure washer, with a bubble attachment, spray the car... wipe it with a sponge, and then rince it, followed by using a high powered electric blower, and just blow the water off.

But i do take it in for details once in a while for mostly interior stuff.

 

[Ole Capt]

I’ve ruined the ceramic coating on my hood using bug and tar remover. Doh! The coating on the rest of the car is great so I’ll probably just redo the hood myself. Thinking about using Chemical Guys Hyrdroslick ceramic wax

 

[Daniellane]

I moved away from a wash mitt to this sponge. Very soft... Rinses easily.
I throw it in a bucket with some microfiber towels in a snow foam solution. I use the microfiber towels for the more heavily soiled lower sections (rocker panels, lower portions of bumpers...) flipping, unfolding... small sections per each towel... no rinsing/reusing...

ESOTERIC Elite Car Wash Sponge